Originally Posted by Border7 (Post 1978380)

My question is.. I routinely clean my car and "detail" it with clay bars and do a wax fairly frequently. I use tons of detailing spray in-between washes and it seems like i am in my garage almost every night just making sure there are no bugs or tree sap on my car.

Anyway, I use all of these detailing methods and recently started using a rubbing compound with a foam applicator pad.

Will i see any major differences in the paint if i buy a orbital polisher and polish(s) as well as the other materials such as paint glazes and cutting paste and blah blah.

My paint has 2,500 miles on it so far and i can see some small imperfections here and there that the claybar cannot cure. I can only see them when i get the right ammount of light to hit it and what not.

TL;DR

Should i make the investment in these additional detailing products(Orbital polisher & accessories) is it worth it? and if so what do you guys suggest product wise?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by aegisdrgn (Post 1978464)

Fact: If you use a clay bar, you are putting scratches on your car (clay bar works by picking up contaminants, and then guess what, the contaminants are pulled along for the ride as you sweep the clay bar across your car, even with lots of detail spray/lubricants under the clay).

Fact: Any type of paint correction (polishing/rubbing compound) is taking clear coat off your car.

Fact: You only have so much clear coat before you hit the paint.

Solution: Wash and wax properly, regularly. Paint correction is to be done sparingly and infrequently (clay followed by polish). Use paint sealant to keep results of paint correction longer than just waxing. Most paint sealants allow you to put wax on top of it.

Originally Posted by Ec1990 (Post 1979030)

Using an orbital polisher will allow you to compound and polish your vehicle at a much greater efficiency than by hand and will yield better results. Examples of common dual action polishers are the Porter Cable 7424XP and Griot's Garage 6". These operate by constantly operating and rotating (hence their dual action abilities), this reduces heat build-up in any certain area thus making them extremely safe. Combined with polishes such as Menzerna FG400 and SF4000 or Meguiar's M105/M205 you can correct your paint leveling the clear coat to enhance the reflection and gloss of your paint. This can be enhanced further slightly by numerous paint sealants and/or waxes. In addition quality sealants and waxes help provide a sacrificial barrier which will assist in keeping that gloss for a longer period of time as your car faces the elements.

For introductory products such as the decontamination phase I would look into CarPro IronX to remove embedded iron that will not be removed by claying followed by claying it. I like the Nanoskin towel as it is much more durable than a clay bar, can be reused numerous times and is safer, in the event that you drop it on the ground you can simple rinse it clean instead of throwing it away. The fine grade will work. For polishing my recommendations are above depending on your paint condition, white can be difficult to pull swirls and scratches out.

It is also important to understand the differences in terms so you know what products to purchase. Compounds are heavy cutting liquids - akin to liquid sandpaper loosely - that level your clear coat evenly but can leave finer scratches behind. Polishes are used to refine by taking these finer scratches out of the paint. Here is an info graphic courtesy of Todd Helme at Bella Machina Detailing.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...psa5a187ef.jpg

Glazes on the other hand are created to help fill in the defects for a temporary time leveling out the surface giving an appearance of smoother paint. They have their uses but are not a long-term solution when paint correction can be completed safely.

There can be quite a bit to learn with auto detailing but it is extremely rewarding. If able I recommend finding someone local to you that can assist and teach you first hand.



It is very rare to cause actual scratches with a clay bar. While marring on the other hand is common especially on softer paints or using harsh clay is possible. Marring is a form of surface abrasion and not as severe as scratches. It is also common to notice more scratches and defects when claying since it's assisting in pulling glazes, waxes, and polishing oils off of the surface. When claying you are merely gliding the clay bar across the surface and there is no working it into the paint. Keeping optimal lubrication and kneading the clay multiple times throughout the process make it uncommon at best.

Originally Posted by Stay Fresh Car Care (Post 1979351)

Sir,

There is no spray chemical on the market that is going to remove contamination like claying does. I'm not sure why you think spraying chemicals on the paint surface will remove embedded dirt and grime. I guess because it changes color right? :lol:

Originally Posted by Ec1990 (Post 1979030)

I would look into CarPro IronX to remove embedded iron that will not be removed by claying followed by claying it.

Originally Posted by Ec1990 (Post 1979357)

I didn't say it would, I said you can use Iron X to complement claying which is why you would follow a process of iron decontamination with claying as shown below. It is not a substitute. Clay however focuses on contaminants above the paint surface but it may not remove all of it especially those iron particles embedded in it. Iron X won't remove dirt and grime, iron specifically. Is it as required or recommended as claying? Not at all, but to dismiss it entirely as a color changing chemical that does nothing is just incorrect.



If it doesn't work then why do detailers such as Mike Philips state clearly "Any corrosive substances like acid rain or contaminants containing iron including iron particles from things like brake dust and rail dust penetrate into the paint and cannot always be completely removed by washing or claying."

Not to mention it is also an extremely effective wheel cleaner.