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-   -   Vorshlag LSX kit (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71640)

RedFR-s 10-08-2016 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi (Post 2770514)
I've recently blown my boosted FA20 because of fuel starvation below 1/4 tank(drag racing ...LOL), the simplest fix imho is a FBM Walbro 485 In tank kit ( Or the new Radium which i did not get a chance to test) feeding a surge tank.

I'm glad I'm not the only one. I'm gunna try using the spare fuel pump to have 2 in tank pumps, seems like a pretty straight forward modification. My concern with the surge tank is where do you put it that conforms to race regulations?

cf6mech 10-09-2016 02:12 AM

I dont know.....maybe its just me, and or maybe my application doesnt apply but adding a surge tank adds complications and something else that could go wrong. Right now the dual pumps one on each side seems to be working, the only thing I would like to add is a fuel pressure gauge for the dash in case one goes out.

wutsaiu 10-09-2016 08:50 AM

Not sure how much power you guys making but I'm running stock pump with my LS3. Only had a problem once, it cut out when flooring it up a hill with 1/4 tank.

wparsons 10-09-2016 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wutsaiu (Post 2770979)
Not sure how much power you guys making but I'm running stock pump with my LS3. Only had a problem once, it cut out when flooring it up a hill with 1/4 tank.

The problems most are talking about is starvation from fuel being in the wrong side of the saddle tank when the fuel level is low. There's a tube to equalize the level side to side, but it can't flow enough for boosted or swapped cars, especially during heavy cornering.

SmsAlSuwaidi 10-10-2016 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wutsaiu (Post 2770979)
Not sure how much power you guys making but I'm running stock pump with my LS3. Only had a problem once, it cut out when flooring it up a hill with 1/4 tank.

somewhere around 600whp ( out of my fa20 )

cf6mech 10-10-2016 02:36 PM

The OEM set up is a Venturi syphon using stock fuel pump pressure to slowly draw fuel from the none pump side to fill bucket (which the pump sits in) on the driver side , once the fuel level gets to the point the saddle hump doesnt allow easy passage of fuel from side to side, generally 1/4 tank of gas is when you have issues. The syphoning rate was designed and works great using regular fuel at stock power levels and uses a syphon hose diameter im sure rated for stock power and demand.

Once you go FI or go E85 which requires a higher volume you will run into problems with the OEM design i.e. it wont syphon fast enough to maintain bucket level in spirited driving as in sustained long sweeping left hand turns at levels 1/4 tank and below....Some have even reported issues at stock power levels with wider stickier tires on track pulling higher lateral g forces, once again on long sweeping left turns.....the higher the demand/horsepower the worse the problem arises.....in my experiance simple adding a bigger pump doesnt fix the issue, even when I went from non-return to return system with the return line going to the bucket.....so you need a surge tank or what I did a pump in the non pumped passenger side.After doing a lot of research I found this to be a common issue on many other platforms with saddle tanks.

modernbeat 10-10-2016 05:22 PM

The fuel system is very similar to both the GD Subaru STi and E36 BMW systems.

All the solutions for those have some compromise, but are better than nothing. First make sure the issue really is not having fuel at the pump. With higher HP engines the stock pump can starve the engine. But most issues we see are caused by having the pickup exposed and having the pump suck air. Another issue is new smart fuel systems that pulse, or turn on and off the fuel pump, and are not compatible with modifications made the the engine or the new pump.

The solutions break down into a couple categories. The easiest is to try to make the scavenging more efficient on the pump side by fine tuning the pickup location, adding a better baffled box, or adding Hydromat to it. As an add-on you can make the fuel pump wiring a priority item and not controlled by the pump ecu. I'm not sure the FRS has issues like this, but the GD and GR Subarus I worked on did have issues.

Next up the scale of hassle is to delete the siphon plumbing and add a second lift pump to the dead side of the tank and have it flood the pressure pump pickup. You use a high volume, low pressure pump for this application. These are typically made for carbureted engines.

The most bomb proof and reliable fuel system is to run a multi pump setup with two lift pumps (one from each side of the tank) to a swirl pot with a pressure pump in it. This is the way we go with any dedicated track car that retains the stock tanks.

Here's a GD STi with a modified tank plate plumbed to a pressure pump in a swirl pot.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Vorshlag-...DSC_3072-M.jpg

Here's detail of the lift pump inside the tank.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Vorshlag-...DSC_2967-M.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Vorshlag-...DSC_2961-M.jpg

slicktop 10-11-2016 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi (Post 2770514)
I've recently blown my boosted FA20 because of fuel starvation below 1/4 tank(drag racing ...LOL), the simplest fix imho is a FBM Walbro 485 In tank kit ( Or the new Radium which i did not get a chance to test) feeding a surge tank.

Has Radium come out with the FRS dual intank pump setup already? I'm running a Radium surge tank with dual pumps. Last I heard (a few months ago) they were just starting R&D of the intank pumps.

C130NAV 10-11-2016 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi (Post 2771386)
somewhere around 600whp ( out of my fa20 )

What are you running to get that? My LS2 swap is running 435 WHP on a Mustang but its 100% NA

DustinS 10-13-2016 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C130NAV (Post 2772828)
What are you running to get that? My LS2 swap is running 435 WHP on a Mustang but its 100% NA

My guess is GTX3076.

On topic. Starting to get parts list and such together to see if I want to move along with Built FA20 or just swap to LS3. LS swap price comes out a little cheaper with the addition of being able to sell my current set-up. Excited to see Vorshlag getting a lot closer to getting things posted up for sale.

cf6mech 10-14-2016 04:53 AM

3 Attachment(s)
An addition to my build, Trackspec hood vents. It comes with blind pop rivets, a friend of mine and I decided to go with solid rivets for a cleaner look. The LS1 was generating a lot of heat this Texas summer and this was a much needed addition in my opinion.

cf6mech 10-14-2016 05:21 AM

2 Attachment(s)
I also added a front strut bar, I chose the Carbing as its not hinged, steal and I knew it would fit over the LS and clear the hood and vents. White looked horrible in my bay so I had it powder coated wrinkle black.

cf6mech 10-14-2016 05:40 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Messed up my front fender liners and decided the liners, at least the front part, were more trouble than they were worth, especially when removing the front bumper. Problem is , they add a little support to the fender at the corners, so I decided to do something about it so the front fender on the corners are not flopping in the breeze. I made and added these strut supports on each side to help support the fender. Shown is a drilled flat headed pin with safety, later switched to quick release ball pins.

wooly35 10-14-2016 08:42 PM

That hood vent looks awesome! Ill be looking into something like that next spring.


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