Amsoil Oils Complete Change
 

Ive run both Toyota and Subaru 0w20 oils (canada)
During break-in @ 4000km i burned .7 quart of OEM break-in oil
Toyota oil was allright turned really dark after only 3700km

Amsoil 0w20 Signature is Great! i love this oil 1100km and crystal clear, engine runs very smooth and its eliminated all the idle noise that was related to the valve train and such, its a 0w20 but based on its specs its more of a "thicker" 0w20 allmost a 0w25 you could say only to be beat by the redline which tests as a near 30 weight oil p.s i did also use a Amsoil oil filter with the Amsoil oil

Amsoil 75w90 MTF fluid Tranny shifts like butter now when it warms up BUT ive missed 2ed twice and only with this oil, it really notchy when cold like the OEM oil but when it warms up its silky smooth, I do think the syncromesh might be better, not sure but i feel like mixing half half and trying it

Amsoil 75w90 Severe duty Diff The OEM fluid came out black after 7500km with alot of metal shavings on the drain plug, no chips flakes or grains of metal but typical very fine metal shavings , having known i would have changed my diff fluid @ 4000km , this fluid seems to work well but didnt notice a difference

Summary- I find it sucks that Subaru/Toyota have used energy conservation based oils in this car instead of actual performance based oils, their engine oil to me is garbage and only for fuel mileage and the trans oil they clearly stated ""#9632;Manual transmission gear oil
Using a manual transmission gear oil other than “MG Gear Oil special II”
may cause occurrences of rattling noises while idling and poor fuel consumption"" again fuel consumption, what i like about a mustang is no where do they ever try and pass the fuel mileage BS its a sports car and what matters is performance , they have the prius for fuel mileage. I wont use the OE oil anymore other than for when i store it in the winter i might do that and a OE filter and thats only because i store it with fuel additif which usually requires a oil change after that tank of gas is burnt, but other than that its going to be Amsoil all the way.

You can thank the EPA/Gov controls for those Eco-Items you find in the cars.

The reason why the Mustang can get away with being non-eco? It's a law of averages, this means that all those Fiestas and Focuses and Hybrid C-maxes out there draw the Ford CAFE rating up high, so that their trucks and sports cars can be non-eco friendly.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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For info, there is no such thing as a 0W-25. Amsoil SS 0W-20 has an kinematic viscosity of 8.8 at 100C, so you could say that it's a thick 20 grade (since 30 grades start at 9.3), or nearly a 30 grade, but the 25 grade does not exist.

Thank you. :)

-Dennis


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Where did you buy your oil from?

HKS has a 0w-25, but it was just a figure of speach to get the point across:) yes thats right if you go on the amsoil site you can view the spec sheet and compare it to others oils, some are very close but if compared to the OE oil theres quite a diff, also visit bobtheoilguy.com and you can view forums of multiple comparisons over what oil is the best, i can say tho it acts wonderfully to this my engine i am satisfied with the result.the only thing i dont like is that the oil is not API certified but as long as its SN/SM ILSAC GF-5, GF-4, than its supposed to have no conflict with warranty.

local guy he sells the amsoil products name is Marcel , Irnieracing.com , he races bikes

I wouldn't buy anything labeled as 0W-25 based on the fact that it is not an oil grade as defined by the SAE J300.

Check the viscosity chart at bitog:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/

There is nothing between 20 and 30.

If you want a robust Amsoil, the Dominator 5W-20 is robust and has more ZDDP than Rotella T6.

-Dennis

That's good that you've changed out your oil. The only thing I can say is when I did a full fluid change with OEM at 6000 Km's everything was better. The trans seemed a bit better and the diff wasn't as groany while making that first turn from my side street. And the engine seemed way smoother. But now I'm running Castrol 0W -30 German formula and it's even better.

It's looks like your fairly new, just so you know that BlueSubie is bit of an oil guru in this forum. He's posted countless times about the stuff for different things. He knows his stuff and tend to take what he says to heart about oils. :)

Anyways congrats, and enjoy.

Fixed. :)

-Dennis

If you don't mind me asking you: whats the difference (0.40$) between this (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...code=SVGQTC-EA) and that (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=SRNQT-EA).

I read racing myself so i assume second is better for the crazy sport car my BRZ is. Correct ?

use the 75w-90, not the sae 190.

the 190 is 3 times as thick as the 75w-90 at 40 C.... just look at the specs

Dont need to really understand why, just needed an answer because i dont understand the impact of all theses differences in visosity and stuff :o thanks buddy ! :)

i think it would benefit you to have a basic understanding..... check out bobistheoilguy.com and read through the motor oil university.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

the concepts from the lectures span across all fluid types (motor, transmission, differential, etc)

That was written by a plastic surgeon! Some good info there, but it's not entirely accurate.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3294902/1/Dr_Haas'_Motor_Oil_University_

-Dennis