Even with the wastegate wide open, you could still spool the turbo a little at WOT, especially being AVO (small turbo). Be careful..

You can still reach him on Facebook through HRI Tuning. I would consult with him before making any changes.

so you want to go through all this hassle because of some knock retard that is probably just noise?

There's nothing "wrong" with running around on an engine with the wastegate wide open, although there's no guarantee that it will make 0 boost under all circumstances. Any car with a vacuum or electric wastegate (BMWs for example) do this from the factory. Those valves are normally open and then are moved to a closed position.

It would have been good if you had a baseline dyno run to see where you car was at before the turbo kit.

Due to the wildy differing quality of gas across the country, within states, and from gas station to gas station, I've seen stock cars where the ecu has pulled power due to knock, which was due to the gas that it was running. So it's very likely that the knock was there before the turbo kit install. At those low of revs, the turbo kit has very little impact on the engine, if almost none.

There is a certain degree, a minor one, of knock the engine seems to live with. If the knock is enough to impact your IAM, then it's likely due to one or more factors.

1. Gas quality - cannot emphasize enough how important good gas is to this motor, FI or stock.

2. Tune - which can pretty much be disregarded, because there isn't much to tune at 1300-1500 rpms.

3. Mechanical factors - often overlooked. If any part of the exhaust is touching somewhere in the engine bay, on either the undertray or where it passes through the front subframe, it will rattle. Even if it's only a light rattle that you cannot hear, the two knock sensors on the motor are pretty sensitive, and they will pick it up as possible knock.

4. High ambient air temperatures - as good as any intercooler is, they cannot do too much cooling when you are sitting at a stoplight or stuck in traffic. Higher air intake temps will result, and this can cause some initial knock.

Agree with avo turbo world guy,

on stock tune the IAM initial value is set to O.7 most aftermarket tunes set the initial IAM to 1 ,

If you want the stock tune iam to 1 just set the initial iam to 1 in the stock tune table and flash that

These motors especially on stock tune will knock in 1500 to 3500 range on anything but the best fuel. at high load low rpm if you get on the throttle agressivly.

I rearly dont understand your logic :iono:

I'm in no way implying the tune or the turbo are causing the knock issue and it really wouldn't surprise me at all if the car did exactly same thing without them.. but I'd just like to know.

The tune is easy to revert, the turbo itself, eeh not so easy.

#3 I did recently notice a rub mark on the bottom of the header where it may be coming in contract with the under tray. I was previously always checking the downstream piping for contact with the frame.

#1 And I've seen it myself how a change from my normal gas station made some real improvement in the logs. That was a surprise.

Dude.. That is a freakin' awesome idea.

I always found lodging something strong in the inlet disabled the turbo. Similar to throwing a stick in someones bicycle spokes.

Trick number 2 for IAM

Vishnu Reset -Trick
Yes you can google it :-)

Basically it will Reset you IAM to 1 if it has dropped due previous knock events (assuming its not knocking at low/steady loads if so you have serious knock problems).

If you do 2 or 3 "vishnu reset" runs ie partial light (20% or so max) steady throttle runs from 2000-5000rpm or so in 2nd or preferably 3rd it will reset your IAM (assuming is not knocking at low/steady loads) if its less than 1. The gear is not really important its the partial steady throttle the longer the run the better. A slight uphill grade can be useful (or you can left foot brake). This works anytime to reset IAM back to 1 (assuming its not knocking at light load) it useful when your chasing knock in an area and want IAM back to 1 without an ECU reset (with initial IAM set to 1)

None of this sounds smart..you have a turbo, take it off.

Do you happen to know the DTC code that needs disabling because the OEM CAT and manifold are now gone?

mate you will have to think up a hard question :D

P0420 cat efficiency

FWIW
On the stock ROM that thing knocked in the sub 2500 rpm range just as much as any "tuned" ROM I've had. IAM started at 1 went as low as 0.73 while not in boost. And I didn't do anything to disable to turbo from making boost other than exercise self control with my right foot and keep an eye on the gauge.
So that's low rpm and very light load creating a lot of Fine knock correction.

I feel bad for making my tuner crazy. There are forces working against me. Time to check all the plumbing again.


Thanks for the tips.