i'm doing research for an axleback right now. since almost all axlebacks will make minimal gains, it comes down to the material/cost/durability/sound.

i'm leaning towards the nameless axleback because of the better quality material.

i'm guessing for big companies like greddy, they usually stick with using the cheapest stainless steel. i still need to do some more researching though, but nameless is definitely one of the ones i'm closely looking at.

I installed this axle-back last Tuesday. Great quality, easy to install, no leaks, and it sounds great on the outside of the car. However, it is much louder in the cabin than I expected it to be, especially between 2k & 3k rpm. I expected it to be this loud with a header and no cats, not with just an axle-back.

I did some dB measurements with sound meter that was placed in the center console.

Here are my results:

Idle with A/C off ~55 dB
Idle with A/C on ~62 dB
Cruise @ 60mph ~78 dB
Cruise @ 75mph ~85 dB
WOT ~100 dB

Back
http://s19.postimage.org/fevmvbvy7/IMG_0073.jpg

Front
http://s19.postimage.org/y5xk5hqin/IMG_0071.jpg

Stock
http://s19.postimage.org/iycz7e9a7/IMG_0080.jpg

Nameless Axleback Installed
http://s19.postimage.org/z0fids8zj/IMG_0085.jpg http://s19.postimage.org/cprndtbpb/IMG_0086.jpg

Stock exhaust weight = 26.2 lbs
Nameless Axleback = 18.4lbs
Savings = 7.8lbs

Here is a short comparison video I shot on the day of the install.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BJx-yfIym8"]2013 FRS/BRZ OEM exhaust vs. Nameless Axleback - YouTube[/ame]

Sounds very good!
can't wait to have mine!

cold idle in that video with the nameless part I am guessing? Mine is 100% silent at idle, even with the headers.
edit, so people aren't confused. These dB figures were done with the junk in the trunk emptied out, it loses 10dB with spare + tools + liner.

(see the drive vid to hear the actual in-cabin noise, with full trunk equipment)

Watching your vid..I'm thinking to myself...wow, the stock exhaust doesn't sound that bad at all! haha

Yea it sounds a bit better with 3k miles. :)

Yea, both idles were cold.

Mine is not silent at idle. I'll post another idle vid after my commute tonight, should be nice and warm by then.

From what I have seen/know it does sound good on the outside, but the inside noise is misleading. Example: I downshift on the highway to pass and the amount of noise I hear suggests it should be taking off like an F16, but it of course... isn't.

I also weighed everything, which I forgot to post. I added that to my results post.

Tainen, would you mind using a sound meter in your car and posting what you come up with?

I don't have a sound meter on hand.

Were you measuring A weight or B weight? I'd prefer B, it's generally more accurate and more widely used imo.

The downpipe I have from them uses a helmholtz resonator, which cuts out some of the noise at certain areas of the rev band. That's a +$40 option they will add if you put it in the notes or call them up.

Ah ok, some smartphones are just as accurate with an app.

Not sure what you mean by A or B.

I bought the combo. So I have the downpipe/overpipe without the resonator, which I have not installed.

I posted a question about the resonator in the downpipe/overpipe thread (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ight=resonator) after they did header testing. Some of us wanted a full exhaust without the excessive/annoying sound, just like you did. So I inquired on the forum about people that preordered the full system, if we would be given the option to get the resonator.

I was never contacted. Just emailed a tracking number via UPS weeks later. Now I know it's hard to keep up with forum responses, business, life, and I'm sure a ton of other things they have going on. So I haven't made any fuss about it. Either way, no resonator for me.

I will have to figure something out for it's DD uses. I'm honestly scared of how loud it will get. Perhaps I could get a midpipe with one or get this overpipe fitted with one.

A weight and B weight are just different ways of measuring sound volumes, they have different weighting algorithms is all. B is just more accurate/real world. :)

I'll see if I've got a phone app that'll work, for sure. (all the ones I've seen in the past are rediculously inaccurate compared to real dB meters)

Have you called them up? I'll see if I can get Jason or John to hop on this thread and talk to this a little bit.

For some reason I was thinking weight, literally, since I posted the weights. Those are A weighting. I was under the impression B weighting was worse.

I have tried calling Jason twice on his cell, but not to complain. We have been in touch via email. He knows about the sound readings, but not the resonator issue.

I reinstalled the spare tire, tools, mats, and associated foam pieces. These items provide significant sound dreading for this setup.

All I had in the back previously was the cloth covered particle board.

Results with spare;

Idle with A/C off ~52 dB
Idle with A/C on ~57 dB
Cruise @ 60mph ~70 dB
Cruise @ 75mph ~78 dB
WOT ~90 dB

Results w/o spare;

Idle with A/C off ~55 dB
Idle with A/C on ~62 dB
Cruise @ 60mph ~78 dB
Cruise @ 75mph ~85 dB
WOT ~100 dB


As you can see, it made quite a difference. I'm very pleased that my ears no longer hurt when I drive.

Whoa. I didnt' realize you didn't have the spare/floor/tools in the trunk. That makes a huge difference... incredible.

Hrm, interesting. I did a spare tire delete but added an amplifier rack. I wonder how it will affect my results.

Could always lay down a layer of dynamat in the trunk. Maybe even replace the plate above the mufflers with a dynamat plate.