My First Wash/Claybar/Wax (Questions and Opinions)
 

Hey guys i just wanted to ask for some opinions on car washing, clay barring, and waxing (in that order).

I had owned my 10 Series FR-S for a couple months now and I never got into waxing or detailing my car. I had washed my car a couple of times with Turtle Wax Liquid Ice Car Wash. It was the car wash my dad had gotten to wash his BMW 745Li for the past years, but I was later told by a bunch of friends that I should start using Meguiar's Ultimate Wash (Yellow liquid). So I purchased a bottle of it, but I read the other forum posts about using the meguiar's smooth surface clay bar kit and deep crystal wax after washing my FR-S. So i was wondering if it is a good game plan to do the following:

(On a decently bright day)
1. Wash my car with the Meguiar's Ultimate Wash
2. Dry it off with a drying micro fiber towel
3. Clay bar my entire car with the Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Bar Kit
4. Then wax my car off with the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnuaba Wax

*Note, I have not used the ultimate wash yet, so the bottle is unopened.
*It is not the wash and wax bottle, it is just the ultimate wash bottle.
*My goal is to start cleaning my car this upcoming weekend

Any pointers, opinions, or better ideas for a game plan for my car?

Also i had a question about my car windows as well. So when i got my car, there was the numbers written (those usually labeling the lot number and etc) on my front windshield and whenever i was my car or when it gets really foggy those numbers would reappear on the windshield. So i was wondering if the ultimate wash would get rid of those numbers OR what i should do to get rid of those numbers. (Basically what should i do to properly clean my windows)

I also wanted to ask on what i should do when i wanna clean my rims as well?

Thanks in advance for opinions, if any. (Again i am completely new at this so be nice please ><)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but after the wash I wouldn't bother drying it, I would just clay it right away while it's wet, but still use quick detail spray in combination with the water on the car.

Regarding the glass, try this stuff - Stoner's Invisible Glass

http://img1.targetimg1.com/wcsstore/...9/13793586.jpg

i perfer griot's clay and (if i had to choose a commercial detailer/lube) meguiars ultimate detailer

I prefer zymol car wash from walmart/advance auto honestly..... it suds like a mofo and slick as anything.

when i cant use zymol and want to go rinseless, i use turtle wax rinseless

use meguairs ultimate paste wax. it makes paint look so much deeper. colors pop and blacks look absolutely sinister.

dry with a quality microfiber towel - preferably waffle weave and use the sheeting method when rinsing.

i would:
1) wash car using two bucket method (buy grit guards)
2) sheet water to rinse off suds.
3) before drying, spray quick detailer all over the car. it prevents water spots from forming before you dry the area.
4) dry using waffle microfiber towel
5) claybar
6) rinse car 2nd time
7) apply paste wax in shaded area.
8) blast car with quick detailer again (to remove wax "holograms")
9) attack windows (in shaded area) with rainx out the outside. it removes embedded contaminants very easy
10) clean interior windows with invisible glass using a dedicated GLASS microfiber towel
11) clean interior
12) drink beer
13) beer

edit: for wheels, use iron-x from time to time. ferrous particles from the road/brake pads get imbedded in the rim and make it look "dull" over time. it dissolves the gunk. rinse it off and clean with a dedicated wheel rag/mit/pad. DO NOT use the same water for the paint as the wheels. DO NOT use the same water for the wheels as the paint. dump the bucket when you finish one or the other, rinse it, and refill with suds

1. Use liquid wax instead of paste. Much less error with the liquid.Past has to go on very very thin usually and its tough to judge for a rookie. Liquid is much easier to see and work with.
2. Check out microfibertech.com. Grab the korean waffle weave and a few of the 16x16 waffle weaves for drying. And whatever other 360, 500, 600 and 700 GSM towels you want. Also grab their dreadlock wash mitt.
3. Your car is silver, so it should be really easy to wash and wax, do not stress. For metallic paint like yours I recommend Meguiars NXT 2.0 wax. It is in a purple bottle. Will make the flakes pop, it's a sealant so it lasts longer than Carnauba, and its pretty easy to use.
4. Dont try to overdue it all at once. Just spend a few weeks washing and drying the car to get comfortable. After a little while, clay then put some liquid wax on it. Car detailing is not as difficult or confusing as it sounds.

Personally I don't leave it wet to clay. Mainly because I don't like the lubricity compared to clay lube such as Optimum No Rinse. Also by drying the car you reduce the chance of water spotting. It's easier for me to just dry the car then spend the time going around again with a clay lube, nanoskin towel, and a simple waffle weave.

For MicrofiberTech use coupon code NEWS5 for 5% off.

My First Wash/Claybar/Wax (Questions and Opinions)
 

I plan on doing the same general process as the OP. My car is silver ignition, FR-S, and my procedure will involve using a paint sealant before throwing on the wax. I'm doing this by all by hand. If my taxes come out in my favor I'm going to splurge for an dual action polisher like the Griot's or the Porter Cable.

1. 2 bucket wash (chemical buys pink soap)
2. clay the car (mothers clay kit)
3. apply sealant (DP Policoat Paint Sealant)
4. apply Colinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845)

All of the products have been in my possession since the fall. I effed up and waited too long to do it and the weather got too cold. My garage is unheated and with the kind of winter we had in the NE my time to clay-seal-wax the car will come within the next 4 weeks or so.

Supposedly it's better to wash your car on a cloudy day or in a garage rather than in direct sunlight. Personally, I don't know how much of a difference it makes, but the detailing pros claim that beads of water serve to magnify the sun's rays and is harder on your paint.

As for the claying, you only need to apply light pressure, and you should feel the clay doing the work for you. Make straight passes over lubricated areas until the clay glides seamlessly, then you know you're done in that spot. Make sure to knead the clay every so often, and pick out any visible contaminants and debris. Lastly, it probably goes without saying, but just in case, IF YOU DROP THE CLAY, THROW IT OUT. You can pick and pick and pick as much debris as possible out, but you'll never get it all and wind up scratching the hell out of your paint.

Temperature is your main enemy. If you must work when it's hot make your working area much smaller. A common tip is if the paint is too hot to hold your hand on it comfortably it's too hot to work on. Heat causes products to flash, streak, and leave marks that will only drive you up the wall. Keep the washing to the early morning or evening during the summer if you don't have access to a garage.

thanks for all the feedback, only problem im facing now is the weather stil has not been in my favor! Another problem was that i tried cleaning my windows with invisible glass the markings left from the numbering on the car still appears. Any other product people know of to get rid of that?

rainx or goo-gone.

So goo-gone is an option. Ill check that out. Have you tried it?

Ill need to see what exactly youre dealing with, but both work well at removing chemicals and residue from adhesives.

and yes, ive used both for this purpose.