Suggested Mods for a DD
 

Hey all,
I just picked up about a month ago an Ultramarine FRS. I am trying to figure out what to do modification wise...

I love the car but have these issues which are why I am debating getting something else:
-Looks purple in some light
-Slow in a straight line and in the torque crater

I really do want to love this car, but have those issues with it. Cosmetic ideas is for another page on here, but mechanical is my concern for this thread.

I just graduated college and have my own business, so cash is a bit tight. I am looking to get a reliable 25-50 HP here without dropping a ton of money right now. FI will be 1-3 years down the road I think, as I have my concerns about longevity. I am looking to get this car to be something an SUV or accord won't beat in a straight line. I am not some dumb teen trying to beat cars at a stop light, but like to have fun and plan on doing some sanctioned events. Also, this is my DD and I drive about 20k-30k a year and plan on keeping this for a while (5-10 years).

What I have gathered:
-Exhaust: 5-10hp, $400-$1000
-Intake (drop-in or cold air???): 5-10hp, $50-$400
-Headers (EL or UEL???): -5-7hp, $500-$1500
-Tune (very lost here, just posted another thread on it): 10-30hp, $300-$1000???

What is everyone's thought here if I am looking to keep it on the cheap? I am willing to spend the money, but do not want to waste it. Best bang for the buck is what I am looking for, while not being too cheap, keeping longevity, and warranty.

Thanks all!
Nate

Looking purple in certain light is a property of the color you chose.

Get a drop-in filter, UEL header w/o a cat, overpipe, and an OpenFlash Tuner. Flash to stage 2. More power, no torque dip.

Don't accords have around 280 hp? And some SUVs have v8's. If you want to beat that, get a supercharger.

Filter - $50
Header - $800
Overpipe - $300
OFT - $500

edit This is not the car to buy if you want to go fast in a straight line. That can be done for a lot cheaper with a mustang or camaro.

I found the UEL can't sap power though?

If I did a whole catback, wouldn't an overpipe be included?

Does OpenFlash void warranty?

As I said, I am planning FI down the road, but the comparison for Accords and SUV was just for fun. I am asking such a common question, that I had to add a bit of a troll comment in there :bonk:

Headers don't sap power. Especially not with a tune, which you should get if you're getting a header.

The order of exhaust goes header (with cat), overpipe, frontpipe (with cat and resonator), midpipe, muffler. The main restrictions are the oem header, the overpipe, and the two cats. The midpipe and muffler make sound, but not much else. A catback will only replace the midpipe and muffler.

Any kind of tune that isn't factory will give the dealer a reason to void your warranty on drivetrain parts. Have to pay to play. OFT is pretty safe though; I haven't heard of anyone blowing an engine with their OTS tunes.

Catbacks only include the midpipe, you still have to buy the front pipe and overpipe.

The overpipe is probably the last part of the exhaust to be upgraded, since it provides virtually no gain in HP. Header and front pipe provide the most gains.

Dude you do realize that modifying your car equates to immediate void to your car's warranty. With this said, for the most bang for the buck, I'd say get the Open Flash Header & Open Flash Tablet combo for around $1k ($1.2k specifically shipped). After doing that, work on suspension, wheels, and tires. Scratch that, work on suspension first! THEN work on your exhaust system. Save the cat back garbage till the end of your build- there's always time for a bit more volume but never enough money for handling and power.

Not true... I have front pipe and catback, and I still take my car for warranty work.

Unless the dealer can prove that the part you installed caused the failure, they can't void it.

Tangental question... Say you wanted to leave one cat in, so it doesn't stink too bad.

Which one would you leave in? Assuming the best bet would be to do a catless header but leave the front pipe cat (replace with HF cat)?

Sorry I have not seen this discussed specifically and sort of relates to the OP's question. :)

A header will give you the most power. EL if you want the most power, UEL if you want the sound/tone. I'd say a drop in filter would be better than a cold air. Cold airs are hard to tune and don't give much more power than a drop in, due to the efficiency of the stock air box location.

Openflash is alright, but if you want big gains go the ecutek route and get it tuned on a dyno. You should see around 25 whp and 25 wtq increase with a header and drop in filter. Any sort of aftermarket header will increase the sound of your car by a lot, so be weary combining a header with a catback. If you do, try get one that is on the quieter end like the Q300.

So It does seem UEL do sap power, but EL add?
So I should be looking at the overpipe and front pipe? It seems one says it helps, one says it doesn’t 
Can I delete a cat and still make emissions?
As for tune, it seems some are unable to be detected by dealers?
This is not true with warranty. Only if they can prove the part did it. As for the tune, the tuning thread stated some could not be seen. Suspension is fine for me right now, wheels will be soon, and tires once I get some more power  Do you have experience with the open flash?
How have these made your car feel?
2nd this question
So how much are you losing with UEL V EL? OR does a tune even them out? As for cold air, $300 for one is not terrible, but if there are really no real gains, its not worth it.
What exactly does the ecutek route entail.

You've bought the wrong car.

Really? :brokenheart:

I personally don't have any experience with the Open Flash Tablet or Headers. Just giving my two cents on the product 'cause 99% of the users has left very positive feedback on the product. I will probably buy their OFT+OFH combo within the next couple months (most likely this fall) though.

Both UEL and EL headers will give you gains possibly slightly more for catless either uel or el.

In general EL headers will produce slightly more top end power.

UEL headers generally produce better midrange but maybe slightly less top end than EL headers

But were not talking much here few hp either way

Namless EL headers appear to produce very good midrange

They all produce gains over stock.

Some people prefer UEL rumble (classic subaru sound) some prefer EL sound.

Open Flash Tablet, Ecutek , Tactrix/ecuflash/brzedit Romraider ect are devices and software to flash a tune to a car and modify tuning tables, the gains produced are reliative to the tuner not the device.

From what I have seen on Naturally Aspirated cars the results from various tuner's using any of these platforms is pretty close ie no one is getting substantially better results than anyone else.

Any of these platforms could be used on a dyno to modify the tuning tables in a ROM

Ecutek does have a few advantages over the others with map switching, custom maps, and now aparantly mods to traction control systems. These are not horsepower gains but additional features that some may whish to have.

If you going to go higher boost turbo then ecutek is probably the one to go with as at present they are the only ones capable of using sensor inputs to perform overboost failsafe ect and using aftwemarket wideband 02 inputs to directly interface with tables/mapping through custom maps.

OFT comes with various tunes for a selection of bolt on mods and E85 and now a supercharger and aparantly turbo in pipeline, but you need to use their particular FI kits or the standard bolt on mods they cater for to use the "free" tunes , unless you pay for custom tune or do it yourself.

Some platforms are more tuner orientated and may have better logging or software which speeds up the tuning process or may flash faster ect but on an NA car they are all producing similar end results.



Do your research pick the one that suits your budget, planned mods and good luck.