Subaru or Toyota drain plug?
 

I have a very strong feeling that its Subarus drain plug, but for those who have changed their oil (if any), do you know if its Toyotas drain plug, or the more likely Subaru?

My main reason for asking, I plan on buying a magnetic drain plug, and would be very disappointed to buy one for Subaru, only to find out it for some reason has Toyotas oil pan.

Subaru drain plug # 807016160, used on 2010 and up Outback/Legacy, 2012 Impreza, and BRZ. Uses gasket 803916010.

If this is correct, then the BRZ oil drain plug is a M16x1.5. Fumoto valves F-108 and F-108N should work as those are for the '10+ Outbacks.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Se...lts.asp?Cat=40

If thats the case then I'm guessing this M20xP1.25 from Greddy won't work :iono:

http://www.shopgreddy.com/accessorie...ug-subaru.html

Do you perchance know the torque spec. for the drain plug?

I'm pretty sure it's a Subaru drain plug. If you would like I'll order one on Monday and comepair it to the Toyota one see what the difference is. I know the dpg is completely different it uses a metal crush type that is slighty larger that a Toyota 12157-10010 normal Toyota engines use a 90430-12031 composite metal fiber type. So I'm guessing if it is at all close to a Toyota plug it's gonna be a differential drain or fill plug.

I'm pretty sure the thread is different from the Toyota and Subaru drain plugs. The thing with Greddy, is they say the Subaru plug fits "most", as well as Toyota. I may just call them and find out.

Tightening torque=42N·m { 428kgf·cm} {31.0ft·lbf}

Ok, did my oil the other day. The Fumoto valves for the new Outback and Impreza work (16mm thread). One note, however. I got one of the valves with the nipple to make oil changes even cleaner. Unfortunately, the end of the nipple is just flush with the skid pan. If I were to run over something I risk tearing the valve out of the oil pan. So for my next oil change I'm going to put in one without the hose nipple.

How reliable are those Fumoto valves?

I'm mostly concerned about the valve being sheared off because the skid pan doesn't cover the drain bolt.

The other concern with the quick drain valve is leaking.

I'm trying to decide between this and a magnetic drain plug.

I've had no leaking issues with any of the Fumoto valves I've used. They come with a composite gasket to seal against the oil pan. The internal valve is a ball valve, not a screw-type used in other quick drains. The opening level is positively secured in the closed position by a spring. So the level needs to be lifted and turned to open the valve. And if you race or are even more worried about it opening by accident, you can get a spring loaded clip that will go around the valve to keep the lever from even rising from the closed position unless the clip is removed.

If you get the valve without the nipple you don't have to worry about clearance issues. There would be about an inch of clearance between the bottom of the skid plate and the valve. So if you were to hit something hard enough to take out the valve, you've got other issues to worry about, like high-siding the entire car.

Draco-Rex - do you have a picture of the fumoto valve with a nipple being flush to the skid pad? I ordered one last week and I wonder if I should return it to get the one without the nipple

Why haven't I bought these ball valves since I've started driving??? Thanks guys!

I'm strongly considering the fumoto, but is there a major improvement in using a magnetic drain bolt? I don't mind some mess if it means a cleaner engine.