EGT gauge
 

I know this topic might need to be in the cosmetic section but I am not just throwing gauges in the car for looks. Lol anyways I was wondering what an NA EGT should read and a FI BRZ EGT should read. Thanks in advance

A few things:

1. The temperature reading is going to depend on where you locate the sensor/thermocouple. Generally speaking, the closer to the exhaust port, the hotter it will be (unless you physically put it in a cat which you aren't going to do)

2. The temperature reading is going to depend on rpm and load, air fuel ratio, and combustion phasing/spark timing. General rules: Higher rpm = hotter, leaner = hotter, retarded spark = hotter

3. The temperature reading is going to depend on how fast your gauge or data acquisition system is.

Further details on point #3:

The response of the reading depends on the response of the thermocouple and the sample rate/signal processing of the gauge or data acquisition system. So EGT gauges typically use a k-type thermocouple. Those read pretty fast, BUT the gauge itself can be slow or otherwise have a filtered signal.

A perfect example would be a simple autometer EGT gauge. It has an analog needle that moves pretty slow. It won't capture the fast transients temperatures in the exhaust manifold, even if the thermocouple itself reads fast enough. For this reason, the most representative data usually does not come from gauges. You need something that can read a thermocouple directly, or a box that converts a thermocouple signal to an analog voltage.

Why would you want an EGT gauge? I'm not criticizing, I'm just wondering.


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I'm getting oil temp because I've heard a lot of problem with car running hot. Getting EGT gauge before going Fi. I guess I just want to know what is the temp I need to be looking for before stuff start melting. Just precaution I guess. I am going with prosport gauge. Have had good exp with them.

it's a nice-to-have, particularly when tuning ignition timing. not something i'd consider critical for everyday monitoring enough to have a gauge in the car for, but something i'd want to be able to log if possible during tuning.

I am going to run a EGT because Im going to me making a few different manifolds and I want to see any changes.
@jamesm I was going to put the sensor in the runner from cyl 4, just because the older EJ motors always ran hot on that cylinder. Are you seeing anything that would suggest to same issue on the FA motor?

i haven't seen any data to support or refute the idea, and it stands to reason that it would be the case with any flat-4 of a similar design. maybe looking at the factory individual cylinder afr/timing comps could give us a clue.

I have a racecar with innovate TC-4 & LC-1.
So I can read 4X K-type Thermocouples and Wideband AFR.
I built my own data acquisition systems that reads the serial datastream from the innovate boxes as well as 3X 0-5V analog channels and writes the data to a SD mem stick at 1Hz.
It can probably run faster than that, but I have not tested it for speed yet.

If you can monitor WB AFR and EGTs you can get a better picture of how the engine is running. For ~$350 worth of hardware, at least two recent FA20 engine destruction incidents could have been avoided.
In those cases the lean running condition after tuning would have been noticed in both the WB-AFR and the EGT data.

Oh ok. Thanks everyone for clearing that up. What is an ideal temp? How does AFR affect temps? Where should the sensor be placed?


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These are questions you should probably be talking to your tuner about, not asking online.

I guess what I was tryin to find out is what temp would you start to worry that the engine is running too hot. All these other answers has been real good. I do better with numbers lol

Different cars have different tolerances to heat. We can only make baseline EGT suggestions based on wb-afr and knock/timing data. Once its been correlated over a big enough sample size only then could you start to make best guess assumptions on what egt looks like on this car boosted or na.

The second thought is that its already been said here that location of the thermocouple will effect your readout as well as the gauge or acquisiton of the signal, type of signal.

Its not something an everday driver needs or needs to worry about. The knock sensitivity is enough for most people to get by with this car without issue. If youre trying to determine det events based off egt then most likely you know what your doing already.

Most turbos can handle between 900-950C at the turbine inlet, sometimes more. Even then, it's hard to quantify how quickly damage can occur. Catalyst start to degrade when the brick temperature inside gets over anywhere from 850-950C. Now when I say "degrade," it means accelerated aging, something that you wouldn't easily experience on the street. Exhaust valves also have limits, but a lot of that has to do with cooling at the water jacket too.

If I had to give you a number to try and avoid, it would be anything over 900C/1650F , but as I've pointed out it still depends where you want to measure it.

It is very difficult to establish a correlation between EGT and level of knock in the engine. As it is, it can be difficult to establish a correlation between the knock sensor signal and actual knock in the engine when you are in light/borderline knock operation.

Thanks everyone for all the info. If I were to get gauges for everyday driving and some drag races at the track. What woul be some of the useful ones?