Track Mods - Plan
 

Trying to decide where to go from here on modifying the car to be "better" and more reliable at the track. Here is the short list of what I have on the car so far:

Engine/Cooling
Stock

Brakes
Carbotech XP10/XP8
StopTech Braided Lines
Touge Factory Front Brake Duct Kit
KNS Titanium Brake Pad Shims
Porsche GT3 Lower Air Guides
GrimSpeed MC Brace
Motul RBF600

Suspension/Steering/Tires
Perrin Solid Steering Rack Mounts
Bridgestone RE-11A Tires (215/45/17)
Enkei RPF1 Wheels
-1.4* Front Camber


At this point, I'm not sure where I want to go next. Things in mind are brake ducting/cooling, oil cooler, and RSR Coilovers. I'd really like an oil cooler, but nervous about warranty issues should I run into a problem. I know there are a million swaybars and braces available, but I haven't seen any hard convincing data that they are worth my time. The RSR Coilovers seemed promising and designed exactly for what I'm interested in. I haven't seen any brake fade yet at tracks like Autobahn or Road America, but as I learn to drive harder/faster...I'd like to be on top of the brake setup and head off any potential issues.

I'm very particular about the parts I put on the car and try not to hurt the balance or put on unnecessary braces, sways, etc. Willing to discuss this if there is good information out there from more experienced folks.

What do you guys think?

I wouldn't worry about the SS brake lines. Also I would definitely use a separate set of pads/rotors and better pads (Raybestos ST43 or ST42 pads and Centric Premium blank rotors are good options) and add some sort of brake ducting.
Also what size of RPF1 are you planning to get? 17x9 +35mm is way to go since in future you may fit wider tires on to them

I'd recommend Speigler lines over Stoptech.

I'd also recommend the same brake pad compound front/rear.

The oil cooler won't affect warranty. If you're REALLY worried, use the OEM FA20DIT oil cooler. It's not enough, but it's far better than nothing.

Use Torque RT700 brake fluid
Use Yokohama Advan AD08R 225/45/17
Must have an oil cooler - recommend Jackson Racing

Recommend RaceSeng front top hat and SPL Pro rear LCA with eccentric lockout bolt

Contact CSG for a package deal, they know their sh#t

Use stock suspension - superior than 99% of the coilover out there

Use stock sway bars - perfectly balanced

No need brake cooling ducts

Not everyone is willing to commit to the pads we use... :paddle:

hey i use 999 mang.... still no need brake cooling ducts :bow:

I should clarify that the list above is what's already on the car. :)

Just looking to see what's best from this point forward. Sounds like brake ducting and oil cooling is the next step.

Oil cooler would be the next step I recommend.

Any particular setup? I've seen other threads with recommendations ranging from an OEM style sandwich plate to an independent cooler. Then there are the amount of rows. Car will stay N/A.

EDIT: Interested in the Jackson Racing cooler. I imagine installation is simple, since it uses factory mounting points.

1. Any kind of oil pressure drop?

2. Does it affect coolant temps at all being in front of radiator?

I really enjoy my RSR's (Sports-i). The I use 9 clicks up front and 6 in the rear, starting from full soft. Up to this point I have not adjusted camber. I will be adjusting to the 1.5 degrees camber soon (only two settings, 0 and -1.5). They have optional pillow-ball top hats for more camber adjustments if needed. However, I most likely won't be purchasing those.

Have you used them on the track? If so, what are your thoughts between stock track and RSR track experience.

Yes, 5 times so far. RSR USA let me test drive their FRS shop car to test the suspension before I purchased. I like companies that are willing to go out of their way to let you test their products. I like the simplicity and the urethane bushing are super comfortable and quiet. I have more grip on low/medium speed turns and with uneven payment no doubt. Not yet tested high speed turns on the track > 50mph. I will be on the big tracks a few times before the end of the year.

I never tracked with full stock - However I did one time with just Swift springs (BRZ). Huge difference with any adjustable coilovers. Daily driving is more comfortable in my opinion than when I had lowering springs.

We prefer the Jackson Racing setup as it uses the largest oil cooler core, and uses factory holes (no cutting/drilling). One difference is that it uses its own bracket to support the oil cooler.

Along with an oil cooler, would it be wise to install a catch can or air/oil separator? My other car is a supercharged V8 and it was essential to add a catch can due to excessive blow-by.


Is it still wise to have one on an N/A BRZ?

It won't hurt. It becomes highly recommended with boost, but boost changes the equation.

Thanks Mike. I'll consider the oil cooler as my next mod. Next track day is at Mid America Motorplex on the 29th, then Road America again in mid October. I'll monitor oil temps on the 29th and go from there.

Before I do the track day, I want to change the oil. I've taken it to a dealer before and now want to start doing it myself. What brand/type of oil would you guys recommend I switch to from the OEM oil? What weight? Car is a daily driver at the moment, used for autocross and 4-7 track days per year.

My philosophy on track mods is to fix issues that I've observed or are well known. The one thing that is an issue with our cars is the high oil temps (which I confirmed for myself). So, after addressing the usuals (tires, pads, brake fluid), I did the oil cooler. I went with the Perrin, but recommend Jackson Racing for its increased capacity.

