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FA20 Stock Capacity
So, after talking to a handful of different shops who have all worked closely with the FA20, I'm hearing some say that the FA20 can handle a max of about 330hp before internals start to go.
I'm sure everyone has their opinions and experiences, but what is the general consensus here? There are three main things I'm being told by shops who have worked with and tuned these themselves: * No more than 330 (one even said no more than 220) * No forced induction / Only go N/A with IHE * No E85 unless Stock The shop consensus is that these motors are blowing because of too much heat in the cylinders... Pistons are warping, etc. A couple say this is because of the 12.5:1 compression. So, the real question is... Unless you fully build the internals (which apparently can't handle any FI at all), what are the alternatives to making more than stock HP? (the shop that said 220 max said he replaces one FA20 a week) Is a swap really the only alternative to completely building the internals? |
No E85 unless Stock?
why? |
From what I have come to learn through reading others experiences, keeping from 280hp-300hp is your best bet for the stock engine to survive on pumpgas.
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Just curious.
If shops are saying dont go above 330hp and at the same time dont go forced induction how would anyone get above (or even to) 300 hp without going forced induction? |
If your going to eventually build the engine, dont listen to them. @woode can chime in at any time, but you also have to take into consideration how well they actually got to know the engine. Theres several members with more than 330whp on pump gas and still going strong thousands of miles later. But if you dont ever want to rebuild the engine, in the entire life span of the car, then yes stick to 300whp.
FI is fine, it all revolves around the tune, these shops havent seen this forum yet apparently... You, young padawan have alot of research and thread sifting to do. |
Lolz at don't go above 220whp
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I know a guy personally at 471whp on stock block. He ran it for about 9 months before pulling the engine because he wanted to turn up the boost safely. Redline daily. It's all about the tune!!! E85 is your friend.
I'd say 300whp or so on 93 is your ceiling on stock block. Run, don't walk, away from those shops. Find a different shop. |
I've found it hit or miss. Some cars make 450 plus and seem to take it, for how long, not sure. They usually do a built motor before the stock lets go. Then you have 250whp cars with conservative and safe tunes that chuck rods for some reason. It seems really hit or miss. I have seen 3 blown up at the shop. All had windows in the top of the block from rods/wrist pins letting go
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Sorry its pure speculation at this point. No one knows for sure. The engine is still to new. Not enough data. But if your going to boost your car, you need to have the mentality that when something breaks, I am going to re-build with better internals. Gotta pay to play! As other mentioned, pay the money for a proper install and solid tune.
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I don't know what you guys are all arguing about. This little engine can handle over 9,000 :P
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Tune issues or not, when you physically hold the rods/wrist pins from an fa20 in your hand you will wonder why you ever risked it lol. There is not much there at all
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Sorry, to clarify, the shop that said no E85 unless stock and no FI at all was the one that quoted 220 as the max.
Definitely understandable that it's really a toss up at the moment, but on all stock internals, all the other shops seem to be saying 300-330. I've been following this forum for quite some time (since it launched YEARS ago), but haven't become a member yet. I've seen all these other owners crank out 300 and run E85 without problems, so I was a bit confused. Just wanted to know if there was a consensus among the forum members. Seems to be around the 300 mark as well (without stronger internals). @spitfire481 Having mentioned you held them in your hands, what would have to be your educated guess? (not discounting everyone else, mind you) |
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