Need some help
 

I've installed the st coilovers and nothing else suspension wise yet. Went to get my alignment done and it's a bit off. I haven't gone and tuned my lowering yet, the rear is just a little lower than the front right now but it's drivable. I'm shooting for about a 1.5" drop in the rear and a 1" to 1.25" do in the front. I'm waiting to adjust more after I get adjustable tophats and lca's. I'm planning on new wheels soon. Enkei Kojin 18x8+45 in the front. and 18x9.5+45 in the rear. I want them to sit pretty flush. I haven't decided on tires yet. Any suggestions? I think I'm gonna go with the Raceseng tophats. Will they work with the st's? Been browsing around rear lower control arms. Looking at the Buddy Club, SPL, Stance, and Voodoo. Leaning towards SPL. Any suggestions? This is my daily driver right now till I get it paid off, but once I get a new one I'll be using it as my "It's a really nice day car." I do some spirited driving as well. I'm posting my before and after alignment specs. Still pretty new to all this. This is the first car that I've worked on to improve performance instead or fixing broken crap on old cars lol. Any advice is welcome, thanks.

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Something is not right in the front, positive camber is always the wrong direction. Are you using camber bolts or slotted struts? Still the factory tophats?

Other than the messed up front camber (and the upsidedown picture) the alignment looks OK.

When you change the ride heights you will need to re-align.

Whoops sorry about the pic. All I've done it's installed the st coilovers. I reused everything else from stock. I'm waiting to change the ride height until after I get some new adjustable tophats and rear lca's.

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Attachment 80561
Fixed the pic.

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Looks like ST coilovers have a slotted top hole in the front (two bolts, strut to hub). You need to loosen the bolts, push inwards at the top of the rotor in and re-tighten (while pushing).

According to the alignment sheet there is no positive camber. It's negative all around. I'm waiting to adjust the height once I get new tophats and rear lca's. I was just wondering if what I was considering would help me achieve what I was looking for. I will be getting a new alignment after that. I just didn't want to waste the time and money getting that done yet seeing as it's drivable in its current state.

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Oops. Sorry read that wrong, been a long day.

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You need adjustable rear toe arms AND rear LCA's to snug the rear up. Otherwise the stock toe arms are too short.

For the front, the whiteline front camber bolts OR the raceng top hats. The camber bolts are way cheaper but less adjustable.

IMHO, these adjustments are adjustments you may or may not ever tweak as alignment is affected and who wants to shell out another $100 every time?

Also, do a quick search and you'll find that no one recommends a staggered setup as it messes with the balance. 17x9 square is great and will accomplish your desired flush look.

So I need adjustable toe arms too? OK that makes sense. I'm leaning towards the top hats. Will 17x9 fit? Will they rub in the front? Would i need spacers?

17x9 +45 looks awesome and fits with coils. You can run 235-255 depending on how stretched you want it to look. You can confirm anything I'm saying on the "wheel fitment guide" on the forums. You won't need spacers. It will rub on full lock but so would 17x8 a little.
The stock toe arms don't allow for toe adjustment once you're lowered and have a little camber going.
I recommend you look up/ask about how much toe-in and camber you want based on how much tire wear vs performance you are willing to accept.

With minimal camber, 245 on 17x9 +45 will look fine. If you put a lot of camber, 17x9 +35 with 245 will look masterful.

You can put a 225 tire on a 17x9, but you will need a high performance tire or R-comp to fill it up nicely, otherwise stick to @michael_king 's suggestion.

2nd on the adjustable LCA's and toe arms. With you being that far out of alignment in the rear, if you want any chance of running excessive negative camber on the street you'll definitely need both!

You really don't. We've dialed the toe perfectly without toe arms. If you do need something that truly doesn't move, we highly recommend SPL Toe Arms with Eccentric Lockout. :thumbsup:

@CSG David how much do you guys do alignments for? Bc I'm on ST coils with SPL LCA's and my alignment guy couldn't...