Yeah we hit this stumbling block the other day... its a pain trying to keep ABS, keep stock cable hand brake, and have hydro hand brake too. The problem with mounting extra callipers is that all of the solutions I've seen for this require you to remove the cable drum brake that is used for the stock handbrake. Currently trying to find out exactly why some of them need the drum brake removing and hopefully we can find a workaround then.

Could you use a pair of VW additional calipers as these have the cable actuated on the caliper. So, you'll leave the stock caliper/abs alone and add a mech handbrake and hydraulic handbrake to the additional VW calipers??

Funnily enough that's actually what my friend just suggested as he's got rid of the drums on his VW and replaced with just one calliper that does both normal brake line and cable operated for hand brake too. We'd still have to get some kind of custom mounting bracket made for it, but its looking like the best solution so far.

http://s12.postimg.org/qe3ti7a4t/Engine_Out1.jpg

Had a few minor issues getting the engine back in, ended up putting the exhaust manifold & turbo on and taking them off again 3 times... buts its almost there now. Just got to stick the air intake back on to the turbo and route a few hoses to the catch can, then we can fire her up and see what leaks..

Looking forward to reading your reports once you get it up and running on big boost. Do you wanna buy my brand new AVO stage 4 kit Chris??


I've had these engines in and out now a few times and have always found it best to remove the manifold if coming out from the top. Keep the engine on the hoist, hanging loosely a few mm off the mounts, then you can work all the studs of the manifold/heads/overpipe together.


Still, probably too late to give you this advice now!!

This thread has gone very quiet.. what's the latest Chris??

Spent the last couple of days putting everything back in place and then went to start it up today and found the immobiliser has kicked in cos the battery was disconnected for a few weeks while the engine was out. Ugh. Guess I'm gonna have to get it towed to Toyota

Um Chris, before you take it to Toyota, double check all your connections.


My road car had no battery or engine in it for over 8 months. In the meantime I reconnected a battery and played around with the wiring and fitted a new interior into it.


Once I refitted the engine it started with no issues. I don't think you have an immobiliser issue?


Does the starter button allow you to cycle through the three steps? Acc on - Ignition on - all off?

Just had a look at the 2 ground connections that go to the chassis and they're definitely both connected and look fine.

It is behaving differently today though...

Last night when we first connected the battery back to it the green key light would flash, the red padlock light would flash, the screen in the centre console would come on, but the car would not lock or unlock.

Today, after changing absolutely nothing, the car will lock and unlock (but when you lock it it just beeps repeatedly and doesn't stop), no green key light, still get red padlock light, screen in entertainment system won't come on at all. Pressing start/stop button with or without clutch depressed still does absolutely nothing.

I've put a charger on the battery and will leave it overnight and then try again in the morning.

Chris I've no idea what I'm talking about here but would your problem be anything to do with the glove box key pad, just an idea.

I saw that mentioned in another thread somewhere but I've never seen a keypad in my glovebox. Someone mentioned that its only certain models and certain regions that have that. Will double check tomorrow though

You will have a keypad in the glovebox Chris, it's stuck to the back wall of the glovebox and is about the 30mm x 60mm from memory.


This all sounds very strange, other than the fact you mentioned the battery had been off the car for a couple of weeks? They tend to go flat in a week or so when connected to the car, perhaps your battery has seen better days?

Battery is brand new (replaced by Toyota under warranty about 2 weeks before the engine came out) so I'm pretty sure its fine. I'll take a look at the keypad tomorrow, though not sure what I can actually do with it... will have a look at the owners manual and see what it says.

To be honest I'm leaning towards thinking we've just messed up some ground connection somehow. Seems odd that this happens right after we have disconnected and reconnected everything in the engine bay eh. Is there anything else other than the 2 ground cables that go from the underneath of the engine to the chassis (near the wheel arches on each side) that I can check? Someone mentioned the ground for the starter motor but they also said its pretty unlikely we could have messed that up (they obviously haven't met me!)

This is a low battery fault. My car does this when the battery gets very low. A buzzer in the boot starts going off until it goes pan flat. It's a high frequency buzz not a slow pulse.
These cars drain the battery fast if left connected and unlocked. I get 3-5 days out of mine sat in workshop normally.
Put a multimeter across battery.