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Short answer: No Long Answer: We recently had a car show in Montreal, the ETS student had their work there haha. I wish I could join their group to learn more about cars.. it is why I have so many question that may sound like I am trolling, however I am not. I am still learning about cars, taking few classes on the sides =p. The only reason I am on this forum, is because I have an FRS =p. I will send you witch University I'm in by PM. Thank you so much for the input :), I will check the link. Sorry for the whole confusion. |
The stuff I have from Group A is top quality stuff. I'd buy them if I were building an engine.
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Anyone else decide to give these a shot? Feedback? HP Levels?
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Not worth testing and finding out the hard way. Although anything seems better than factory toilet paper rods. Im going Pauter personally.
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Carrillo or bust.
No pun intended. |
we have a supercharged car on a set. no installation issues and zero problems so far. the car is not making a ton of power though
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Saving 1k just on the rods could be the difference between an engine build being good value for money or not. |
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I would have used them about a year ago but coulnt get my hands on them and went with BC I beam extremes. i dont see an issue with them at all...
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Isnt safe to say that *any* forged rod will be better than oem by far? Why all the worry?
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Yep built the motor with them but unfortunately it's still not running :sigh:
The wifey reckons after 3 years I need to get it happening but seems I'm building a custom laminova core for the Sprintex charger I only work on it when I get time or the inclination :lol: |
Worth noting that up to some level of boost, the greatest stresses on the rods are due to snap-through acceleration at top dead center between exhaust and intake strokes, not from power stroke. Increasing revs is way harder on rods than adding FI up to maybe 10 psi or so.
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