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ARP Wheel Studs
So just like most of you, I am getting sick of stripping the stock wheel studs just from working on my car. My back right wheel stud was stripped when I got my last tire rotation and balance, but the one stud that finally stripped already started to become difficult even before that. I don't use any power tools even though the shop did. They're just really cheap. So I'm looking to get an entire set of ARP wheel studs but my question I have is, can I use my Rays close ended lug nuts with these even if they are extended? I've got 18X9.5 +38 offset wheels, so I figure they won't extend out too far, but I want to make sure I don't have to get open ended lug nuts just because of the extended ones.
Anyone with the ARPS confirm they aren't stripping from just removing wheels on a consistent basis? Not too concerned with how they hold up on the track which they are meant for. I'm more concerned with the ability to remove my wheels without having to worry about stripping a bolt all the time. |
I think the safe bet is to just purchase some open ended lug nuts and not worry about it.
Someone on here will buy your current lug nuts. |
Without spacers, I think you'll need open ended lugs.
With the ARP studs and RPF1's (17x8 +45 if that matters for wheel thickness) I have about 1/4" of stud sticking out through the Muteki lugs I'm running, which are the long lugs. http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mute...black-417.html If you want better studs that aren't as long, Nismo sells 50mm long studs that fit perfectly. |
Ive run ARP studs on my MR2 and also my FRS. And never had any issues with stripping them. They are designed to be stronger than stock.
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How deep are those lugnuts? R40s barely cover the ARP studs: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/IMG_0088.jpg Some pics of stud length comparison in the DIY thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21563 |
I'm using Nismo studs and have no problems with my 32mm Leggdura close ended nuts with room to spare.
Actually instead of 1.25 studs why not just go with 1.5 studs as they're less likely to strip. |
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I've got similar wheel spec, 18X9 +40, and same as Dave ROR, my R40's open ended barely cover the stud. Get open ended ones. |
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Swapping to an entire new set of lugs and studs is probably a bit much right now, but I really need to do this in the future. Stripping the stock ones just because I want to work on brakes is a pita. Hard to pass up the cheap $5 one from Toyota and swap it in. Thanks for the DIY too btw @Dave-ROR. I ran into the "siezed" hub scenario and had to use bolts in the small holes to get the rotor off. Got that far only to realize the aftermarket stud I got from O'Reilys was too small on the base of it to where it just went directly in the hole and didn't need to be pressed. I really hate doing the rears. :( Washer method and hammer... the dirty way. Probably grabbing a ball joint separator so I don't look ghetto as hell beating on my hub with a great looking car. |
The factory studs are fine. I never had issues with them and had about 6 month's worth of on/off before I swapped out for ARPs. Most of the time they get stripped due to thread contamination.
Went ARP only because I sometimes run a 15mm spacer on my RE30 wheels. Even with a 15mm spacer I still needed an open-ended lug on the studs. As for ARP, no issues with using it. I swap wheels probably 4-5 times a month. -alex |
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I only went with 12x1.25 because I didn't order ahead and the store didn't have any open ended 12x1.5 lugs in stock. |
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Just run cheap open ended pepboys ones. That's what I did until I got the R40s for cheap. I think the steel ones were $20 at pepboys. I use the dirty way sometimes on my other cars, and did on the BRZ some but wanted to document the proper way :) |
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^^ Mine look VERY similar to that with 17x8+45 RPF1's, ARP studs and Muteki SR48 lugs, no spacers.
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