Bolt in Roll cages.
 

Are bolt it roll cages worth it? I don't really know too much about them. I would like to make my car safer once I go forced induction and I seen a picture of a bolt in cage in some magazine and thought it would be interesting to talk about.

How many hp are you looking to go for? Are you going to track your car?

I am in the exact same boat as i look for a bolt in roll bar :(

I talked to battle version but they are not willing to build a set for us anymore as they are moving shops !


Agency power or cusco are the choices i noticed available

Most bolt in cages aren't nhra legal as far as I know.

The Frozen North

cages arent any more safe bolt in or otherwise by themselves.

I wonder if auto power is making one now.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

-No tint allowed on window except factory



Sent from my IBrick

Most "bolt in" cages are also bolt together if memory serves me, pretty sure nhra requires them to be welded in. I think the floor plates must be a 6x6" plate of steel, and if it's bolted it must be sandwich plated.

The Frozen North

So at 99% of all tracks in the US, once they require a cage, it does have to be welded in. At that point you'll also need a 5-point minimum up to date harness (see above on that), and a halon fire extinguisher.

If you're looking for added chassis stiffness for auto-x and track days, yes the cage will definitely help. Cusco makes the cleanest one that I've seen in person (in my opinion). They make 4 point, 5 point, 7 point + cages for our cars. Also the forward points you can get to either go through the dash or around.

At the end of the day, you'll notice a slight difference with a cage, and most will be clean enough to be able to use on a daily basis with someone still in the back seat.