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Southbend Clutch
A little backstory:
My goal has always been a DD that is driven like a maniac with trips to the track for fun. The first clutch was recommended by the tuner to match the increased HP. I have tried to make the car more "sporty" while maintaining the original spirit of the vehicle. I am FI on an AVO running a conservative tune that produces 275 WHP on 92 octane. Torque is currently running 218lb ft or so (but that is on a bad clutch - more later) I originally had a Competition Clutch Stage 3 Segmented Ceramic installed. It was so loud (Chatter) I had it removed and replaced the next day with another CC Stage 3 Segmented Ceramic that was much quieter. (Same clutch - much different noise) It was still loud, but it was livable. It chattered at idle with the AC on and off (especially when the clutch was warmed up) It grabbed horribly. At low RPMs and when on a hill, it was a bitch to engage causing the engine to shake so hard I thought the mounts would rip. It knocked my original OP against the frame. In short - I never really liked it. Also, the clutch pedal started getting stuck 1/2 way up occasionally. It stopped after a few random occurrences of this over a few days. So - I started doing my research. I spoke with people. I posted on here. I looked at Exedy, ACT, Clutchmaster, OS Giken, etc. I then stumbled upon the name Southbend Clutch. These are popular with other car brands. They have been making street clutches for 40 years. I called and spoke with one of their staff. He listened to my needs and said - "Yeah - you need one of our stage 3 clutches with a stage 2 flywheel". This was on a Friday afternoon. He was able to put a kit together and get it shipped that very day. The details: FJK1003FW-SS-TZ Stage 3 Endurance STAGE 3 ENDURANCE: Recommended for single mass flywheel (SMF) when original design is DMF to achieve optimal performance. This kit uses the same Race Engineered SFI approved pressure plate as stage 3 daily package. The disc is designed for the special needs of a vehicle with circuit racing in mind. Kevlar friction material is used for its unique static to dynamic ratios of friction co-efficients at high energy levels. This translates to a perfect transition from one gear to the next. Discs are assembled with only performance components and equipped with torsion springs functioning as a damper between engine and gearbox. Recommend usages are Rally, endurance race, clubsport, autocross, street and daily. Anyway - because it is carbon\kevlar - it has a break-in period which I am in the middle of. I haven't boosted the car and I have barely put it over 4K RPMs which is trying my patience. So far - this clutch is a night and day difference between the CC ceramic. It engages like butter. No jerks, hardly any chatter. No chatter at idle even with the AC on. When it does chatter - it is a much lower tone. This is because this setup is not light weight. I don't want a lightweight clutch - I want one that behaves on the street and can hold my torque. This clutch is rated at 450 lb/ft. As a side note - it turns out that the CC clutch may have had a bit of foreign material that contributed to the problems. It looks like in a rare set of circumstances, a pebble or other bit of road debris can make it up into the bell housing through a non-protected vent in the bell-housing. There were marks on the clutch assembly and plates. This may have accounted for the sticking. Whatever it was seems to have disintegrated. Also - the CC clutch was about done anyway. On the dyno, the car was hitting 210lb/ft of torque and flatlining while RPMs went up. Reason? Slippage. The surface was already trashed in 1500 miles. Do I drive it like a crazy man? Yes. I am often shifting near redline. Do I slip the clutch? Not much. I get the clutch up as fast as I can. So, I can't tell you what happened here. Maybe the debris caused this. There were hotspots on the surface, pocking, glassy material on the pucks. Who knows. I am hoping this new clutch will hold up to my driving style but at least I am happy going out the gate. I just wanted to drop a line on here to say how pleased I am so far and that I believe it is a clutch brand that should not be overlooked in our community. Thanks! PS: I also filled up with Pentosin MTF2 and that feels really good. |
Thanks for the review! I'll be in the market for a new clutch soon enough and was looking at both of these.
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Also, did you order direct from Southbend or a vendor?
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great write up
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Update - I gave this clutch a 750 mile break in. I didn't touch boost once. I drove it like a granny. I started going slowly back to "normal" driving habits. (Pretty much like a bat out of hell all the time). I am now at 850 and it is behaving perfectly. I am really pleased so far. Now, I guess I just get to see how it holds up under stress.
I ordered directly from SB. Might have been a "Dave" who handles import clutches. Minimal noise. It has what could be described as a little chatter in certain RPM ranges but no noise at idle - even with AC on. No jerky starts - even on stop/go uphill traffic. Couldn't be happier for the moment :) Oh - except that I have to go back to the tuner because I am hitting a boost limiter which really sucks the fun out of stomping the gas pedal down. |
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Any specific reason you went with the stage 2 flywheel? I am seriously considering a setup like yours because i daily drive mine in chicago traffic and I feel a 6 puck clutch would be a total bitch. |
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Currently run an ACT 6 puck with the HD pressure plate and love it. |
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Southbend is an amazing company, I have driven a few different platforms with their clutches and had one in my 300ZX. They will make you just about anything you could ask for if they don't already have it. When my stock clutch goes, they are the people I will be giving a call to.
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