Winjet foglight switch problem/discussion
 

So, still working on completing the ricer lighting project.


the winjet foglight switch pictured below works great if you wire it as such:
Yellow to relay
Black directly to ground
Red Power


No issues.


If you instead do something like this:
Yellow to relay
Black to shared ground with LED lighting array
Red Power


then the switch offers a path to ground presumably thru the power wire when in the off state, causing the LED lighting array to stay partially powered.


I think I can resolve this issue by wiring a regular diode in line with the ground from the switch to the shared ground from the other lighting peripherals.


Comments/suggestions. As I currently do not have a diode handy my dash is now a total mess as I undid everything looking for a short to ground. The only thing I can think of at this point is the switch offers the path.

I'm thinking this one:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2036270


I figure 1 amp should be plenty to handle a button. unfortunately, the winjet doesn't really indicate its power specifications anywhere I have found yet.

So I guess everyone else knew this? Was I wrong to assume the switch wouldn't allow current to flow thru it backwards by having components in it to prevent that from happening? I know a simple rocker type switch would allow that, but this switch has a little board inside.

I can't win.
Diode corrected the reverse ground current issue. I have now discovered that the ground only controls the LED in with switch. If depressed the switch will connect power to the relay even if not grounded. I guess I need to connect my relay to the common ground too? then the switched LED and the relay itself will be ground controlled..


Edit:
just gutted the diode dynamics power relay from my car. It was in there good. anyways it seems like the one I was sent combined the ground for the signal and the actual power circuit. Yay, rewiring time!


Edit2:
good thing I got 2 diodes.. :) now I need the 2nd one on the new ground im running.


Edit3:
relay harness modified. TBH the guys at diode dynamics make a nice harness, was easy to modify too. Wired protection diode inline with relay ground.

Ever feel like your talking to yourself?

Anyways before reinstalling I think I may further modify the Diode Dynamics harness by installing a flyback Diode between the signal terminals.

[ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode"]Flyback diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]

anyone else ever build a ground controlled power relay circuit before? :iono:

For the Avid readers of what seems to be becoming my blog, the circuit appeared to function perfectly for a moment, then 3A fuse blew.
I get I = V/R, as this circuit worked perfectly before I fused it I figure the switch can handle greater than this amount? anyways, I'm rethinking my plan. The circuit was perfectly functional before with the exception that the damn switch would allow power if ungrounded. So all I really needed to change was add a circuit between the switch and relay that would only allow power to proceed if grounded. Now to proceed to figuring that gem out.


edit:
after some reading Im thinking what I need is a logic gate and a MOSFET to control the ground of the relay harness
Button will be Signal A
Dome light ground will be signal B


And I want this:
A|B|
0|0|0
1|0|1
0|1|0
1|1|0


not sure this is possible? the bottom two wouldn't be... need to figure out how logic gates react if you remove one of the signal sources.

So I get the distinct impression people either don't care our don't understand what I'm on about.
anyways, pressing on.
Attached is a updated layout scheme, minus resistors.
I think I need to get a measure of the current as it is now seen by the Dome light, I have found 5 V and 12 V stable AND gates, at various current levels.

A friend suggested I look into PNP transistors as a replacement for the AND gate, personally I think this make 'simplify' the circuit, but its more components I have to buy to make work.

Anyways, my current thinking:

I was just installing this kit but I'm having trouble finding where the red wire (power in) plugs into.

Any ideas?

Add a circuit
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ"]Amazon.com: Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit: Automotive[/ame]

Is what I used, and tap something like the heated seat circuit . get the mini fuse version, (not linked). You can get these at almost all auto parts stores.

Thanks for the response Chimera.

So I'm guessing the universal terminal doesn't fit anywhere under the wheel column eh? I got the complete fog light kit by winjet, including the switch. I got everything set up except for that plug.

Can you help me step by step how and where I would apply the circuit kit you provided me?

I initially thought I would have to cut the terminal end and tap the red wire to the ignition or something like that.

Thank you.

Got a question for you guys...


I was installing the Winjet fog's last weekend and the bezel doesn't want to stay in the bumper. If I get the top half in, the bottom half wants to pop out, and vice versa. I can get it to stay in, but if I lightly tap the bumper a few times it pops out. I've had the front bumper repainted about 4 months ago, but that can't be the reason... can it?


Also, where are you guys grounding it? Like the ground that's off the foglight? I didn't see anything that good to ground to that was within the given wire's length.

My fog lights are rgb lights, and grounded to the main engine bay ground. As far as the bezel goes, maybe the light housing isn't in as far as desirable?