It will be turn key done,.....it already has been done by others....fully functioning OEM gauges....price to do a swap has so many variables its hard to determine at this point depending on how much you want or can do yourself and choices in components.....its just a matter of time before more options are out there / competitors kits and ecu/pmc integrations to make things talk to each other.....I'm betting in time this swap will become easier and much cheaper to do......The early adaptors like me are paving the way.

Plus side to swapping to a different engine is that you can sell the OEM power plant and drivetrain to help offset the overall cost. I wouldn't trust the FA20 in these cars with anything more than 300whp without completely building it.

And that's just the engine. Don't even get me started on the transmission, axles, or the rest of the drivetrain.

Understand about the variations. Just wanted to get a general idea on how close between a 400hp fully built fa20 turbo costs in comparison to a 400hp LSx conversion.

When looking into the 4 banger route, it's like $5k for a built "bottom" and a couple thousand more for reworked heads. Throw another $5k for the turbo kit itself and a few more thousands on misc stuff and you're sitting around the $15k mark on just motor and turbo alone! The weak gearbox is another can of worms and will take tons more money to get sorted if you want any sort of gearbox reliability. The Subaru shit seems like a crazy expensive trap with unknown reliability.

If a reliable 400hp LS conversion costs about the same or less than building a dodgy 400hp capable FA20, it will be the future for this car. As long as it doesn't diminish the incredible handling characteristics the car is acclaimed for.

My build isn't really secret but more just a lack on my part of spending any time on the forum to show it off.

Everything works in mine with the exception of ABS and traction control. Traction control I don't really care about but I am working on the ABS.

The car handles as far as I can tell the same as any of my previous setups in this chassis. Mine does retain the factory sway bar location/function although mine has always had Eibach sway bars. The learning curve for handling isn't really anything to do with what I consider minor weight increases but rather the 375ft/lbs. of torque right off idle. I corner balance all my setups anyway so the car maintains 50/50 cross weights.

Wish I woulda just done the swap right out of the gate. 400hp NA stock starting point and 500whp NA with heads, cam, intake manifold, and TB. Whats not to like? Boost down the road and its a total tire slayer (already is to be honest).

Please show it off....would like to see your set up and cross reference stuff....what your running as far as coil overs.....sway bars ...wheel and tire sizes.

reliability will have a lot to do with how aggressive the tuning is, if you try to squeeze every last hp of the engine reliability and drivability could be compromised so it comes to what are your goals for the car. For the car in the vid, there have been some hiccups, as it would when pushing the limits of a new platform

These are the reasons why I bought my FRS.