Insurance Quotes for USA owners
 

I did a search and found a thread about Canada insurance rates.

What rates are being quoted for US owners? I remember when I was in the market for an Evo 8 the rates were thru the roof and for other reasons the rates on an NSX for example is much lower.

I'm wondering how the insurance companies are classifying the BRZ and how that affects the rates your being quoted.

Thanks for any input guys!

Got quoted for ~$1300/12mo. My agent said quotes will be similar to the GC 2.0T

25 yo, in montgomery county maryland, college grad, not married, clean driving record.

BFE Wisc.
added to my current policy..
-no tickets
-multicar

$57 extra a month...VIN in hand

There is currently one for the FR-S n BRZ just to give you an idea. :happy0180:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ight=insurance

$875 a year, 21 year old. Clean record

I work in insurance and had been posting in the insurance threads in the FR-S/BRZ forums. I did a quote for myself (on a new policy, since the loyalty discounts I might already have would skew the numbers), and what I got was $1,171 (off the top of my head, give or take) for a 12-month policy. Again, I'm 28, single male with a college education in Southern California, clean record, full coverage with 100/300/100 limits and $250 comprehensive/$500 collision deductible. I know exactly what you mean about the Evo rates -- I've owned two, currently with an Evo IX SE that I've been enjoying for the past five years or so, minus the rates (compared to practically any other car). It's the lowest that I've found so far for myself through the companies that I have the capability of quoting through.

I've only seen one or two companies that actually had rates for the FR-S, but for the companies that didn't have rates for the FR-S and/or the BRZ, it has to be quoted manually, and the VIN won't help (but you'll still need to supply it if you end up insuring it). It varies from company to company, but if the rates aren't already set, they will be done manually and be based on the cost of the vehicle new (which will also dictate the numerical symbol to be used), the bodystyle (two-door hardtop in this case), the engine specs (cylinder count, displacement, hp) and the level of performance (indicated by a letter after the symbol).

When it's a brand new car, just so I don't get stuck with insuring something that might be ridiculously expensive, I'd steer clear of buying a car right when it comes out. New model years are a different story, those aren't going to change too drastically from the model before it.

Very informative! Thanks very much.

I've been getting quotes from Geico for $1,034 / 6 months :mad0260:

This includes 100/300/100, 1k deductible collision, 500 glass. I'm 22 with only 1 or 2 speeding tickets on my record. Time to drop Geico!

Can everyone list what companies you are getting these quotes through?

yea that sounds about right, anything under 25 yrs old its expensive seeing u got some tickets too.

Geico quoted for 1100$ for the WHOLE YEAR. I'm 27 clean record.

I pay about $900 / 6months for a 2008 GTI right now so it's not a huge difference I just thought it would be a bit lower. I wish insurance companies actually take into consideration or give some discount if you have done any advanced driving schools like Skip Barber. Unfortunately Skip Barber doesn't qualify :bonk:

Actually, people right after those schools have a tendency for accidents at a higher rate. :) Stats form my work :)

I'm not saying its always the case, but for some it is. Go figure.

Whole YEAR! Lucky. I think they quoted me just over $1200 for 6 months (27, clean record too), but that's because I'm adding to my existing car. So 2 to be insured cars. Mind you, both Subies :thumbup:

One awd, and one soon to be rwd...mmmm rwd! I want some oversteer fun!

Exactly. While I don't doubt Skip Barber training likely helps with your reflexes, the reality of the matter is that while it might help your ability to avoid accidents, it is still technically a racing school, not a defensive driver school, hence why there are no discounts available for that. The reason for that is because that kind of school is for people who are interested in driving fast and harnessing their abilities to push themselves further. That's not to downplay other skills that you might pick up that will benefit you as a defensive driver, but again, that's not the primary purpose.

Similarly, you can make a case for my car. I have an Evo, and it's gotten me out of sticky situations PLENTY of times where I may not have been so lucky in another car in that same instance. My car, and others like it, has pretty good hardware -- Brembo brakes can make the car safer since it can kill speed and stop in much shorter distances, the stock sportier suspension setup helps the car handle better, the AWD system and all of its differentials will help maintain grip better rather than sliding around, etc. But the bottom line is that it's still a performance car, one that people go hooning in, and the statistics support that... hence the crappy rates for my car. And it's not without warrant -- I drive very differently when behind the wheel of my girlfriend's Toyota Corolla.

/Thread

Marital status, college grad or not, and credit score are probably the biggest parts you can directly alter yourself.

Where you live and age are generally harder to manipulate :)

wow! that's pppretty good price! where do you get that?

im 20,clean record,btw

So what insurance companies actually have a BRZ in their system for quote?

So many of you with clean records or 1 or 2 tickets... I want to say I have like 7 or 8 (just cruising speeds, nothing stupid) over the course of 7 years

My insurance for my WRX though is only ~150 a month though.

