Do I have to run new speaker wire into doors?
 

I'm installing component speakers into the doors and dash of my new FR-S. I'm having a really hard time getting speaker cables through the boot. Can I just tap into the cable going into the door at the kick panel, cut off the part that plugs into the OEM speaker, and then connect that to the new speaker?

I'm sorry if this is a very basic question, I haven't installed an audio system in a car in years. I don't know if the OEM wiring can only handle the wattage from the stock amp.

Just look at the gauge of the OEM wiring and figure out if it's sufficient or not for your application.

Are you running the speakers off the OEM amp? if so, I'm pretty sure the OEM wiring can handle the OEM amp.

It takes a lot of time to do it, but it's doable. I pulled 12ga wire through both boots with a coat hanger, electrical tape, some Vaseline, and a whole lot of patience and swearing. Honestly I think that took the most time for the installation. I popped the boot off the door and car and compressed it together to make it a little easier to get the wire through. Just be careful as there isn't much room to work with and you have to get the boot back on afterwards, which can be a major PITA if you don't know how to do it.

You can probably get by with stock wiring but I would recommend running new. The boots can be a pain but I popped them out, ran the wire then hooked them back up. Made it easier. Its still fiddly though.

I am going to run a JBL amp to the Hertz Audio component speakers I'm installing, pushing 75 watts RMS to the door and tweeters.

I messed with the boot for about an hour yesterday, and got nowhere. Being able to use the OEM wiring would be a huge plus.

Just wanted to add my two cents ... I have not bought speakers yet myself but I'm sure i will since I find the stock audio to be pretty sorry especially the pathetic back speakers.

I'm personally concerned about the crossovers if your wiring new components to the factory wires you'll be using the factory crossover as well not quite sure that's optimum for your after market speakers. I've put off doing this myself as well because I'm certain I'll have to run new wires to utilize the new speaker specific crossovers.

Since there is a factory amp installed as well this opens a new can of worms. I think ill be rewiring each speaker to the new crossover and then bypassing it completely. You could possibly tie it back into the factory amp but not sure how good the results would be. Either way things start adding up quick $$$$ and get complicated when you head down the road of modifing a factory amped system.

Keep us posted Id be interested to hear your progress and good luck dude

:cheers:

I'm not using any factory equipment other than the wiring into the doors. I'm completely bypassing the factory amp, and running new cables to the tweeter in the dash. The speakers everywhere are being removed and replaced. I'm just disconnecting the back speakers and not worrying about those.

The speakers in the dash are in series with the tweeters up there. Big PITA. I installed all new speakers except the tweaters and never got around to putting in the crossovers.

What made things far better was proper sound dampening in the doors and quieting the rattle caused by the internals of the break light on the rear deck.

PM me if you have other questions about the dampening approaches.

All OEM speakers are being taken out. I would run new speaker wire to the tweeters, so I wouldn't be using the factory dash speakers at all.

pmj, I would agree with aznatama as well. Ultimately, yes you can and here's why (with research/sources). Also, if you have the time, money and might even consider putting some sound damper in the car why not pull some new wire? :)

Typical factory gauge is usually 18. 18 gauge wire can handle 75watts (RMS) @ 4 Ohms and higher (if using short distance like 15ft and below). If you are going to be running a 2 ohm load to each speaker, then you will need to upgrade your gauge for 75watts and up. Most professional car audio installers would usually run a larger gauge wire when doing a full system. It is more beneficial and you have less voltage/wattage loss. Also, aftermarket speaker wire can be shielded better from interference.

The source I am using to calculate the wires ability to handle a set amount of load is: http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/spe...rassistant.swf. I pulled this from the AVS forums. This calculator will show you if your wire is acceptable with the load, distance and resistance (ohms) on the system. Example: 10ft 18-gauge with a 4 ohm load will be able to deliver ~70 watts to that speaker.

Attachment 92315



Professional Example:
OEM Audio+ uses a 360watt DSP for 8 speakers @ 2ohms and utilizes the factory wiring. They are running 45watts RMS per channel @ 2ohms and the factory wire can handle this load no problem. Plus, I think the system sounds great.
Source: http://www.oemaudioplus.com/frs.html

Hope this helps your decision.

EDIT:

BTW, good choice on that because I believe the tweeter and front dash speakers run off the same two channels (not individual channels for each speaker). Just FYI.

No need to run new wires. I have focal Kevlar 4" comp in dash and hertz Mille 6.5in woofers in doors running off of an arc audio xdi805 with 80x4 for the speakers all with factory wires. Running new wires would not make any improvement.