Positive Camber In Front After Coilover Install
 

This is my first coilover set up so I am clueless when it comes to lowering cars but I believe negative camber occurs when lowering the car. Sorry if this is a very noob question but couldn't find any posts regarding positive camber from coilover installation which had me further concerned.

I had ST coilovers, RPF1 18x9.5 +38, and 255/35/18 tires installed today and noticed the front wheels poking out with positive camber.

Planning on getting an alignment next week but I just want to make sure an alignment will correct this issue and not caused by an installation issue.

I can take pictures of different angles if necessary.

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/a...0CB0BDD57A.jpg

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/a...06043995BB.jpg

Lowering the FRS/BRZ adds negative camber in the rear, but not in the front.

It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like you have 0* camber on the front if anything. Do the ST coilovers have slotted front struts?

I am not sure what angle is best to show the camber but just eyeballing it, it looks positive so I used a 90 degree metal bracket and can confirm it's positive.

No idea if the coilovers have slotted front struts though..

ST's are slotted up front, loosen the bolts and push the top of the knuckle in as far as you can before you tighten them back up.

ST coils front struts do have slotted on the top bolts.
Get 16mm camber bolts SPC 80260 if I still remember.
Push it in and lock it up and be happy.

Will the above just resolve the positive camber? I am more concerned about how much the wheels poke out. I do know that I have fairly wide wheels but pictures of similar setups shows no wheel poke.

It will solve the camber, and will make the top poke less WRT the fender, but wheels that wide and that offset will always poke some.

It will solve. I have the same setup 18x9.5 +38. Just go with max neg cambers.

Before I attempt to loosen the bolts, it's the 12mm bolts and not the 19mm bolts correct? Just loosen it up, push the coilover in and tighten?


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Attachment 85559 Should be the top bolt that connects to the spindle

Hope this helps

9.5 +38 is the reason for the poke, camber will make the tops poke less, but the center of the wheel will always maintain its current poke (and the camber will make the bottom half of the wheel poke more actually)


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Attachment 85560


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Thanks for everyone's help. Finally got a hold of a breaker bar and torque wrench and was able to push the knuckle back before tightening it and solved the poke and the positive camber