Some local company. Says progressive Hawaii on the copy I have lol. We have 3 cars and 3 bikes with them already.

Maybe, but it's not as if you can realistically just decide to get married or graduate from a four-year college/university. Your credit score can somewhat be controlled/monitored throughout your life though, but its effects vary. For example, California does not use credit for auto insurance rates, while most other states do soft credit checks, but its impact isn't always consistent.

However, there are other discounts that you can make yourself eligible for, such as having AAA roadside assistance (which GMAC and certain divisions of Progressive offer discounts for in some states, though you have to have been a member for a minimum of 30 days, so you can't just buy it that same day), banking with certain establishments (specific credit unions and/or banks), multi-policy discounts (which might be a headache for some people but you can just get a renters insurance policy, which would satisfy having two policies with some companies while not costing much extra but still overall saving you money), etc. However, I think that the anti-theft discount (usually when you having a homing device of some sort, like Lo-Jack) is overrated and usually hardly makes a dent. But obviously if you already have it, then ask your insurance agent if that discount is available.

None, as far as I know, and it seems like everyone else who has mentioned their rates/quotes have had quotes done manually rather than having used real BRZ rates underwritten and set by the company.

Ive had 11 tickets total in the past 7 years, along with 4 suspensions across two states. I was a very dumb kid (some say I still am :bellyroll: ). Luckily the last ticket on my record is coming off in June (damn you NJ).

I'm paying a fortune for my G8 right now living in NY. $1750 every 6 months. I had 1 accident (not my fault) and 2 speeding tickets (the last one was 4 years ago). I
Turn 25 on May 17th I'll wait for a quote until then.

Doesn't Subaru have their own insurance program? I hear something about it all the time when I call SOA for my VIN.

I'm not sure about that, though my guess is that they themselves don't insure it (as it's not a good idea, especially over the past ten years where Subaru had more of a sporty image, which attracts drivers who are statistically more likely to be involved in accidents) but have some association deal with a certain company where you don't get special rates, but having a Subaru might get you an association discount equivalent to some other discounts that may already exist. So it's a little misleading.

For example, BMW has a special insurance program too through Liberty Mutual, which I think I read on their site. I don't sell Liberty Mutual, but I do sell Safeco, who is owned by Liberty Mutual and has similar programs, and even though there is not a discount for being a BMW owner (as that association discount might be specific to Liberty Mutual), I did a quote for myself through both, and I remember their discount being the same as what I got for being a college graduate. It just replaces that discount, though of course you don't know that since your paperwork would just list off all of the discounts that the agent clicked on, though certain ones can't be stacked.

I think I vaguely recall the Subaru phone line saying something about Liberty Mutual as well.

Yeah, that Subaru deal with Liberty Mutual is pretty much the same thing that BMW does. Basically you are getting an association discount (which they listed as 10%) but it is likely something where it won't stack on top of other association discounts, assuming that their policies and discounts are set up like Safeco's (which they probably are, since they're part of the same insurance group while offering a lot of the same coverages). To elaborate on that, there are certain discounts that you CAN combine... auto/home will get you the multi-policy discount, which you can get with being a highly skilled/educated worker (based on your level of education and/or your occupation). For example, when I've done quotes, there is a 10% discount for being a four-year college graduate (or better) or a 10-15% discount for having a specific occupation... but it's either one or the other, and you can't combine those. I assume that the Subaru "discount" is just getting you that discount that you probably wouldn't be able to stack on top of other association/education/occupation discounts.

Reading that site, there were a few things I wanted to elaborate on, being an appointed Safeco (part of Liberty Mutual) agent and recognizing a lot of their coverages:

Quote:

Genuine Subaru Replacement Parts on Repairs — factory-tested for accurate stamping, proper fit and superior rust protection to make sure your Subaru stays a Subaru.

This is something that you can get for any car on their policies -- it's called the OEM coverage endorsement. It's not always necessary, but it's a good idea to ensure that you get the right parts, which is a big deal when your car has nicer parts or factory upgrades from what is standard. I think it adds 10% on top of whatever your physical damage coverage (comprehensive and collision together) cost.

Quote:

New Car Total Loss Replacement — if your new Subaru is totaled in the first two years of ownership, and within the first 30,000 miles, you'll get a brand new Subaru.

This is another coverage that you can get for any car on their policies, as long as it's a brand new car and you are the first titled owner of the vehicle.

Quote:

24-Hour Roadside Assistance — keeping you on the road, anywhere in the United States and Canada.

Another coverage available on any of their policies. It's actually really cheap, and even if you already have AAA or something, you should still get it, especially if you end up using all of your towing privileges. It's usually a flat rate, and on my policy, it was only an additional $6.50 to have this for the entire year... which is barely more than 50 cents each month. It's a steal.

This might be part of the above coverage, since it's towing/roadside.

