Clutch peddle loud squeak
 

Cable would be my first guess, it may have stretched a bit or something. Can you start it in gear with your foot on the clutch?

Welcome to the forum. Terrible guess.

Using Google translate, it seems this article might be relevant: "Clutch release bearing abnormal noise".

http://ameblo.jp/zn6-86-fa20/entry-12164068390.html
https://translate.google.com/transla...-text=&act=url

This is interesting - will have to try this out.

Didn't realize you can remove that metal part of the transmission.

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to give my success story on this.

My clutch began squeaking maybe 5,000 miles ago. I now have 41,000 on my car. It was quiet, but then ended up being super loud, just like in the video of the original poster and probably what most of you are experiencing. Took my car in and explained how others were having the same issue as myself. They seemed to be a little hesitant at first, as the sound somehow stopped squeaking after we dropped it off. We mentioned the clutch fork and throw out bearing, etc. Ended up having the transmission replaced under warranty. My car was in the shop for less than a week. I have the paper with everything replaced on it. Squeak is gone, and my clutch feels like new. Only thing I paid for was the clutch plate, but I didn't have an issue as I saw their receipt after everything was said and done. :0

I went in the dealership expecting to be told it was "normal" but I am very pleased with everyone there.

If anyone has any questions, message me and hopefully I can help. This is pretty much my second post here as I have been lurking around hehe.

@heatherger which dealership did you go to? Can you pm me?

Hwy sony. Sorry to bting up old thread.

When u had ur squeak sound.. was ur clutch felt crunchy at the end of the trave as well?

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Better to necro a good thread than start a new one. Yes, crunchy at the end of travel is due to the throwout bearing binding on the front cover/snout. I am pulling my transmission today and will post photos.

When inspecting/cleaning my spare yesterday, I saw that the snout and the fork pivot were both caked with clutch disk material that had been absorbed by the applied lubricant. The combination had become a gritty abrasive mess.

No, my squeak was just from lack of grease on the tip of the throwout fork where the slave cylinder presses on it. You're supposed to put some grease on there every so often. I use High Tempurature bearing grease from Lucas Oil and just put it on whenever it starts squeaking.

I got call from Dealership today and saying that my tranny need to be parted out in order to find out exact cause and must send to HQ for approval. If HQ deny on warranty (my b2b warrany expired period wise 2 month ago but only driven 38,000 km) ill have to pay off the diagnose and all the fee which they quoted replacing bearing would be 600+ tax. Idk what to do at the moment.

Let me hear from you guys if anyone had similar situation.

Thanks in advance

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I forgot exactly how much, but I was first told I had to pay hundreds of dollars out of pocket just for the diagnosis even when I still had bumper to bumper warranty. I brought it to another location and it was covered under warranty without any issue. Same dealer but different location. So, it pretty much differed on the specific persons I talked to when I dropped off the car.

Is your car just making the noise and still driveable? I drove mine with the noise for 1 year, 10k miles before I got it fixed. If yours is just the noise and nothing else, then you should try another dealer.

Edit: I said if it's just the noise, but I also had a little bit of crunchy feel at the end of the travel as well.

Any update? What did you find?

I'll post up good pics tonight. Complete breakdown of the oem lube. Separation, caking, drop, all of it. Dunno what they used or if the #2 Red will fare any better. We'll see over time.

Bottom line - get in there and clean it all up before all the parts wear even more. It's a gritty mess.

Did you removed slave cylinder then sprayed white lithium grease through boot inside tranny?
I put some of Red Tacky #2 grease in there but no luck.(w/o removing the slave cylinder)


Thanks

I'll eagerly await your analysis. For the time being, my squeak is intermittent and rare enough that I wasn't going to fuss too much with it.

I guess what I'm getting at is, scare me. :thumbsup:

I'm still confused. I have this issue. Same as OP. Only happens after the car has been driven for a bit (so clearly something needs to warm up) and it's just a squeak at the bottom travel of the pedal. There is a bit of "crunchiness" in the pedal, but it just matches the creak, as if it just isn't traveling smoothly because something isn't properly lubricated.

It seems for all the world like it is just a lack of lubrication somewhere, and yet tons of people in this thread have had entire clutch assemblies replaced, or throwout bearings replaced. Which is it?!?! Once the car is warmed up, it will make the same noise whether the car is on or off. That makes me thing it isn't the bearing, but what do I know...?

Ive confirmed that it is lack of grease in clutch fork pivot point inside tranny.

Imma pull the dust boot off and spray whitr lithium grease follwoing weekend.

Will be updating the result!

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All the lube had melted/separated/hardened and where there was sliding contact, mixed with the friction disk material

full size image
http://i.imgur.com/whwTVMSl.jpg





You can see how the lube just melted (dropped) It's sticky like tar.

full size image
http://i.imgur.com/9CiuCTKl.jpg

The bearing itself is in perfect condition; buttery smooth - zero noise.
full size image
http://i.imgur.com/JKyZP1Ml.jpg

You're welcome to come up and check it out for yourself. I haven't touched the original parts. They shipped the fork and TOB with the spare trans so that's what I'm running now.

TOB failure is a real thing but this creak/squeak has nothing to do with that. All the people that are having them replaced is because the plastic bushing in the center wears down enough to warrant replacement. Now that I've had the trans out I know I can drop it, clean the parts, and reinstall in an afternoon. I'll be doing this annually.

