DIY/Post Your Spec-D Headlamp Pics
 

So here are mine.

Preface: These are NOT FI friendly!

Start with removing your bumper and current headlamps

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8788

Wiring Info for Spec-D Lamps

Wires:

Headlamp harness (4 wires)

Red (+12v), Red/Black (Ground) = These toggle the high beam actuator
Blue (+12v), Blue/Black (Ground) = Positive trigger for the low beam headlight. Essentialy these turn the headlight on.

Other 4 remaining wires.

x2 Black (Ground) - x1 ground for the high beam actuator. x1 ground for the LED boomerang, turn signal and low beam headlight.

Yellow (+12v) - Amber turn signal

White (+12v) - LED boomerang

Do you need a DRL mod?

You DO NOT need a DRL mod for these lamps!

Those with the FRS can essentially opt to NOT connect the yellow wire if you don't like the amber within the lamp, after all, you have turn signals in the lower bumper.

For the FRS, if you want the boomerang to remain lit at all times as long as the headlights are on or the parking brake is dropped, you can wire them to the +12v in the turn signal harness. I'll verify which wire this is tomorrow when I complete the install.

The LED boomerang color changes depending on what angle you look at it. I don't believe there is an HID kelvin temp perfect match.


http://i59.tinypic.com/2i1z6v5.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/1628npj.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/2jbk5qc.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/2yuzn8i.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/29wrh3s.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/20jpter.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/314xmom.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/amrvhc.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/nm134j.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/io16wk.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/zy5wdx.jpg

Now, how you wire yours will depend on how you want them to function. Personally, I wired my boomerang to the remote wire of the turn signal as well as diode isolated to the parking light circuit. Wiring it this was keeps the boomerang on as a DRL as well as with the low and high beam.

Current Setup Winjets

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2018.36.19.jpg

HIDs for Spec-D

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.22.54.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.22.59.jpg

Bulb Installation (bar towards the bottom)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.23.31.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.23.47.jpg

Military Splice Ground (No need to connect 2 separate ground wires)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.25.35.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.26.02.jpg

D2S Ballasts with wires pulled through grommet

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.28.23.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.28.35.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.28.41.jpg

Clamp these down a little more to grasp the cable tighter to ensure a solid connection

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.29.25.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.29.42.jpg

Plastic Cap will need to be drilled to run wires

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.30.41.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.34.07.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.34.26.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.35.09.jpg

Wiring to Switchback (Turn Signal)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.45.02.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.46.20.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.46.55.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.47.36.jpg

Testing

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.48.10.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.31.15.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.38.22.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.38.35.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.39.11.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.39.31.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2022.26.34.jpg

very nice! I should get getting my Spec-D lights soon in the mail :D

@ecko04 why are these not FI friendly?

If you have a FI system that was designed for the FRS the Spec-D lamps have a mounting surface on the bottom to accommodate factory ballasts. That may not clear the FI guys IC piping.

If you have a system designed for the BRZ then you're fine since it should've been designed with the factory ballasts in place.

I'm wondering this too..

what does FI mean?

Foolish Individual

Stolen pics from @Jarumie42172 who has a real camera.

Stolen pic from @FRSTRM

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...551.064517.jpg

So do these look that purple in person? Or is it more of a white glow?

Attachment 75304
Attachment 75305
Attachment 75306

Kinda need help with this guys, please bare with me. I got the headlights same time as you all but now i just had the chance to installed it on Wed. Long story short got the HID H1 in and after couple mins of messing with the washer, i got it to fit. The long "rod" was upward and the bulb itself on on the bottom if you know what I mean. The output and coverage was quite disappointing, please check and see. Is that what you guys are getting also?

As you can see since the "rod" is above the actual bulb, there is a reflection of it on the wall and also on the ground. Hard to miss it. Should I go get D2S instead?

http://i.imgur.com/8upjjBI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8yw2DGO.jpg

The rods are supposed to be at the 6 o clock possession.

