Also check out Kraftwerks kit, the C38 with a tune from delicious is and the most basic supporting mods is around 5K, over 300 whp around 400 on e85, but you'll need clutch with that. separate belt system so if a belt broke for what ever reason, your not stranded..

No. Measure the temperature of your exhaust manifold versus a pulley and also the IATs from both non intercooled and get back to me.

Get used to the power it has stock and learn to drive THAT fast, then consider if you just want to add a few more horses and get rid of the torque dip (headers and fp + tune w/ catback as optional) or whether you really do want to add about another 100 horses or more.

The car is ridiculously fun as is, and has enough power already for you to have more fun than is legally allowed already anyway. Learn how you can apply that power when you want, and you'll maximize your satisfaction per hp rather than just adding hp. ;)

Not to trash FI, as it IS fun. It's just that there's other things you should go for first before adding power to this platform.

Not to mention that in the FT-86 platform, you most often have increased hot parts surface area radiating into the engine bay with a turbo, and thus have increased heat management issues. Just ask the CSG guys with regards to tracking turbo'd FT-86's. It's a royal pain. The track guys seem to like either superchargers, or more often, just stay NA. Maintenance is much less of a headache. Turbos are possible, but there's a LOT of work that has to be done in order to regulate the massive increase in radiated heat that's going to happen. EGTs, even when the turbo isn't fully boosting, are still going to be UP b/c the turbine wheel is ALWAYS spinning, and the exhaust gases are VERY hot and radiating into the engine bay over an increased surface area. Not a good recipe unless you've seriously heat-proofed your build, and even then you're going to have issues sooner rather than later. Best idea for long term reliability would be to do some serious work on airflow in the engine bay to force cooler air in to forcibly displace the heated air. Vented hood, air dams, properly sealing the sides of the racing radiator against air flowing around it, etc.

For a street driven ONLY car, it's probably nowhere near as big an issue, but still... your reliability is not going to be as good as staying NA or going with SC.

Unless you want to go with the turbo kit (forgot the company) who has designed a rear-mount turbo for the 86. I think there's still heat issues, but not like there is with other kits. OR, go with STS's rear-mount turbo kit.

Well said SirBrass on both counts.

I am thinking of doing light mods to help fix that torque dip. What's out there? What's FP btw.

Yes, that's why people had issues with it, the bs claims. But you may get banned if you bring it up with them again so yeah.

Why? How did you come to this conclusion?

everywhere that I read, people say that you dont need a lot of supporting mods for under 300hp and that it will be more reliable under that much power.

and anything under I just dont think ill see much of a difference for that kind of money

I agree with the others. DD on normal roads is pretty boring but get this car on some nice curvy roads, its plenty fast. Best bang for your buck for power in NA is a header + a tune ecutek tune or OFT tune.

What will that give me in terms of power and does that void warrenty too?

Unfortunately, where I live its pretty much all straight roads so dont really get the opportunity to enjoy the handling to its true potential. Maybe a road trip through the Rockies is in order

Technically your warranty is voided. But power it should add about a peak of 20WHP and about the same WTQ. Best of all it will remove the TQ dip and the car will just pull smoothly to redline.