Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB - The many colors of whiteout (the matching problem)

I feel like there has been a few threads on this lately, and I've run into it as well on my own car with newly painted parts, so I did a little research. I'll add more as I find more information, but this kind of stuff is interesting to me, so i figured that I would share:bonk::bonk:.

We all know the whole "plastic vs metal" idea, but there is actually a LOT to getting a pearl color to match.

My own car:

Color is actually a pretty dead on match…..

Off the car in the sun for color check
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psxlotwzxc.jpg

Shade

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psnnjilrer.jpg

And night pics with flash

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...pse4yjuura.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psuzxfrsb2.jpg

And 'da whole booty!
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psbsqrhbxu.jpg

But add a little angle and some artificial light (fluorescent bulbs in the garage) :confused0068::confused0068:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psqxlb8gei.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psxqehbln6.jpg

(even factory parts go off a little)
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psy3ybuyiw.jpg

And here's the reason why

Quote:

So why do the car manufacturers have so many variances? Most car manufacturers have three major paint suppliers. The manufacturer decides on a standard color for production and submits a painted sample to their suppliers. The paint manufacturer then produces a formula for the “standard sample” and is allowed a tolerance of plus or minus 5% when they deliver the paint.

This is the first problem because the plant in the east coast may be getting a 5% shade greener on a blue metallic standard and the plant in the west coast may be getting a 5% shade violet on the same blue metallic standard. When compared side by side, they look like a completely different color. This is the reason the paint manufacturers usually have the standard formula followed by two alternates. If the alternates are not available, the painter in the body shop usually mixes the standard formula and tints it accordingly.

The second reason for variances in paint colors is the metallic color applications. The metallic colors are now classified in 7 categories. Extra fine, fine, medium, medium coarse, coarse, and extra coarse. The metallic colors control the value (lightness and darkness) of the color similar to what white does in a pastel color.

Metallic colors will cause variances in color when applied. Temperature, paint film thickness, flash off time between coats, fluid tip sizes, speed of the spray gun, surface type (Plastic or Metal) and humidity will all cause the color to shift lighter or darker.

The rule of thumb: the longer it takes to dry, the darker the color will change as it dries. This is caused by pigment floatation. The metallic flakes will settle down to the bottom of the paint film and push the pigment up causing the color to shift darker.

The reasons above only mention the variables at the car manufacturers level. So what happens to a color after three years of sunshine? Many people think that colors do not change, but they do, and I will prove it. If you own a car that is at least three years old and has been out in the sun most of the time, remove a pinstripe and you will see the original color when you bought the car.

The sunlight has ultra-violet, and has absorbed some of the pigments. Blue metallic colors sometimes shift to a greener shade, and reds will turn pinkish or more orange. The auto body shop has to deal with matching an oxidized color in addition to new OEM colors. The new paint to be applied will look brighter and cleaner but the rest of the car looks dead even if you polish it.

Auto Body Shops today have a greater challenge than just color match. The texture or (Orange Peel) also has to match the original finish in order for it to look pre-accident condition. This can be accomplished by using the proper spray gun, polishing equipment and experience.

Quote:

How do you explain the bumper color change to the customer? Plastic bumpers will always change color especially in metallic colors. The plastic has a static charge and the metallic paint will settle different than on the sheet metal parts, causing pigment floatation that will shift the color darker or lighter. The other reason is surface temperature, if the sheet metal is colder, the bumper will look lighter, if the sheet metal is hotter than the bumper, the color on the bumper will look darker. The third reason is flex additive. If the clearcoat is applied on the bumper with a flex additive, it will shift the color slightly.

Quote:

1. Know how the color you’re creating will reflect in the sunlight: Since pearl paint uniquely reflects light, you must be careful about what colors and amounts to select. When using white as a base coat for the pearl paint job, remember that any red-based paint will have a tendency to gleam pink in the sunlight. The best colors to stick to when going with a white base coat are blue, silver, gold, orange, and violet.
When using a black base coat, it’s very important to remember that if you use too much of the pearl paint, it will force the color to take on more of the pearl, and render the use of a black base pretty much useless. To achieve the right color, the ratio of the pearl should be one teaspoon per quart of base. Once the ratio is right, the paint job will take on a midnight, color-changing effect.
If the base coat that you are using is red, orange, or burgundy then the most recommended pearl coat is gold. Other options are red, blue, or violet pearls. When using a blue base, stick with gold, violet, or green pearl. A yellow base coat tends to look best with a green or gold pearl paint. Orange, red, and gold typically turn out great on a green base. A pink base will look very nice with silver or even red as the pearl paint. The purple base paint goes well with silver, green, or red pearl paint.
The final step, applied after the base and pearl coats is a clear coat. It is important to note that the clear coat should only be placed over custom paint and not over faux finish, gel coating, or powder coating.

I actually had this wing repainted after I got it back the first time because it was darker than the bumpers (which are also off, which is "normal"). I specifically remember the painter saying that he was going to change bases and go with a blue base. As far as the paint is concerned me matched it to the "standard sample" The chips he used had both a subaru and toyota variance. He mentioned they they were the exact same so for the 6 color chips he showed me there was really only 3 different colors, I assume the plus or minus 5%.

Hopefully this helps anyone who is as picky as I am as far at match. I was ready to take the wing back again for a 3rd time to have it redone, but after researching, it's time to stop being so picky and just enjoy.

EDIT:
So, this is what worked on my car. Obviously it will change with the car, but this should get the painter close. I would also like to note, they did have to blend the fenders on both sides.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psbtb2noro.jpg

And the match. It truly is pretty dead on. I'll take it.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...ps8fv4enom.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psydzjnldx.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psin6tk9by.jpg

[IMG]http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h86/suaveflooder/D429***6-FDF9-4AC5-9544-C8CA00C03E21_zpsujoweusf.jpg[/IMG]