My question, which nut do I use to adjust the height of the light output?

Why exactly are these not FI friendly?

See post #5

Did you guys use harness for the D2S? @ecko04? Cold start my driver didnt turn on, had to turn off and turn it back on again to let them ignite.

Also like @Chen Im curious which knob is it to aim the headlight up/down

I figured it out. It's the only 8mm bolt that's back there. Counter clock wise for up and clock wise for down.

My advise do it whole the headlight is off the car. It's a pain while it's on the car


Edit- clock wise for up and counter clock wide for down.

Sorry to bumb this thread, but I installed these earlier and hadn't seen this mentioned in any of the other threads on them. Do these not have Hi/Lo beams? I'll look to see if I see it in any other threads, but figured I'd start here. Thanks!

Yes, there is a high/low beam but it's a bit different than stock.

It's a bi-xenon projector setup. The projector inside has a shield that blocks off light above a certain threshold so you don't blind other drivers. When you turn on your high beam, this shield moves down to let all the light shine out of the projector.

There's much more to it but that's a general description.

hi I just got these light install on my frs today but I was wondering how do you wire the led drl strip to stay on without turn on the light switch on in the daytime?!

DRL like when you put down your e-break and the lights come on? If I remember right, you can't because you take the harness out when you install the new headlights.

How exactly did you fix this? My body shop put these lights on and got the same results.

Are you guys using D2S bulbs? I know with that bulb there is also a D2R that has the rod thing of the bulb in a different spot.
@Diode Dynamics for someone who actually knows lol

D2S is designed for use in OEM projector style housings, D2R is designed for reflector style applications.

Those output shots with the keyholes look like OP is running an H11 in an H11B housing or H11B in H11 housing etc etc

That keyhole is caused by the position of the leadwire on the HID bulb.

Nick C.

I was told that there is an h1 bulb in there.

factory is h1

I run D2S in mine they fit fine (there is a adapter to fit the h1)

Factory is definitely not an H1 on the FR-S or the BRZ. Most aftermarket housings use H1 & H7 if that's what you meant.

D2S is an OEM HID bulb size, and will produce much more output than an H1

Nick C.

can somebody please help me on what to do with wiring?
I used a T tap connector to tap the white boomerang wire to the daytime running light red wire on the bottom of the bumper. It worked for about 10 seconds and then went dead.

Now the daytime running lights and the boomerang will not turn on. My FRS is a 2015 and it comes stock with the LED strip daytime running lights.

I connected white boomerang wire to red positive in DRL wire. The black is grounded to the chasis.

Have you removed the t taps? I've only had bad experiences with them.

yeah removed the t taps. ended up blowing a fuse.

I got the Spec D & D4S H11 kit from Ft86speedfactory but after doing my research on here everyone says they don't work so I didn't even try to install them. Long story short what is the proper size for these lights?

So you got this Spec D headlight w/HID option? This headlight uses an H1 bulb. Now if you bought the HID kit as an option to the headlight it should work fine.

Here is the Spec D page. Check the third picture, the rear of the housing. The round plastic thing on the left covers the headlight connector. Turn to remove this and the bulb is behind there.

Unbox your HID kit and find the HID bulb, follow the wire and it should run into a round rubber piece. At the rubber piece there should be another wire with a connector on it. The HID bulb and connector will be on the same side of the round rubber piece. This connector will plug into the same socket as the bulb that came with the Spec D headlight. You need to drill a hole in the plastic cover thing to run the bulb and connector through. Then plug the hole with the rubber thing. The ballast and igniter will stay outside the housing just mount them some place.

anyone else figure out how to connect an hid kit ever since they changed the connectors to this?

I've been wondering the same thing.

figured it out already haha the main thing thats a pain is the bracket that holds the bulb

so guys quick question... what do we do if one of the boomerangs go out? like am I SOL here?

im semi in the same boat, my high beams are stuck to the "ON" position unless i hit the actual headlight for them to go back to normal......:sigh:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2a89060119.jpg


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