Really enjoyed reading your build! I too use mine as a DD so reliable upgrades are paramount to me. Figured I'd share some of my own experiences and moding direction.

For me the 4.556 Cusco FD upgrade really woke the car up. Made each gear something like 11% faster. Adding the drive shaft into the mix ended up with a very enjoyable mod that was straight forward and improved both throttle response, but also obviously in gear acceleration. I'd look into updating the FD ratio and what gearing options are out there that would look to be a good fit for you.

Next I'm looking to add some Crawford power blocks. These can be installed without a tune, but seeing as you have OFT there should be a tune that incorporates them. Their effect is to move the entire power band down the RPM range. I've read they also fatten up the low end torque a little in addition. This is at the expense of a little top end if you install without a tune. Tune gets most of that top end back.

Finally I'm looking at a set of ACE EL headers. I've been following a few threads on those and hear they give not only really solid power gains, but also a fat slab of extra torque. As the headers will make the car louder I'll be leaving the rest of the exhaust stock to mitigate noise, drone and rasp.

As you may have gathered its an NA build. For reliability sake I just don't want any headaches. Then just look to chassis bracing and (in my case) some forged 17" wheels and better 215 or 225 tires.

Thanks for all this info. This mod is on a different level. How would the combo of the ACE EL header and 4.556 Cusco FD upgrade feel? Does this mean that my top speed will be lower for highway driving?

Very interested in this mod.

Ur rpm will go up by around 500, but the top speed for 6th is like impossible for our car to reach for the amount of horse power we have.(something like middle of 16x miles/24xkm?)

You can probabaly wait for the new diff on the 2017 model, those will come with 4.3.:bonk:

Here is the thread that convinced me to stay NA - http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27647

A cheaper alternative to Cusco would likely be a gear set from http://www.weirperformance.com/finaldrivegears.html

Give that thread a good read, but also bare in mind that if you go much higher than around 4.5/4.6 then you may need to also upgrade the LSD.

In my case, with the Cusco 4.556, it was literally a straight swap. The workshop even managed to safely remove and re-use the two original bearings. My local Subaru dealer was asking $250aud for each if I wanted to order them in >.<"

The most appealing thing to me was that its apparently a dealer fit option in Japan.

I also note mods as part of my Fuelly profile in my sig below where you will notice my own economy actually improved as higher gears became more viable in day to day city driving. For my A/T they were simply a better fit with sports mode, it's shift points and the speed zones I travel in.

How is the Weir Final Drive gear quality compared to Cusco? If it the performance is the same and no strange sounds it looks like a huge savings.

My local tuner is recommending that I go Open Flash Header 3 + Cusco Final Drive (or Weir) They said to stay away from FI if I want reliability as a DD.

Appreciate all your help

No experience with the Weir's, but my Cusco is apparently cut (helical) in a similar fashion to the oem one and so makes just about no extra sound while others can whine a little.

This mod is part of my planned N/A build because, yes as you say it is more reliable than going FI. Especially true on an engine that was not engineered from the factory to go FI.

Some more info from the Cusco site for you - http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/catalog/tr..._gear_set.html

I have Weir 4.88 and I had 4.67 Mfactory before. I would strongly suggest to go for anything else that Weir. I will buy legit oem or Cusco next time. Safe your money and go for the best quality, not low price.

Thanks that is good to know. If I hear any out of the ordinary sounds like a whine it would really bother me. I read that the Cusco part is actually a genuine Toyota part which is reassuring.

Mine Weir dont even fit 100%, so you hear whine all the time, above 190km/h it doesnt sound well. I had to change bearings after 3000km and I had many other problems. Stay away from Weir, buy Cusco/Toyota.

Open Flash Header 3 in Vancouver
 

Thinking about purchasing the OFH3 with overpipe...wondering if there is anyone in Vancouver with this setup and want to show off their build. Preferably with stock exhaust. Would love to hear how loud the OFH3 is, or if it just sounds loud in the videos.

Appreciate it....I'll buy you a coffee:cheers:

Well, I've decided to not get the supercharger because after calculating the costs, I could buy another car basically or use that $7,000 on a down payment on a family car once i start to have kids which I plan to do in about 1-3 years.

Also reliability is a big factor...I don't want to spend $7,000 and than run into issues and constantly have to put more and more money into a car.

So I've basically decided where my power mods will end.

Fujitsubo Authorize R Catback
Fujitsubo Dual Resonated Catless Front Pipe (Keeps same sound levels as stock FP)
Tanabe Overpipe
Apexi Drop in Filter
OFT Stage 1 tune

I still need to get the fp/op.

I'm happy with the way the car drives on stage 1 OFT and the nice thing, it's reliable and legal. Like I won't ever have issues with cops or emissions because the car will be quiet and not smell.

Even though I plan to remove to cat in the front pipe, I have already experienced a catless fp on a buddys BRZ and there is zero smell because the cat in the header is the main one.

I know for a fact the catless header is the best decision for gains since i have an OFT...but I don't want a loud car and I don't want smell which a catless header does in both cases.

The only quiet header option i know of which keeps the same sound level as stock is the Apexi header which comes with the catted front pipe but that setup will cost us Canadians, $3000.00CDN and yes it will be quiet, but will smell.

I don't daily this car, but i do drive it on weekends with my wife and want it to be a enjoyable experience for us both.

Anyways, hope this helps you in your decision making.

On the forum, most people keep telling me to go with a header instead of the fp/op...but I've come to terms with loving the way the car drives already and that fp/op will just be for improving the response of the car and giving it a little bit more power at the top end.

Based on dyno calculations, my setup (with everything i listed) would be around 220hp at the crank which was my goal anyways. So if I'm anywhere near that I'm happy.

+1

Exactly my 2 main reason of staying NA.

Reliability & cost haha

I've been having a great deal of fun around making mods that sort of round out the DD aspect of my own car. A simple drop in filter to start with, the FD ratio and lighter drive shaft sort of tightened up the drive line a little. Those mods nicely improved the throttle response. Some rudimentary bracing with the strut brace and TRD door stabilisers really both settled down the ride and cornering feel. Looking to how the car's character will change from the next few mods with a view to improve the DD nature and not screw it up with extra NVH.

Where did you place the switch for these?