Stock MAF sensor screws size/pattern
 

Wasn't quite sure where to put this, so feel free to move it.

Anyway, I went back to stock intake, but somewhere in my move to cali, I lost the stock MAF sensor scews (my AEM intake used different screws).

Does anyone know the size and pattern of the stock ones? Kind of an emergency as my car is stuck on jacks at the moment since I don't want to start it without the MAF in.

Bumping this as i managed to lose one today and am not having luck finding the spec online. Anyone have the info handy?

Edit: Per dealership: Part is a 4x10 tapping screw. Subaru part # is SU00302920. This looks to also be a screw used in the door molding as well but they confirmed it was the same. Now just to find it somewhere as the dealership doesn't want to order $2 worth of screws that they would have to bring in from Cali.....

Wondering if you ever found one elsewhere? I lost one today as well and the dealer said the same thing :)

My own MAF adventure
 

Had an electrical fault with my sub for my stereo (shorted amp) which put 60A to the chassis for an extended amount of time. Ever since been throwing P0108 codes like a banshee and having all the typical problems with a messed MAF. Pretty sure my stereo issue smoked the MAF or severely damaged it.

Anyways best price on replacement I found was $112 plus like $16 for one week shipping to Canada in cdn funds. Toyota wanted 199 from Vancouver with almost same time wait and Subaru wanted 400. Same maf part between the twins yet one decides to mark up another 100% :thumbdown:

Rock auto unit is a Delphi and new not remanufactured.

Also while trying to clean it with sensor cleaner lost a screw and not sure if it's the same as stock since I am running an sbd350 turbo, but mine was using 3mm hex cap screws so a quick Amazon gets you a pretty cheap variety set of metric cap screws to solve lost screws for MAF, or at least I will see if that solves it next week when they arrive.

Hopefully new MAF ends the non stop bouncing in an out of P0108 as the ECU gets super confused and car drives like absolute garbage with such confusion. Then I can back to de-tuning and re-tuning for latest add of scg-1 boost controller

Not sure I have to do some primary fuel map adjustments to get maf voltage safeguards massaged. That's a last resort in Rom raider but if anyone is curious about that while searching MAF issues and are running boost Google speed freak garage on this and it could help you. I would strongly heed the warnings though cause not all of us are boosting to 13psi and willing to accept a rod going through the hood as a precursor to doing an LS swap.

:burnrubber:

Google says P0108 is the map sensor.

P0108 code
 

Indeed it is manifold pressure, but I attribute the code to most likely my boost solenoid pushing close to 11psi which may be at the limit of shiv's tune for my sbd turbo. There's a video from speedfreak garage showing how to get rid of such safeguards but it has some warnings from shiv that author mentioned as "not advised".

Gonna do some logs of my MAP voltage at idle vs wide open throttle, then if issues turn SCG off and see if issue still persists, revert to pre scg install tune with scg off and see if it still persists, and lastly hack my scg intermediate tune with Rom raider for massaging fail safes on map rather on max'ing them to 5V which is impossible.

If logs of map voltage are not as expected for idle or seem to chatter violently than will get a replacement, waiting to hear from Chris Riggs from sbd on where these can be obtained from sbd350 kit.

But the fact that my idle is hunting and also stalling as well as other typical indications of potential MAF issues and the fact that I have never cleaned it in four years of boost pushed me to just get a new one from rock auto for 130 CAD.

On a side note the Amazon cap screws work perfectly as a replacement for lost screw. 3mm x 10mm.

Can't you just go to home depot and get an M4x10 bolt??

Already tried the hardware store route, smallest they sell is 4mm

The screw required is 3mm.not sold in any box store. Again Amazon for the win on this. 20 bucks for a whole variety set of sizes in diameter and depth.

Did this and oft reveals map showing random jumps from 5 to 6 psi at idle to 37 which then ignition advance steps in to correct and bogs idle down to stall.

Only thing I don't understand is how manifold absolute pressure shows positive 5 psi or so at idle while boost from ecu is showing negative pressure for vaccum which is what one would expect and coincides with what my scg-1 boost controller reads and is calibrated for altitude at.

Can't explain that.

P0108 CODE endgame
 

Got my new omni 3 bar sensor to replace the old after my stereo electrical fault and after 4 logs all is well.

Worthy to note that I was still having a hunting idle from what I would guess the ecu trying to learn from the random jumps in map sensor voltage. Re flashed my latest tune and did a re-learn and all is well again.

So I definitely have a spare MAF sensor for no reason.... Whoops.

Now to get back to dialing in my scg-1 boost controller toget to 11psi as low as possible with no knock....