Was it poor grease or something else ? Is it common in cars generally ? A nice "How To" with tips would be awesome as I can see myself doing this but not every year :|

So I guess nothing to worry about for now.

No, it's not common. In fact, it's unacceptable. This is not "wear and tear," it's the consequences of a poor decision. They picked a grease that wasn't up to the task.

If mine doesn't start squeaking again in a year, I'll still get in there to inspect at least once to see how my choice of lube holds up.

I did come up with a couple nice tricks for removing the transmission and I applaud Subaru for keeping serviceability in mind. Of all the drivelines I've done, this one is by far the easiest but it's still a transmission swap. I'm a big guy so my technique involves physically bench-pressing it into place.

Nah. It's not the end of the world.

Hey guys. Im planning to put somr lubrication in clutch fork inside tranny.
Slave xylinder need to be removed in order to spray inside pivot point?



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I kind of wonder if the lithium grease I used cleaned up the grit/tar like lube that you pictured. I know it has some dirt cleaning/grabbing properties.

Nah, just added to the mess. It all cleans up ok.

So since the creak doesn't annoy me too much (yet) would a good idea be to let it go until I get closer to the end of the powertrain warranty, so that I can wait and see if I have throwout bearing issues too, and THEN bring it in and just hopefully have a bunch of stuff replaced in one fell swoop? I only have 32,000 miles at the moment so I've got another year-and-a-half or so before I approach the 60,000 mile mark. I HATE having people work on my car, so the less times I bring it in, the better, lol.

My squeak returned damnit. All dealership did was spray lube in there rather than replacing anything.

I think the only real concern is if the TOB starts to bind on the snout. That's the crunchiness people feel at the bottom of the throw. At that point it's possible to break the clutch fork.

"Nah" two posts in a row does not read well. Nah nah nah nah...

Hmm. The "crunch" I'm feeling is just a lack of perfectly smooth pedal travel that aligns itself with each individual creak. Do you thin that's the TOB binding on something, or just the lack of lubrication causing the fork to slide a bit unevenly. I would assume the latter. The "crunch" doesn't occur when I first start the car, as there is also no creaking noise until it is warmed up.

Remember that the whole arrangement is a huge force multiplier. We haven't seen a rash of broken forks so I'll guess that it's not a problem. The inside diameter of the TOB is some sort of high-density polymer so it would really have to be out of whack before it jammed hard.

What used to be grease is really sticky; more like rosin now. There is definitely some binding. I guess just keep that in mind and be careful if it seems to get worse.

Yeah, I think I'll let it go for now. It isn't causing any drive-ability issues, and the creak isn't that bad. Since this seems to be a common issue, I'd rather let it go as long as possibly before replacing it so that I don't have to deal with fixing it out of warranty as soon. (Though being halfway through my power-train warranty, maybe it makes sense to get it fixed now on the premise that I can get it fixed again right at the 60k mark, lol.

Sorry for popping out old post!
Is ure squeaky ever came back after adjusting the engagement point?
thanks!

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Taking my car in for this issue tomorrow. Hopefully they just use a better grease tomorrow or something simple.

Does your squeak correspond with pedal movement? Does it squeak while the engine is not running?

yes, it squeaks when the engine is off, and doesn't go away when the engine is warm. it sqeaks going in and pulling out.

That's not the pressure plate but it's still a win for you if they will drop the transmission. Hopefully they clean everything in there before lubing the pivots.

It's only been a couple months since I cleaned mine but the clutch is smooth as silk.

I suppose I should update this thread. Brought my car in for the pedal creaking in the latter half of pedal travel (both directions) - most notably after the car had warmed up a bit.

I brought it in (34,500 miles), told them I thought the throw-out bearing was going bad, and they took the car into the shop and poked around, this is the progression of events:

"Sir, it seems like your issue is the clutch. The mechanic thinks you might have a hot spot, which is what could be causing that creak."

"Okay, well can you explain to me how that hot spot causes the same creak sound to occur when the engine is off?"

*service rep goes away; comes back 5 minutes later*

"Yeah, it seems like your throw-out bearing is ALSO going bad. We are ordering new parts."

*I take the car back, and come back a week later to have the work done.*

End result: I received a brand new throw-out bearing, new pressure plate, new flywheel, and new clutch disk. A different mechanic did the work, and told me that the clutch "showed some wear, but was otherwise fine." So sounds like it wasn't the clutch at all, but instead the TOB. The mechanic told me that the throwout bearing going bad had caused the pressure plate fingers to start making noise too? Not entirely sure.

All I know is the clutch feels ENTIRELY different now, and SO much better. It's so much smoother it strikes me just when I get in the car and depress the clutch to start it. Clutch engagement is buttery smooth now, and it just feels WAY better. One issue I had been having was that sometimes when I went to change gears, taking it out of gear was a bit rough and "thunky"... almost as if I hadn't entirely disengaged the clutch before yanking it out of gear. I thought I was just being retarded (this is my first manual) but that is gone now, so I think whatever was going on in there was maybe affecting how the clutch engaged (which would explain why it is much smoother now.)

Can anyone theorize and explain exactly what might have been going on in there? One of the reasons I prefer to work on my own car is because I like to understand what was happening.