Quote:

Bicycle Replacement — if your bicycle is stolen from your Subaru, we'll pay for the loss of the bicycle as part of your Subaru Advantage Insurance home coverage - and your deductible will be waived.

This one sounds a little new, but I'm curious about the fine print. When they say "Subaru Advantage Insurance home coverage," I'm guessing that they may want to also get your home insurance policy as well, since stolen personal property such as bikes is generally a home/renters insurance claim, regardless of whether it's stolen out of your house or from your car. But it's cool that they waive the deductible, but again, the footnote said that this isn't available in all states, so maybe it's limited to only a few, whereas some of the other coverages do say that they are not available in specific states.

Quote:

Guaranteed Rates for a full 12 months not six — so your savings can really add up.

That is the case as long as your policy is eligible for their preferred program, which is based on certain rating factors, particularly your driving history. If you have more than a certain number of incidents within a given timeframe, that may put you in either their standard or non-standard program, which restricts you to six-month policies, which isn't always a bad thing, but it may not be what some people want. Also, some states just don't offer it or require you to have certain coverages to get the 12-month policy.

But again, they're a good company -- it's nothing against them, just clarifying it a bit because it's really just an advertising/marketing campaign, not so much them reducing rates just for Subaru owners, even though that's what it sounds like.

Additional $258.50 for six months for me. Not every month, $258.50 is for the entire six months on top of my current premium for my other cars.

I just got a speeding ticket on Friday. Looking forward to crazy premiums on my new, owned by an under25 year old male sports car.

Ouch. Though I always aim to drive right at the speed limit, I have 6 years to go before I'm 25. Hope driving won't be too much of a financial burden for you.

If it does go to my license, pending a court appearance, it will be the only point on my license so I hope the change in my premiums isn't too drastic. Gotta pay to play, maybe I'll slow down this time.

I'd recommend doing whatever you can to get that off your record before you buy the car. Maybe you could try locking in your insurance now before the ticket is official.

I got a speeding ticket a few years ago, it was like $75 bucks, big deal, I just paid it. 6 months later I was shopping for insurance, that one damn ticket raised my premiums by like $500 a year... and wouldn't come off for 3 years of clean driving. It would have easily been better to hire a lawyer and/or take driving school.

It's kinda rediculous how insurance companies work, if I totaled a car into a school bus it would basically affect my premiums the same as a 13 mph speeding ticket.

I'm fully aware and intend to do so; I've fought every ticket I've ever gotten. State Troopers always show up to court though. I'm hoping the judge will just let me pay double the fine instead of assessing points.

Wait, so you will be adding this to your parents policy then I'm assuming?

If so that explains the number, otherwise that number is shockingly low for a 20 year old.

Uhmm, so why exactly one should get it if he/she already has AAA, keeping in mind that new Subarus come with roadside assistance included? Sound like 100% pure profit for the insurance.

It's weird, it's my policy but we all use the same company. It's not under my parents but they give us discounts because we have so many with them

Less than $7 over the course of a year is hardly profit. Your average person could care less about the 54 cents a month.

Besides, not everyone gets it anyway, so it's not forced upon anyone. It is an optional coverage. Also, even if you already have AAA, if you're the type of person who is prone to misfortune, this might be a good idea. A client/friend of mine who bought a policy from me didn't want it since she already had AAA, but she said that it wasn't a big deal, so she left it on. And you know what ended up happening? It saved her money, because she's a bit on the ditzy side and has locked herself out of her car many times to the point where all of her free lockout services through AAA had already been used up during that term, so the $6.50 added to her policy made her day a lot easier. And at $6.50 over the course of a year, ONE use of that already means that they lost money on you.

A lot of new cars alread come with it (which you can also view as pure profit since most people don't use it or even know about it), but the roadside assistance plan through your insurance company is a good alternative if you are buying a car that doesn't come with roadside assistance, whether it's because it's used or that manufacturer just doesn't offer it.

But again, if you do have it and you're not likely to use it anyway (whether it's because you have AAA and/or roadside from the manufacturer or because you aren't likely to lock yourself out), then stick it to the insurance companies and keep your money and buy an extra box of Tic-Tacs every month so you can say that you don't want insurance companies to profit.

By the way, insurance companies not profiting (which happens more often than you think, though most people don't realize it or even think it is possible) means that rates go up.

They are either using all of the policy numbers (as an insured may be on the different policies, even if they are not the first named insured) to do that, or if it's a company like Progressive, their systems may detect that automatically and apply the discount anyway since there may be multiple policies within the same household.

100% useless on a new BRZ then.

Yeah, so just be sure to not add it onto your policy then. Save yourself a cool ~$10 over twelve months.

If you want to promote products that are useless to most people here - I suggest you contact site administrators, get a 'vendor' status and continue your sales pitches in proper subforum.