Coolant, Anyone tried this??
 

Waterless Engine Coolant
[ame]http://youtu.be/t7PykrgzWPQ[/ame]

Wrong forum. This is the classifieds

I used to run it in my quads because no water means no corrosion - it had aluminum and magnesium bits, and a design flaw caused electrolytic corrosion. Stuff was awesome; I never had a single issue. Some motors need a higher volume pump because nothing is as thermally efficient as water, but I don't know if our motors would be ok or not. Evans has info on it on their website. That said, I wouldn't put it in my BRZ, because there doesn't seem to be any pressing reason to do so, and I would think it would put some warranty coverage at risk (yes, I know Magnussen-Moss laws).

Just run blue

Sorry. I didnt get you.


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Run Blue, he means stick with what Subaru recommends. I agree...

Unless you have very specific needs (such as a racing organization prohibiting glycol coolant), I would just use the Suburu stuff.

If you run Evan's coolant PLEASE BE CAREFUL IF TRACK YOUR CAR. Evan's is extremely slippery on track surfaces if it leaks. That said, I've heard of many turbo applications running this since the higher cylinder head temps can cause water based coolants to boil in the head and cause dangerous steam pockets that can cause head gaskets to fail. I haven't heard any stories of coolant boiling in the heads causing HG failures in boosted applications on this platform, however, so I'm not sure waterless coolant would be needed unless you can be certain there's an issue with the water based coolant.

Running it now. Completely flushed coolant system and ran six gallons of prep fluid through system prior to filling with Evans water less coolant.

@stevo_12v

Just run Toyota coolant and when needed either add Toyota coolant OR WATER FROM A WATER-BOTTLE that's been distilled. Purified is ok too, but will leave a tad of residue as it dries.

Why DISTILLED? It helps reduce corrosion and other nasty dry minerals from clogging or going through your coolant lines. Either way, it's not something you should go out of your way for, but something I do.

Also recommend that when rinsing car engine compartment after a wash.

P.s. I recommend to flush every 100k if DD in hwy and city or 60-80k if driven off road.

Washing radiator every 30k. Least I do it. Just softly pressure wash it. I once found a hummingbird stuck on my trucks radiator. Dead and dried of course. /sniff

Please only use distilled water to flush the system or in an extreme short term emergency, there's a reason they want you to use the Toyota Blue/Subaru Blue long life or an actual coolant product and it' not a money grab. There are way more corrosion inhibitors in the coolant than distilled water, and distilled water turns corrosive. When water flows through and engine block, the distilled water especially picks up ions from metal surfaces especially in the case of a cooling system under pressure and reaching high temperatures, the pH level of distilled water drops and becomes much more acidic.

Has anyone taken into consideration that the BRZ requires the Subaru cooling system conditioner in addition to the antifreeze? Over years of head gasket leaks, Subaru found that a little stop leak was all that was needed to prevent failures. This has to do with the Boxer engine layout and the fact that coolant always saturates the head gasket at the bottom of the horizontally opposed engine. Eventually this soaking leads to a gasket failure. That's why the conditioner is recommend for ALL Subaru engines.


For people changing out their coolant, are you adding the cooling system conditioner? Is the waterless coolant compatible with Subaru's stop leak? For most cars, this wouldn't be an issue. I'd say change coolant as long as it doesn't cause corrosion. But most cars don't have a Boxer engine...