I also did the OEM crash/camber bolts and highly recommend them.

I did brake cooling ducts only after I experienced fade. First try the Porsche brake scoops; $25 and an easy install and will likely be enough.

Motul 300V is what we use in our car. You'll want 5W30 since you track the car. Once you have an oil cooler, you should be safe with 0W20.

You'll have a slight reduction in MPG with the 5W30.

I bought those from my local dealer a couple months back. I plan on installing them and getting an alignment done before my next track day. I believe the idea was to just max out front camber with the bolts, getting maybe 1.5* of camber out of them. The rears have no adjustment available, right?


Which Porsche brake scoops? First time I've heard of using them.

you can also try my ghetto Brake ducting mod in my signature :) it seems to be working just fine for me (about 8 track days on the same rotor with the ducting 6 of them are FId)

Right, rears have no stock adjustment, but they gain camber under compression.

See the Brake Cooling Thread. Here is a post in that thread about the brake scoops: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=21

You will need to remove the dust shield or cut it to allow the air to reach the rotor.

Definitely looking in the right direction. I'm actually at NJMP with my BRZ today posting up here.

Cooling is going to be an issue, especially the oil.

JR Oil Cooler or Custom kit with a bit core.
Cosworth AOS
Koyo Aluminum Radiator

I'm currently running Eibach Prokit springs on stock dampers.
SPC Arms in rear to allow for more camber
Oil/Coolant gauge we like the P3 Cars vent gauge

MachV Awesome Wheels w/Continental Series 225-45-17 Takeoffs
Hawk HP+ Pads w/Togue Tuning Brake Ducts

Looking to do in the near future:
Oil Cooler
AST Coilovers
Sways/Endlinks
Full Exhaust w/tune

I can't stress the oil cooler enough, we are seeing crazy high temps on track with the stock setup.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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If I go ahead and put the crash bolts in now for the extra front camber, what are the immediate concerns? I may not be able to get an alignment done for another week.

If I put it in and move it all the way to adjust the camber, what else does it affect?

Is the alignment purely to verify that camber is equal each side, since nothing else is changing?

You push the top of the wheel as much as you can and lock down the bolt. That's maximum camber.

What you're doing is checking for toe. You'll want to make sure the toe setting is zero.

Ah, so it affects the toe adjustment as well. I understand toe in/out has a big affect on tire wear. Maybe I'll wait...

You'll be okay if it's for a couple weeks and not so long drives (more than 1k miles). I mean we installed our crash bolts at the track site and beat the crap out of the car for a couple weekends before going to the shop to get it aligned...1k miles laters... :D

Great, thanks. I'm putting the RPF1 wheels on tonight, and may just do these bolts while I'm at it. I've scheduled an alignment, but it's a week out.

What would you recommend I do to try and minimize the affects on Toe adjustment while installing these bolts? From what I've read, it doesn't seem like there is anything I can do as Toe is a separate adjustment.

Yes. Just push the top of the wheel and lock it down. Toe is a separate adjustment. Worry about that later. :)

I'm considering purchasing actual camber adjustment bolts to get a bit more camber. Some questions:

Do they actually provide a reasonable amount of camber? For example, the Whiteline kit is only advertised at 1.75*.

Is there a particular kit that you guys prefer, or recommend?

What is the max camber I should shoot for on a car that is still driven on the street?

IMO (as in I tried them) - skip the swaybars. No real noticeable benefit although I was technically a few ticks faster with them (within standard deviation though so inconclusive).

The RSR coil overs are good (I have some) but if you're going to be doing lots and lots of HPDEs I'd recommend putting the money into brakes and tires first, then going for something beefier and more adjustable in the coil over department such as RCE Tarmac 2s or similar.

Again, that's if you're going to be doing lots and lots of HPDEs.

Reasonable? That depends on what you want. You'll need camber plates for real adjustability.

We keep our car between -3 and -4 front, even for street use.

I'm trying to find out what kind of camber I can get out of the bolts. for example, if I can get 2-2.5....ill do it. if they'll give me only close to what I have now, theres no point.


What kind of camber can I get with just camber bolts and which kit is recommended?

Crash bolts only in the upper hole will get you about -1.5* max. To get more with only bolts you need:

- to slot the upper holes.
- use eccentric bolts in the bottom holes as well as crash bolts in the upper hole.

So, use the actual camber bolts in the bottom and keep the crash bolts in the top?


Not sure I want to go that route. In that case ill probably just get what I can out of the crash bolts and leave the camber alone until I get actual camber plates.

It depends on your ride height, but unless you're dropped a lot, you won't get what you truly need for the track.

Use it anyways in the meantime; it'll reduce outer shoulder wear.

Correct. A couple of people have done it.

Still wondering what camber I'll get with actual camber bolts vs crash bolts. Looking for a direct response on this so I can decide if its worth it to even get them over the crash bolts I already installed. I don't want to mix camber and crash bolts.


Camber bolts: What is the camber range they provide when used in the top hole?

Stock height? Maybe -1.3

oil cooler is highly recommend, even my car didn't have this right now. But I will install it when my new bumper is arrived

Bummer. I won't bother with them then. Thanks Mike!