circuit versus drift suspension setup
 

Hi all, I don't have a BRZ yet, but it is the car that I am planning to get for my college graduation gift to myself. The reason why I'm even on the forums this early is because being a full time student, I can't really put the time in to learn about a new platform so I'm taking these two weeks that I have for summer vacation to learn as much as I can about suspension setups for circuit versus drift.

Coming from the honda community, suspension was really never something I delved in too much about. I had a rsx with BC BR coilovers and SPC rear camber kit and it did the job. The brz would be my first rwd car and I would hate to use it for a drag platform.

I'm pretty set on getting the kw v3's because I want something that is a great street setup but will also do the job at the track; perhaps, not like the 5-6k coilovers.

As for the top hats, I'm pretty attracted towards the raceseng cascams.

questions

1. Are the rear raceseng shock tops necessary for a car that would be 75% daily/street and less than 25% track?

2. How interchangeable are drift and circuit suspension setups in terms of just tweaking the coilovers and messing with the camber plate? I know there is more to it than that, but for simplicity's sake we'll keep it at that.

- I ask this because if the setups are going to vary too widely for someone who just want to do a little bit of both, then I may as well just pick one and run with it, instead of trying to do both.

Thanks for the help and I look forward to being contributing member in the future.

Circuit and drift are very similar. Both are about grip.

However, with so little power, the chassis is more suited to 300whp+ drifting.
So with stock power you have to intentionally dial grip out of the car.
Running rear dampers on full hard
Running overly stiff rear sway bar
Running very high rear tyre pressures (Ive run 60psi)
Running rear toe out
Or a combination

You can drift this car pretty decent with just a bigger rear sway, and increasing the rear tyre pressure.

As far as the alignment goes why is it that the rear is toe'd out? From the past 6 hours of reading it, it seems that many people did toe out for the front and toe in for the rear, unless this is a difference between drift and circuit.

Also, what is the reason for full stiff on the coilovers and even the rear sway?

Full stiff on rear coils means the car breaks traction easier

Over stiff sway bar overloads the tyre laterally, in other words, when you turn the car will want to come around.

Toe in on the back is favoured by most drifters, because most drifters have power. We don't. Toe in provides more drive in the slide, it will also only stay out as long as you are holding it out with your power. Toe out doesn the opposite. It hangs out longer, in a way its almost rear steering/crabbing, and wanting to stay out. We don't have power, so we don't need the extra drive. We also need all the help we can get the car to do large arc drifting, which is what more toe out is also giving you. I run zero rear toe. But when I offload the rear, it will toe out and initiate. Its pretty wild, but you have to get creative with 150whp and 1200kg. With more power, I would use rear toe in for sure.

Also, you'll find that forums are full of contradictory info, ESPECIALLY when it comes to drifting. Someone hangs their car out in 1st in the wet, and next thing they're a drifter. Probably how I'm coming across. You need to learn what different alignment settings do, and just try them for yourself so you know what to adjust, when and where.

Thank you so much

My previous experienced with an underpowered car (S13 w/ stock KA) for drifting is, it's all about alignment and chassis setup.

I always set up the car for track use, maybe for a lower-speed track, but the alignment settings match your driving style.

If you are starting out, set up for better steady-state cornering and sacrifice initial turn-in feel so you won't get a super twitchy car. If you are a good driver and have experience under your belt, set up the car for better initial turn-in and stiffer rear end.

And if you want to go down this route more seriously, consider getting a mechanical 1.5-way differential. 2-way is NOT needed and may cause more harm than good, and 2-way isn't ideal for most road race situations for the average driver.

-alex

I disagree about the 2 way. Several of us in Nz have the trd 2 way in our 86s, and they are fantastic for drifting.

I agree that a 2 way isn't ideal for most other forms of driving. Still useable, just not ideal.

This is one place where circuit and drift are different. A 2 way for drifting is best. But for circuit it makes hard trail braking pretty much impossible. A 1.5 or even a 1 is better for circuit.

I would love a diff that you could seperately adjust the accel and decel lock up ramping rates in the cabin. Thats the dream.

Winters quick change bro!

That's what I am saying... the OP wants both road race and drifting setups, and short of an adjustable diff or swapping them, both are a compromise.

2-way is fun but it's also a pain to drive when you have no idea how to side brake or lock up the rear end with brake bias.

1.5 is plenty good for the beginner/novice.

-alex

Edit:
1.5 is good for both styles of driving
2 is mostly good for drifting, and not so good for road race

thank you guys for the information