Stability control is not fully defeatable?
 

It appears that traction control is not actually fully defeatable in the BRZ. I switched from Toyo R888 to Toyo RR's (grippier tires) yesterday at Vir and on high speed/ high g corners, it was intervening. It especially cut in going up the esses, taking away throttle and applying the brake.

I have a dozen track days on the R888's and have played with the car enough to know that typically, with traction/ stability all off, you can do donuts all day long.
It seems that the added grip of Vir's new surface with these grippier tires are exceeding the g's that the ecu will allow.

Has anyone that's racing or who's running stickier tires like Hoosiers run into this? Anyone who can offer a solution or knows of a source that might be able to problem solve this?

Thanks and btw, the RR's are a nice step up from the R888's! Lots of grip :-)

Long story short: if you can turn on traction control by the buttons, you still have some type of traction control (even if the lights are turned on on the dash)

-alex

Even pedal dance won't completely eliminate all aids, you have to remove the abs fuse.

I was able to drift without any issues (plenty of manji/tankslappers on purpose) with the pedal dance only.

Never had to pull any fuses.

-alex

Jon Miller has a video from Roebling posted on here that features helmet cam view. The TC off lights are illuminated but the yellow stability light still blinks away in high G turns. He was running A6's at the time.

I blieve the pedal dance torns everything off except the ABS.

WIth the 5 second button push, EBD is still active.

I found that out at one of my recent track days.
The rear brake rotors were over 100 degrees centigrade cooler.

I essentially had to throw away a day and a half worth of data and start over.

D

Pedal dance :thumbsup:

With the 5-second press, your e-diff (and the other braking aids) is still on. Pretty sure that's what the source of the blinking traction light is. I run into this on A6's. Basically, so much grip (like the RRs) that I'm running out of travel and lifting the inside rear, so the e-diff kicks in. It only happened when I was on both factory sway bars, and only on throttle exit application. It actually introduces some exit oversteer for me until the roll relief from the slide sets the inside tire back down. Never had it with the stock front/disconnected rear or with stock rear/stiffer front. Rear end stays on the ground, problem (and big throttle exit oversteer) goes away.

For me, this is beneficial, without the e-diff, when one drive wheel is in the air, a Torsen becomes an open diff, which means no power reaching the tire that actually is in contact with the ground.

I've gotten the car into a couple of extended tank-slappers (and spun it) on the factory tires with the 5-second press. No intervention there. So, that's why I think it's something else happening - at least in mine and the OP's case.

E diff???

What is that?

Emergency

System applies brake to wheel off the ground to force the Torsen LSD to transfer power to wheel on the ground; Electronic Differential.

Nope, it's the electronic helper that applies brakes to a rear wheel if you get it in the air or totally unload it so that the mechanical diff doesn't behave like an open diff.