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Which FI to run for a race car?
I am confused, was thinking about supercharger because of the linearity of the power but there are so many turbo kits available and for cheaper that that makes me think twice.
What worries me is the heat in a turbo application, anyone has a suggestion on what should be used for a car that will see a one hour race? I can't run a vented hood so heat is a very big concern, especially on some tracks between walls where there is no air. i would like a kit that can do both 250whp and 300whp. I am new to the platform and there are so may kits and threads on this i am going nuts. Also, everyone talks about the street, but what about a one hour race? I am used to NA engine but the FA20 won't make enough horsepower to be competitve. thanks for any help. |
If you want TC and worried of heat sounds like an Avo or PTuning kit being low mounted May best suit your needs. "May suit your needs" key being that, some dd req'd.
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Yeah the AVO kit has been used in race applications for some time now and fits within your needs, but so are most of the supercharger kits. What kind of gas do you need to run? Being able to run E85 will go a long way to making your goals safely.
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we don't have E85 in Canada but i will run 94 octane with the 250whp setup and full race fuel with the 300whp setup (serie spec fuel)
The only other FR-S race car i know is from the same city i live in and uses a AVO kit also, but it was built like 2 years ago so it probably was the only available kit at the time. He has only done like 2 races and never finished one because of mechanical failure (don't know what went wrong exactly) so i can't say he proved the kit... I beleive a kit that puts the turbo in the back would probably be the best to keep the heat away. Just worried about the length of the intake piping |
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The NA engine does make enough power to be competitive. Look at the TR86 series in NZ.
The avo turbo (when driven hard) overheats on the track. My bullet supercharger did as well. IMO if you're a serious about 1hr endurance racing, stay NA. |
I also am always aware of a misconception on these forums about turbo location and heat.
I'm not denying that a kit like ptuning is better, because it places the turbo low down, but the radiant heat from the turbo isn't the problem. I'd say 70% of the heat that comes with running more power, is because you're running more power fullstop; not because of heat soak off the turbo/hot parts. |
what i am afraid with a turbo up front is the heat close to the radiator, will it be enough in 90 deg weather after an hour? Also the under hood temp must go up like crazy.
About being NA, considering the FR-S does around 200 whp with all the supporting mods and 150 lb of torque, being competitive with cars that have in average 260 whp/250 lbs of torque is going to be rough. As far as lap time goes it may be close but trying to pass someone or trying not be passed while using a defensing line is impossible with 60 hp less. If i was able to make it 240 whp with 210 lbs/torque NA like our RSX that would be nice but i doubt that will happen. |
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OP, you might need to look into a different vehicle then :\ |
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We should have a lot more track data shortly now that the crazy winter weather is finally behind us. If you look at our S2000 low-mount turbo system, you'll find that it is one of the few systems on the market that can successfully complete an all out 30 minute HPDE session without the need for a vented hood, excessive heat insulation of exhaust components, and major relocation of other heat sensitive components. Turbo location goes a long way in taming under hood heat. http://i57.tinypic.com/11hv2xj.jpg - Toan |
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i won't need 250 ft/lbs because the way the ratio works in our serie is this, whp+torque/2 X 11 = weight of the vehicule with driver after race. So if i produce less power, i can get the car lower on weight but still, i doubt i will be able to make it less than 2600 with driver. Basically, i need an average of like 230-240 with hp/torque |
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too late, car is purchased ;) |
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