The ECU can detect if the AVCS isn't functioning properly. There are a series of DTCs related to slow AVCS response, excessive advance, no response, etc.

I don't know the specifics of the flow volume or pressure drop when the solenoids are commanded to adjust the cams, but it's plausible that continuous actuation could starve a rod journal given the oil channel layout on the FA motors. Unlike the EJ motors where the crank was fed and then the heads, they are fed simultaneously on the FA.

so i have 2013 and there was a ECU update for what? i was never informed of this... what does it fix and do?

almost a month now and my car still at the dealer not being fixed under warranty.. same reason spun bearing rod 4 bone stock

If you have a FRS, then the dealer will update you to the latest ROM.

If you have a 2013 BRZ, the dealer will NOT give you the latest update.
They stop at a ROM that does not address the transient timing problem that blows DI seals.

I can look up the ROM IDs when I get home if you want specifics.

If you want to protect a 2013 from the blown DI seal issue, then you have to update the ROM yourself (or have a problem such that the dealer must updgrade the ECU, then you get the newer ROM)
I have no idea if there is a fix for "AVCS issues related to oil pressure".

That's why I do all my oil changes at the dealership, and check my levels weekly.

I know it will happen, I just don't know when.

My warranty claims were also easy, as my car is bone stock.

If you had two coil failures, that's likely related to the factory tuning, if you were having detonation issues or knock related to it them it could have helped aid in the bearing issue.

Just chiming in here that I had the exact same issue with my FR-S at 20,000~ish miles that ended up being a bearing on cylinder 4 (rod knock). Exact same sound as video and descriptions, ended up getting a replacement engine pull under warranty from a wrecked BRZ (102 miles).

I'm over 16,000 miles on the new engine with no issues, I did get the latest ECU updates after the engine swap as well.

Original engine gave no CEL's or warning, just started knocking.

yikes

Stock Motor is Toast (Spun Rod Bearing)
 

Is there any general consensus about what a tune does as far as engine warranty goes.

I'm sure if you had some turbo and a shit tune they would not honor the warranty. But I'm stock and have an OFT stage 1 tune, which if anything, makes the engine safer than some of the versions of the stock tune .

Wait, I thought coil failures were heat related, any more info on this?

So to my knowledge only the 13's having engine problems?

If you go in for an engine related failure and they look into your tune, chances are you'll have your claim denied. The general consensus is to flash back to stock before a claim. I feel good about having an OFT stg 1 tune with virtually 0 knock on 91 vs the stock tune.

It's heat related and was much more common on motors running the stock tune before the transient ignition table fix.

Hotter cylinder temps from detonation or knock events usually helped to kill coils. You might want to tag some track guys who were running stock cars for a while who had coil pack issues.

I don't see any good reason for coils to be failing, let alone two on a bone stock car. We don't and have not see too much of that on FI cars who make much more heat albeit proper tuning and ignition tables fixed.

We have had countless engine failures in SA, mainly in the coastal regions as apposed to the highveld which is at altitude...

I have a very good feeling that the lower altitude combined with out really weak fuel is the main cause of all the engine (bearing) failures that are being experienced here.
This is not to say that EVERY car is failing, as there are a number of higher millage 86's around...but your chances of failure running the stock tune is pretty high it seems.

Our highest octane fuel here at the pump is 95RON, which as I understand is worse the the 91 octane fuel at the pumps in he states. What gets to me is that Subaru and Toyota are selling these cars here, putting "95RON only" stickers OVER the "98RON only" ones from the factory. I actually pulled mine off to reveal the "98RON only" sticker.

I thankfully ran octane booster every tank since driving my car off the dealership floor, and then switched to a 95RON tune so that I could run without, safely.
All stock 86's/BRZ's I look at running the stock tune, usually have the IAM hover at around 0.35 :barf:

Toyota are supposedly looking into the issue...but we will see what comes of that.

Wow and I thought 91 oct was bad. On the 91 oct OFT tune my IAM was dropping to .8 at the lowest, and after pulling .35-1.76 degrees at certain points my IAM is solid at 1. I wish I knew what my IAM was on the stock tune but I'm guessing around .5. Good call on the tune, I bet your car feels way better despite having less timing.