Camber bolts: Max camber tricks
 

Hi all, I just installed SPC camber bolts up front (upper strut mounting hole), and going to set it to max negative camber on both sides - I've read about having a buddy shove the hub inward while tightening to get extra camber, but what about adjustment on ramps under load? I was thinking that loosening both bolts, mounting the tires and dropping the car so the front suspension is loaded would be an alternate way to force the top of the hub inward - am I correct on this? Anything to keep in mind? Should the car be under full load or should I support it partially with my jack? Also thought about using wood blocks on the ramps instead of mounting the wheels since it's a bit more difficult to tighten/torque the bolts from under the car - would it be safe to just slowly load the bottom of the hub by resting it on those blocks? Would appreciate any advice, thanks!

You'll never get at the bolts on the knuckle with the wheel on...

Honestly, do what you can with someone shoving it in as far as possible while you tighten it. In reality, even if you are able to squeeze and extra tenth of a degree out of it by doing something more, it's just not really going to make an appreciable difference.

My alignment guy was able to get -1.5 with OEM crash bolts at the front with the following method. Access to a four way post would be the best way to achieve max camber.

Drive the car up the ramp.
With the front wheels still on, loosen the two bolts on the knuckle.
Raise each side by the pinch welds with a floor jack.
Put a piece of 2x4 under the front tire. Make sure to put it towards the outside of the tire.
Lower the car. As the car is lowered, the wheel will push against the 2x4.
Torque down the two bolts on the knuckle. You probably won't be able to fit a torque wrench in there, so just blast it with an air gun.

Thanks guys! Yah I didn't give it a shot *yet* but had it up on ramps and it looked pretty tight, and a pain to lever to torque specs lying on my back. Don't have the luxury of air tools (maybe Santa is listening!) - I'll probably just taks was385's suggestion and resort to buying beers for a buddy to wrangle the hub. Just thought I'd put it out there in case I was missing some clever way for shadetree/amateur mechanic to squeeze out some negative camber :) :cheers:

I think another method, but not as effective, would be....

Jack up the car.
Remove the front wheels.
Tighten the rotor with the lug nuts.
Take a floor jack and try to push up the brake rotor. Careful not to bend any brake/suspension pieces.
Tighten the bolts on the knuckle.

Hmm I might give that a shot as well, although I'm a little wary of loading the rotor like that. Thanks!