Its been about 10,000 miles since it started, lol. Car just had the whole clutch assembly replaced and I guess they didn't notice it even though it's pretty noticeable.

I didn't catch your quotes earlier. Yeah, it's *cough* "normal."

Do you know why the noise goes away after the car starts moving? I'm hoping I can get a few more thousand out of it while I look for a shop.

Let me backpedal a bit. As you know, it can be a challenge to form a mental image of an abstract scenario given a short written description. An audio/video clip would help immensely here. Barring that, am I correct that you have observed the following?

1. As of yet there is absolutely no abnormal noise at any time unless your clutch is depressed.

2. When cold, there is an abnormal sound which corresponds to engine speed when you press your clutch pedal.

3. The sound goes away and everything sounds/feels normal after a couple minutes.

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There are a couple different abnormal sounds that can come from down there. One comes from within the worn bearing itself as it rotates. Another more critical one happens when the bearing quits rotating and simply rubs against the pressure plate fingers.

The goal is to decide what kind of sound you are hearing. If the bearing is locking up when you press the clutch, that's no good. You're done now.

If the sound you hear is from something rubbing inside the bearing, you have a little bit of time left. I think a few thousand miles is stretching it.

I'll guess that the bearing is not seizing yet. It seems to be rotating ok when there is no pressure on it and the sound goes away after it heats up. That's already a bad thing. If you want to save the cost of the clutch itself, get in there now. If it is driven at all after the bearing has seized or grenaded, your are in for the whole schmeer and likely stranded somewhere.

Sorry for not providing enough information but I appreciate the reply! I'm going to keep an eye on this for the next week the sounds have been pretty low in volume compared to some of the videos I have watched on youtube with the same issue.

Sounds very very similar to this.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOJAnWEanmk"]FRS - High Pitch Whine - YouTube[/ame]

I remember seeing that one. I believe it turned out to be his alternator. A shorted rectifier diode will sound like that. Notice he had the whine even with his clutch disengaged.

Got my car back from the shop. They lubed up the clutch fork pivot points w/ liquid lube and the squeaks and crunchiness at the end of the travel is gone. If it comes back, then whole tranny has to be dropped according to them. Time to see if it comes back or not...

Oh, I just picked up on this. I was speaking in generalities. Not complaining or grumbling at all. Please, no worries!

On a somewhat related note, n00b question: When they replaced my TOB, flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disk, would they have needed to drain and refill the transmission fluid?

Nope not necessary

Alrighty. I'm coming up on 20k miles since my last replacement, so I guess I'll stick to my schedule.

Welp, it's my newly acquired understanding, that in order to pull the transmission (to get to the clutch etc) they usually pull the tail shaft out of the transmission, which would be less messy if they drained the transmission oil first.

@Toyarzee .... it may not be necessary, if you don't mind transmission oil all over the place when you pull the tail shaft ..... ;)


humfrz

Dang, well alright my bad. I was trying to remember how i changed tob before, then I realized it was a different car and its been too long. Gonna go take some vitamins or something

Yep, back in the day, we (or at least I) would drop the universal joint and leave the tail shaft in the transmission......;)


humfrz