30,000 mile service (aka dealer trying to bend me over)
 

Air Filter - $21.95
Cabin Air Filter - $69.95
Brake Fluid Service - $99.95
Transmission Service - $200.00
Rear Diff Service - $120
Throttlebody/Induction Cleaning - $289.90

All of that + tax of course...

Actually what they're wanting to charge is: 889.90

Trying to state that some of fluids (in particular the differential) are "discolored".

They should have at least tried lubing me up first before giving me that cost. Obviously I can do some of those things on my own easily, but, obviously this all seems "off".

Edit (I had my iPad on me, so I should have played this for them):

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KqqRPvM_Sw"]"Fuck Me" - Eric Cartman "South Park" - YouTube[/ame]

You would shit yourself if you saw how much a 90k mile service cost for Toyota's and Lexus.

Those last 3 prices seem high, especially the last one. I am just about to hit 10k, hopefully someone who has already hit the 30k mark will tell you what they paid.

Air filter - $40 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/33-2300-High-Performance-Replacement-Filter/dp/B000CO80OW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404323271&sr=8-1&keywords=subaru+brz+air+filter"]link[/ame] - 5 minutes if you're handicapped (i.e. missing hands and shit).

Cabin filter - $35 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-2013-Subaru-Cabin-Microfilter/dp/B00939JDEI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1404323271&sr=8-6&keywords=subaru+brz+air+filter"]link[/ame] - 5 minutes if you're handicapped.

Brake fluid - $20 each (get 2) [ame="http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404323360&sr=8-1&keywords=dot+4+brake+fluid"]link[/ame] - 30 minutes.

Transmission and differential fluid - $80 link - 30 minutes.

Throttlebody cleaning - $0 because what the hell is this?

Totals to around $200 for parts. So they want $700 in labor? Tell them you'd rather learn to suck your own ****.

Or pay them. Whatever. It's your time/money.

Throttle bodies get dirty? On the inside? I thought that was only if you had other engine problems, you might get some oil in it.

Change your own filters and fluid. It really is quick and easy. Then go to the dealer and demand a refund for the money that they would have overcharged you if you had gotten service there.

Even if you had to buy all the tools necessary to complete the service, you'd still come in at least $500 under what the dealership wants. AND you have the added benefit of being able to use the tools on other projects/maintenance in the future.

Hell, throw in a nice low-profile rapid pump floor jack, jack stands, and a pair of ramps because why the hell not and you'll still come out cheaper than $900!

From what I gathered on the internet, it's $5 to do yourself
http://www.autorepairfacts.com/repai...vent-problems/
http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy/...le-bodies.html

Throttle body/induction cleaning is probably this: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-Engine-Maintenance-Kit/dp/B00AYXZJ5O"]Amazon.com: Genuine Subaru Engine Maintenance Kit: Automotive[/ame] - ~$20


They had been good up to this point, at least during the 2 years of free maintenance. Guess they're trying to get the "freebies" back in one swoop.

Actually I looked them in the eye and said "that pricing is offensive".

The air filter (Engine bay one) is like 10-15 dollars. This is easy to do.

The cabin air filter (The HVAC one) is like 10-15 dollars. I don't understand why they charge so much for this. It's SOOO easy to do. You can do this yourself.

Brake fluid service - 99 dollars is a pretty good deal at the dealer. But of course you can save money doing it yourself.

Transmission Service - Drain and fill....if you have a lift...this is easy to do...but going to an INDY shop is much much cheaper. Not worth doing at the dealer.

Rear diff service -- Same as trans service. Same recommendation.

Throttle bottle cleaning...now THIS IS THE BIGGEST SCAM EVER LOL. All they do is pour in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and spray your throttle body with some sort of cleaner. That's it. You SHOULDN'T ever need to do this.

You don't need a lift, just a jack, jack stands, and a drain pan. The drain plug on the transmission is near the bottom and the drain plug on the diff is on the bottom. The fill plugs are about halfway up on both. Use Motul 300 because it's awesome and the bottle has a flexible nozzle. It takes maybe 30 minutes to do both in your garage.

I can't believe people actually pay that kind of money to maintain their cars at a dealership, or anywhere.

The last time the dealer touched my car was when they still owned it, and I plan to keep it that way.

Dealers are so good at making money off unsuspecting people who don't know any better. Recently my father bought a used sequoia from a local toyota dealership and there was a 30k mile service receipt from the previous owner in the glove box.

I spent about 2 minutes deciphering the 4 pages and was in disbelief. They charged this poor woman 1000 bux. A 1000 bux to change the air filter, cabin filter, change the oil and filter, rotate the tires, and fill the fluid. No brakes, no transmission fluid, no diff fluid, ect.

If you looked at the service receipt it looked like everything was broken down by the specific service. All had a little box that said serviced. But if you looked closer there were special indicators that were not spelled out but rather coded. There was a breakdown of the codes on the last page. The most important codes were S for service and I for I inspected.
When just inspected they still charged the same as if they actually serviced it. A 1000 bux for maybe 200 bux worth of work. And 60 worth of parts if you did it yourself.

To those saying that cleaning the throttle body is useless, I have news for you. Junk from a 100% perfectly running engine builds up in there. It comes from the PCV and the slight amount of dust that makes it through the filter. Drive you car for 100k miles without doing it and then say its worthless. I'm surprised a MAF cleaning isn't in there somewhere.

That list is a very easy to do. Just document everything.

I agree. If the vehicle is in harsh environments or run up to high mileage, the throttle body could possibly be caked with residue. That can sometimes cause sticking of the butterfly valve and a quick lurch forward once the valve clears the gunk. The vehicle might even throw a code stating that the engine idle is not optimal due to the gunk. Removing the throttle body assembly and cleaning it is the right way to go if necessary.