Aubody Swirl Marks
 

Hey All,

My car recently took a haymaker to the hood, the body shop did a great job re painting and replacing the hood (clear coated the underside for some reason). They also re cleared my whole bumper and both fenders...however they left a ton of swirls in my paint :barf:. I understand you shouldn't wax for 30-90 days, however how do I get those swirls out? could I just use some mcguire's polish? I plan to use a hand applicator due to not having a polisher.

I plan to just follow the instructions on the bottle, however I have tried before and was unsuccessful with removing all swirls. :thanks:

I suggest a Harbor Freight dual Action polisher with a soft pad and meguiars M09. polishing and cutting using a hand applicator is a royal bitch. you couldnt pay me enough to do it again

@Junkman2008. He's got it down. Check out his youtube channel.

I would try the harbor freight da polisher with a blue pad from them with a good polish before trying compound!

I'd talk to the painter, and have them buff it again. Obviously they didn't do it right the first time, if it has swirls.

This. Even with my shitty Geico insurance, I pointed out all the left over sanding lines in the paint of a repainted quarter panel and they repainted it. Not 100% but 10x better than what they tried to give me.

But some shops are ignorant you might be better off just paying for a detail rather than waste time with imbeciles.

Hey All,

Thanks for all the suggestions, Today I went through the whole car after detailing it, I found a couple of spots that looked like overspray, I was able to clay and remove by hand with even pressure using a seasoned microfiber pad, and some polish. the spots looked super dull and were isolated on my doors, near the fenders. They were about the size of two fingers....:eyebulge: looked like some odd overspray. However I was able to remove about 99% of it and about 95% of all swirls in the areas I was polishing.

I plan on buying a dual action polisher, Iv never done any machine polishing, however Iv just watched videos and read write ups. I plan to practice on my old perfectly pained hood (the same one that got punched) Hopefully It will turn out good, Ill throw up some pics in a bit of the "overspray"...

exactly...why do people try and fix shit shops fuck up I dont get it YOU paid THEM make them make it right

Because the same place that messed up will just screw up again and make it worse

If thats the case...and insurance paid for it...call the insurance company and tell them its not right and the place that they sent you to didnt do it correct and ask them...trying to do somehting you have no idea how to do IE paint correction is asking for trouble

Use a clay bar to get rid of overspray....

I would recommend checking out Adams Polishes. They have good video tutorials and were the first company I turned to when I had a 135i in black.

In all honesty though.. machine polishing with a DA is not going to harm your new cars paint.... Hell there is a video of a gentleman keeping a DA in one spot for a minute w/ excessive pressure and it just began to burn the paint. The only thing that sucks is losing two days to do the correction. Patience is key.. and if you are able to do it by hand.. you obviously would benefit with a DA.

Look at the Porter Cable 7424xp as your first DA if you decide to make the plunge. That is an appropriate entry level DA polisher that will have enough power for you to put pressure and perform without losing functionality. I would not bother with Harbor Freight stuff.....

If you are really an enthusiast you could get the CYCLO polisher... and with one of those you really couldn't damage your paint.

Good luck with your detailing!

That sucks when the paint shop buffed the paint with a rotary(likely) the guy probably did not know what he was doing, and the only concern I would have if I were you anyway, would be in taking it back to the painter that they all ready swirled it up, they might make it worse and also if they are not experienced taking away quite a bit of clear coat in the process.

The way I see this you have two options dependent on how bad the paint is jacked up, if its really bad with holograms you may just want to opt for a pro have the paint corrected and ask the paint shop to pay for it possibly?. Assuming its just swirl marks: Option #1 take the car to a highly professional detailer in your area to be corrected and opticoated (perhaps check either this forum or popular detail forums for recommendation's in your area). Or option #2 purchase a DA polisher such as a Porter Cable DA 7424XP, Griot's Garage DA polisher, or Meguiar's DA polisher. Make sure to get some good quality foam pads along with a clay bar kit and compound/polish/sealant and have a field day.

Going to take many hours and be forewarned, it is work to do it yourself. With that said although it takes a while there is a reward in doing it yourself. I enjoy detailing as a hobby so feel free to PM me any questions if you need to.

A lot of the time after I wet sand out my fresh paint jobs then compound/polish it will look perfect, but after a week or two it will show some lights wet sand scratches/swirls since the clear is still out gassing and shrinking. I usually ask those customers to drop the car back off for a day about a month after it's complete for a final polish.

Never really have a problem with shrinkage on the faster production clear coats but this is with the slower, high solids/ all over paint job clear coats I use

i used adams polishes videos to start out back in the day. great tutorials for everything. the best secret ive learned is that you dont have to dry the car instantly if you spray a detailer on the panels after washing. spray then dry. if the spray leaves residue, give it a quick wipe with a rag that has spray applied to it.