Anyone have experience with Hawk DTC-30 pads?
 

I'm looking for a pad I can use on my BRZ at the track. I would like to change pads at home right before driving to the track, and intend on removing them as soon as I get home.
I have been to several tracks around the region over the last 15 years. I do not race and doubt I will in the future.
I normally get about 12 track days in each year. I plan to run high performance summer rubber. Maybe something like a Sumitomo HTR-ZIII. I might have a set of r-comps in the next year or two. Other than good brake fluid, the rest of my car is stock. I may add a set of RCE Yellow springs sometime.
Ideally I would use a Hawk compound, as we NASA instructors get nice discounts on them. I had HT-10s in my Boxster S and really liked them. I fear they might be a little overkill in this car. I expect DTC-60s would also be overkill, but suspect the DTC-30 is just what I'm looking for. Unfortunately I am not having much luck digging up information specific to this pad on the BRZ/FRS.
Before buying something I would really like to hear others' experiences with the DTC-30 on the BRZ/FRS. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
Also, I understand I should probably get the TF brake ducts. I would love an AP kit, but based on how my car is set up I'm not sure that's the right decision.

If you're an instructor, you're not going to like the DTC-30s on this car. Heck, first few events I had DTC-60's and I didn't think they were even enough. I'd go DTC-70's if I had to run Hawks again.

FYI, that was WITH the TF Brake Cooling kit and RBF600 fluid.

Youll want the 70

Also believe the 30's won't be enough!

I will be trying out the 60's on my first few event! We'll see from there!

What tracks are you guys doing that even DTC-60 pads weren't enough for the FR-S? And what tires?
At first glance I thought the OP was on the right track with DTC-30 pad selection for what he's doing....

I had DTC-60's at Sebring and it wasn't enough (stock tires then Pilot Super Sports). You'll quickly find that this car is a bit under-braked from the factory for track use, which is surprising for such a small and light, low HP car. I go through a set of front pads about every 6 track days, whereas my old STL prepp'ed Miata, the pads would last me like a year.

Are you the guy from SVTPerformance.com with the grabber blue Mustang RTR build by any chance?

Negative, not me. I can see Sebring being quite hard on brakes. Good info.

I've had no issues with DTC-60 at VIR (full and north courses), but they are both pretty easy on brakes. It looks like I'll get about 28x30 minute sessions out of them. Rotor wear has been great, just normal heat checking. I could probably more events on the rotors but will likely replace them with the pads.

Stock power level, Dunlop Direzza Star Specs.

I have also played with the DTC-30 on the rear (that and HPS). The HPS were working fine, the DTC-30 also work, but require the "pedal dance" to work properly (the lower bite HPS didn't require the pedal dance).

I drive to the track (and sometimes daily) on the DTC-60/DTC-30 combo. They squeal like a school bus, but work fine cold.

Great info, guys. BIG thanks.

Hmm I wonder if the guys that didn't think DTC60 were good enough could not actually get enough heat in them. I run DTC70 on non DOT slicks but on Hankook RS3 they had way too much bite and would freak the ABS out. I do have Brembo STi fronts so maybe not apples to apples.

I've been using Hawk for a long time and the HT10 slots between the DTC30 and 60 and the HT12 between the DTC60 and 70. The HT have more bite at lower temps so I ran HT12 for a very long time as I couldn't get the DTC70 hot enough on my time attack STI in two laps. DTC compounds have better modulation (less initial bite) but better fade resistance, and more overall friction. If you can't get these pads hot enough they will eat your rotors (if they squeal you're not hot enough).

With that said the 30s just suck, what's the point, kind of brake pad. I think you'll be good on 60s front and rear.

My 2c
Phil Grabow

For the love of God people don't run less friction in the rear as you'll just make the front do more work and overheat. There is already more than enough front bias from the factory.

Also keep in mind low friction tires extend your braking zones substantially!!!! You will often find this when reading people's reviews and that stock tire cars are fading brakes badly while the guys on race tires don't have issues because our braking zones are substantially compressed.

A similar issue will be with soft oem vs firm coilovers which will have less brake dive. If you have a ton of brake dive your rear brakes cannot do as much work as a suspension that keeps more weight in the rear.

So all points of view could be valid so just read between the lines and look at the big picture when taking advice. Maybe the average track guy's review is better suited than advice from a national championship winning car.

Tanks,
Phil Grabow

28x30 minute sessions is amazing. I know I'm hard on brakes, but right now I have 17 sessions and the fronts are nearly at the backing plate. Looks like rears will last double what the fronts lasted.

I'm also on stock rotors, Yokohama AD08R summer tire, and SRF fluid. Nine of those sessions were at VIR this past weekend (14-16 Mar). I'm surprised how quickly I'm going through pad here, and would also agree that the DTC-60 has left me wanting, though much much better than a stock pad would be.

Those who are advocating for the 70; don't they last even less than the 60's? If that's the case I'll be replacing front pads every event. That's crazy.

All of that said OP, I think the 60 will work well for you. I didn't feel like my summer tire was overpowered in the least bit.