Clutch Switch Bypass
 

Hey guys,

Curious to see if anyone has bypassed their clutch in to start switch?

I haven't had a chance yet to go under the dash yet to see if it's a single plug connection with both the clutch safety switch & cruise control signal or if they're two separate connectors.

* I have no care for cruise control functions, and am doing this for the longevity of my engine, and have owned many factory cars without a css coming from Japan. Also, my car is RARELY parked in gear. I'll write that prior to people start attempting to flame because OMG YOU'RE CRAZY ITS THERE TO PREVENT US FROM BEING STOOPIIIIDDDD

Not sure on your question, but how will bypassing the switch improve the longevity of your engine?

Maybe OmarCG meant that this mod is intended to be use for the time he have his car, as it wouldn't do anything to improve the longevity of the car.
My .02 cents.

Happy new year :)

2jzgte w/a very aggressive clutch/pressure plate is prone to crank walking eventually due to normal (dry) start and excessive pressure on the crank.

Obviously your 2 cents aren't worth even that lol

Then I didn't understand what is your intention, but is you be so kind and explain :)

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho.../465008?page=1

Do some reading...

Now could you please refrain from making more useless post in this thread.

There is a button that is depressed when the clutch is out. This is tied to the gear indicator and CC. It's also adjustable along with the clutch pedal. Check here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8040

Good stuff... thx. Wondering if this is going to drive my dual ecu stepup crazy if i leave that depressed full time...@Drift&Drag

The easy way to bypass the clutch would be to use spades at the clutch switch itself (above the clutch pedal - blue connector). This will make the vehicle think the clutch is always engaged (although it isn't).

The proper way would be to use a relay that triggers the clutch switch with the key sense or accessory wire that would close the connection to the switch allowing the vehicle to start without the clutch being pressed.

Why not just throw another switch somewhere while leaving the factory one in place? It would be simple to throw it either in parallel or series with the factory one (depending on how the factory one is normally open or normally closed) and then all you would have to do is depress a switch vice the clutch pedal when you start. All factory switch operation would go unchanged.

Dude you are funny

What you are try to avoid is a small load at the transverse Bering and the center off the crankshaft, but it is so little load and with outstanding oils of this days :bonk: Anyway it would repeat at each clutch use...

Should be aware that high performance clutch make more pressure, but again not to be so worried; if that deep in the engine are your thoughts then you should worry about bearings ( Rod, main).

As for the instructional link Lol
Be serious about data that would use as reference :)

I just jumped the two pins in the clutch position switch with a wire. I can start without depressing the clutch, and I haven't noticed issues with anything else because of it. I haven't tried cruise control though, I never use it

There's no real issue other than the circuit being permanently closed and a slightly negligible increase on electrical load.

The proper way would be to use a relay in conjunction with the accessory or key sense, preferably accessory, wire at the ignition harness. The relay would trigger only when the key is in and you're trying to start the car otherwise the circuit would remain open (i.e. OEM).

1 solution is 5 mins, the other is about 10.

If depressing the clutch long enough to start it is going to hurt the engine, then so will shifting. You're far better off running a less aggressive clutch, or addressing the issue internally.

All that said, why not just wire up a different switch you can manually press instead of pushing in the clutch? Then you don't have to worry about what the ECU's will do thinking the clutch is constantly depressed.

Difference is far less lubrication across thrust/rod bearing surfaces when off/pressure applied vs. Running and surfaces being lubricated by the pickup. Again, this is about the bypass switch... don't expect to find a ton of jz knowledge/experience on the twin boards

If you're already spending enough for the swap, why not go with a twin disc clutch and avoid the issue altogether? Better drivability too.

Define "enough" for the swap. Because I have less into this swap than most stock block fa20 turbo builds. Also, only twin disc for my future par setup is 14 weeks lead time

What worries me is what will you do to trigger your launch control?

No concern for LC, I don't drag race ^_^

Works fine for me still. Nothing is different that I've noticed. It's been a few months