Is this safe?
 

I had to send one of my rear KW V3's back to KW to be repaired so while I'm waiting for that to get shipped back I swapped the OEM rear coilovers back on and left my V3's installed up front. With the Power by Max rear lower control arms the OEM rear height is actually the same as my fronts, if not a bit lower. Which is good because I thought I was going to have some severe rake with the drop in the front and OEM in the back.

http://i60.tinypic.com/2myn2pw.jpg

The only problem I had while swapping out the suspension was tightening my sway bar endlink on one side of the sway bar.
I have the adjustable whiteline endlinks and for some reason there is no allen key in the center of the bolt like there is on the OEM endlinks to keep the bolt from spinning as you tighten the nut around it. There is a small nut behind it that I assume they want you to grip while you tighten it, but I can't seem to fit a wrench in there to grip it. Maybe this is a better job for an impact wrench?

http://i61.tinypic.com/2j0kozs.jpg

But everything else in the suspension got torqued down to spec so that's the only loose connection. When I took it for a quick drive around the block I didn't hear any rattling or strange noises.

You guys got any tips on tightening the whiteline swaybar endlinks? If not, do you think it is safe to drive short distances (like 5-10 minutes to and from work) with the swaybar not tight on one side in the meantime, while I wait a couple weeks for my coilover to be shipped back?

Thanks

Don't ever tighten a nut with an impact wrench! If its cross-threaded or otherwise not lined up right, you will fuck the nut, the bolt, your day, and everything else straight to hell.

Not safe as you're going to ruin the threads on that endlink.


There's tons of ways to get in there with a wrench, buy some stubbies.

Just ask yourself

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...q6BOPaS0#t=181

You'd be better off tightening it with an impact gun..just not too tight. just a quick zap.

You would be better off removing the droplinks entirely than to drive with it like that.
The car is safe with no sway bar as long as you drive conservatively.

From the pics it looks like you need a crow's foot, or cut the end off of an open end and weld it to something to reach in there.

You are also likely just fighting the plastic insert since that is a nylon aircraft locknut.
You could grab the threads carefully with some needle nose visegrips to get the nut further down, then grab the bolt on the other side of the nut.

Okay, I'll lift it again tomorrow and see if my brother and I can get it tightened. An extra pair of hands should make it much easier.

Thanks for the advice