Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Forced Induction (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=78)
-   -   Turbo Reliability VS Supercharger reliability (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68600)

jflogerzi 06-24-2014 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KGB (Post 1814241)
Unfortunately, where I live its pretty much all straight roads so dont really get the opportunity to enjoy the handling to its true potential. Maybe a road trip through the Rockies is in order

Then in my eye's sadly you bought the wrong car. Do you plan to track the car?

s2d4 06-24-2014 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KGB (Post 1814217)
everywhere that I read, people say that you dont need a lot of supporting mods for under 300hp and that it will be more reliable under that much power.

Sure, you are at limits of the stock clutch/fuel (unless delicious tuning) at that point, around 250 is a much better bet, pending on the right tuner still.

Other than that, reliability and supporting mods aside, my question was "how did you make the conclusion that you want 300hp?", sort of along the lines "Can utilise 100% of the 200hp?". Some people are just retarded since they don't gear down to the right gear for getting onto highways.

By the way, for someone not so inclined, the ESC may be suited since you'll be able to install it yourself and you may learn something about cars and tuning along the way, by following that thread. May as well start from the easiest setup first.

KGB 06-24-2014 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jflogerzi (Post 1814223)
I agree with the others. DD on normal roads is pretty boring but get this car on some nice curvy roads, its plenty fast. Best bang for your buck for power in NA is a header + a tune ecutek tune or OFT tune.


Do you by any chance know roughly the price with install for that?

and one more question. is there a way to go back NA if I need to fix something with the warrenty?

jflogerzi 06-24-2014 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KGB (Post 1814251)
Do you by any chance know roughly the price with install for that?

and one more question. is there a way to go back NA if I need to fix something with the warrenty?

Header install is very easy. I would recommend looking for someone locally to help you. Nothing you can't do with just hand tools, jack, and stands. Keep your stock header and you could put it back on but at that point your committing fraud... ECU tune is 100% reservable. Cost for a header install would be 1-2 hours of labor.

s2d4 06-24-2014 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KGB (Post 1814251)
Do you by any chance know roughly the price with install for that?

and one more question. is there a way to go back NA if I need to fix something with the warrenty?

$1015 for the header and tune if using OFH and OFT, an hour for install so maybe $100 max.

You are still NA, but yeah, I wouldn't try to scam warranty if you clearly had mods that may have induced the problem in the first place.

BRZPDX 06-24-2014 11:42 PM

As long as you are prepared for the worst, you will be fine. there are engine failures both NA and FI. go enjoy that cheese burger, your heart won't stop most likely. if you are in a eating competition, you probably need some supporting mods.

KGB 06-25-2014 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRZPDX (Post 1814275)
As long as you are prepared for the worst, you will be fine. there are engine failures both NA and FI. go enjoy that cheese burger, your heart won't stop most likely. if you are in a eating competition, you probably need some supporting mods.

hahaha famous last words...
yeah, you guys havent made it easy to decide. I think ill wait for a bit regardless of my decision as to which way im going to mod it. Save up some $ in the mean time

EAGLE5 06-25-2014 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KGB (Post 1814241)
Unfortunately, where I live its pretty much all straight roads so dont really get the opportunity to enjoy the handling to its true potential. Maybe a road trip through the Rockies is in order

Sorry to say, you probably bought the wrong car. Or you need to do lots of track days. Or you need to turbo the shit out the car. 15k later, you'll be sitting pretty. Talk to Full Blown or PTuning. Or you need to go to the race track often.

The compromises of the twins only make sense if you're turning often. Maybe you want a 135is?

mikepaul21 06-25-2014 01:39 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Spinning Sushi (Post 1812593)
I don't think forced induction is the route you want to take if you don't know much about how your car works imo.

But he just wants to be like Ricky Bobby

sshole 06-25-2014 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s2d4 (Post 1814180)
Yes, that's why people had issues with it, the bs claims. But you may get banned if you bring it up with them again so yeah.

Damnit, not again!

jsqui28 06-25-2014 08:42 AM

Turbo V Supercharger
 
In my opinion: if I was you, I would (and I will be too) go with a supercharger. Not a centrifugal supercharger or a "vortech" supercharger. Get a belt driven twin scroll supercharger. I think we can all agree that the thing that the FRS lacks most is torque. A supercharger is better in the low end versus a turbo. The added weight and location of the supercharger wouldnt affect the balance of the vehicle as much as a turbo would either. And since the FRS/BRZ's claim to fame is balance and cornering, why would you screw that up. That being said, if you're looking to go with 400+ hp and smoke mustang fanboys on the highway, you might think turbo. It has more potential for more power. Although, then you will have to change your whole cooling system (IE. radiator, hoses, thermostat, etc). But it all comes down to what your finish line goal is for your car. Then again, if you want to spend 6g's on a turbo, you might as well buy a 2JZ and swap it out. Motor will run you about 6500.

Turbowned 06-25-2014 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsimon7777 (Post 1813107)
The whole point you made has little to do with the supercharger vs turbo question other than, maybe, what is the preferred method of cooling, and what is offered in mainstream kits.

Yes, however what is offered in the mainstream kits is mostly self-contained superchargers and engine-oil fed turbochargers. Since the OP states he is not mechanically inclined, I don't see him fabricating his own S/C or turbo kit that deviates from this formula anytime soon; I reckon he'd go with a simple off-the-shelf kit. Hence why I said "generally speaking" so as to avoid backlash.

andrew20195 06-25-2014 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsqui28 (Post 1814784)
Then again, if you want to spend 6g's on a turbo, you might as well buy a 2JZ and swap it out. Motor will run you about 6500.

This statement is ridiculous. The labor and supporting parts to install a 2JZ in our cars will make it cost significantly more than any turbo kit.

King Tut 06-25-2014 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsqui28 (Post 1814784)
Then again, if you want to spend 6g's on a turbo, you might as well buy a 2JZ and swap it out. Motor will run you about 6500.

I am trying to figure out at what point this was moved to the forced induction forum. Very hard to tell, but my guess is that it was after this post. Interesting to see how the thread went in the wrong section with such knowledgeable posters making comments. My advice to the OP is that he is not ready for the responsibility of owning a forced induction BRZ/FR-S regardless of turbo or supercharger.


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