I need help with Full Blown Turbo Kit
 

Hey, I am not an expert. I will take in advice at heart. I love reading and researching about car, so I might ask a lot of questions over and over again!



About me:
I am not familiar with all the acronyms so please if you use an acronym describe it :).
I drive the 2015 FRS BASE not the Series :). It was too expensive :)
I want easy clutch lol
I like the boost feeling

Thread update: 28 October, 2014


What I want:


I want around 270 - 300 whp on pump gas @ 91 Octane Rating. This is a daily driven car.


1. Fullblown Stage 1 Kit [Premium]
Consists of:
- FBM EL Turbo manifold
- Garrett GTX2867 with Tial V-band housing
- FBM Aluminum intercooler Piping with couplers
- FBM 3" V-band Downpipe
- FBM 550hp Cast Intercooler
- FBM Intake Pipe
- FBM Dump tube
- Tial 50mm BOV
- Tial 44mm Wastegate
- FBM 550cc injectors
- FBM 270LPH Pump
- FBM Dual slim fans
- All Hardware/oil lines and gaskets
- Welded Oil Pan
- FBM 7psi Basemap Tuned with Ecutek

2. Perrin SS 3" Cat-Back exhaust
To compensate air flow


3. Mishimoto Radiator + Hose
To compensate engine bay heat


4. Mishimoto Black Oil Cooler with TStat
To compensate oil heat going in the engine




Now for the questions:
1. What trim should the turbo be and why should it be this size?
Getting GTX28, but there are 3-4 different sizes unless FBM (Fullblown Motorsport) has it figured out.


2. Should I coat the header ceramic coating or wrap it with heat wrap?


3. FBM comes with a tune up, will there be another tune up necessary?
Doe the tune that comes enough to flash your ECU through the OBD. I never tunned up the car and obviously I will go to a motorsport garage to do it for me... But just for information. Should I get the car dyno and get another tune flashed?


4. 44mm Wastegate is good enough or should this be replaced by a blowoff valve. What's the benefit to this feature?


5. Dumptube is not recirculated, should I?


6. 7 PSI is enough, I will be running street and daily driven car. Short distances. I want the turbo from side fun as I am driving. 7PSI is good?


7. Clutch? Which Clutch should I get for a daily driven car. I don't want hassle. What is advantages of slipping and all? Be detailed. Opinion matters.


8. I am planning to change the breaks one day to brembo 4 pistons, but they are around 6000$ for the 4pcs. Should I upgrade my break pads and fluid?

You'll be at the limit of the stock clutch. I recommend a catch can to keep oil out of your intercooler. If you drive hard or live somewhere the temperature gets over 85* buy an oil cooler. I'd also buy their larger oil pan. You won't need a driveshaft or axles. Buy a wide band o2 sensor and ecutek anf get it dyno tuned. I would use the gtx2867r over the gtx30 for that power level. The gtx30 is more suited for 450+whp builds.I have the smaller gtx28 and make 450 no problem.

Get an OIL Cooler. BE prepared to deal with coolant issues as well. I suggest you go read some other threads. Its not a walk in the park. Oh yea get a real tune by a trusted tuner. Dyno tune is better but remote can be done. James @ HRI tuning does really good work.

Id get the oil cooler and minus well the rad as well. 300-400 dollars for a radiator thats 3 times the size of stock is some nice peace of mind. Also your going to want a clutch for sure.

If you dont have a overpipe/frontpipe both nameless and JDL sell 3inch versions

Sadly its not the radiator size but the amount of air. Go read other threads. I think people are finally figuring out what is really needed to keep a front mounted turbo cool

That I can agree with as well, im changing up some of the stuff in the front of my car for that reason.

If you plan to run 91 octance and aren't out for high hp numbers then the GTX3076R doesn't make much sense, it's overkill. IMO you'd be better off with a slightly smaller turbo like the GTX2867R which will even spool a tad quicker (300-400rpms.)

The only reason I'd personally go with the GTX30 turbo is if you were pushing for a far more higher HP number.

Also the additional money saved from the smaller turbo will help offset the cost for your supporting mods (clutch, rad, oil-cooler, ecutech, guages...ect)

Going with the GTX28
Oil cooler
and a catch can
Radiator and new hoses for it
I will also go with Perrin Catback 3"


I actually live in a cold area in Canada. I think it doesn't matter where you live, the oil cooler is recommended as the engine bay or transmission gets very hot especially with manuals added turbo. Correct me if I am wrong.
I will go with the gtx28

Fullblown comes with a tune, no? Though should I buy the cables and stuff?



Which clutch and yeah. Oil cooler and radiator sounds good.

Don't worry, I know its about the amount of air coming in. I know the physics theories.

Yeah going with gtx28

Full blown comes with a base tune which is essentially meant to be nothing more than a tune to make the car drivable until you can get it to a tuner.

Looks like you have it pretty well figured out to me. I still would buy the ACT 6 puck clutch again. No you don't need drive shaft or axle upgrades. I would definitely get a catch can. You can run on the street without the others.

Make sure you get an oil cooler with a t-stat so you dont over cool the oil

Canada has no knowned tunner or at least I know no one xD.

ACT clutch are actually affordable, but what is the difference between the 6 puck or 4 puck or all those clutch (research time LOL)

I have to get the t-stat? Which provider sales that.

Being in Canada isn't like being marooned on a deserted island, although during winter it may seem like it lol. There must be tuners in Montreal. Worst case LJ can remote tune it very well. If you don't plan to track it I'd get the oem forester oil cooler, and not arguing with tut but if you aren't going over 400whp I'd go with a good full face clutch not a puck style to give you a bit more streetability.

Most kits include them. I know the full-blown kit does :)