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Eneos sustina oil question!!
Hey guys sorry for too many questions, so I got some sustina 0w20 oil quite pricey actually, and it was too cold to do an old change outside. So I called a local shop and ask if they could do it for me they did it for 18$ with tax. Over priced but whatever, I got 6 quarts of the oil Btw. So they did the change and everything and they said that there was no oil left. The car uses 5.8quarts so wasn't too suspicious. After that I went home checked my dipstick and the oil was barely in the middle of the two holes. And the oil was dripping like it was water. Idk I just feel in the back of my head that they stole my oil and put some cheap stuff in and not enough of it. Anyone know if there's a way to tell?? And anyone uses the same oil can take pictures of their dipstick and let me know if it's that watery?? Thanks in advance!!
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Diy and save the headache and doubts. And 18 is not overpriced
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They did the oil change. They did not charge too much. Your car is fine. Go to bed.
Oh yeah, good choice of oil |
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2) ENEOS is very "watery", you're fine. -alex |
How warm was the car when you checked? Oil was probably sitting up in the heads if it was any less than 10 minutes after shutting the car off.
Check the oil when you get up in the morning on a level surface (maybe before you leave from work if that's flatter) and you might find that extra 1/2 quart. |
^ what he said.
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0w20 is like piss water. Send a UOA analysis out and see if it compares to other samples. If it does not match up go to your lawyer, send the shop a letter demanding 100k worth of damages and lifetime warranty, models to pose outside your car in public 5 days a week and male massages.
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I love all of these comments that say that Eneos Sustina 0W-20 is thin. All 20 grade oils are between 5.6 and 9.2 centistokes at 100C! You guys can tell the difference between a 20 grade that's 7 centisokes at 100C and one that is maybe 8 centistokes at 100C? Impressive!:clap: Don't burn your fingers! :D
OP - If you really want to know, do a used virgin/oil analysis as was mentioned. It's best to take a used sample hot from the dipstick tube so you don't lose too much oil. Send in a used and unused sample to two different labs and compare the results between the used and unused samples. If the oil additive levels are similar, there's a good chance that they used your oil. -Dennis |
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I hope that you will trust that when I state that I can tell the differences between certain oils that you may or may not care for, that I am simply stating the truth from personal experience and not trying to impress you. There is lots of talk about how thin you can go and about different base stocks. This is where the discussion gets interesting. I have rubbed both Sustina 0W20 and Red Line 0W5 racing oils between my fingers and can feel the difference. There are reasons why both group3+ and high ester oils are good choices. This is where motor oil discussions should go. Thanks. |
Now that Sopus will be offering Group3+ oils that are shear stable and run clean, at a reasonable price, it might be a favorable choice over high ester oils. Too much ester in oil can cause seal and gasket failures. A super thin, high quality group3+ oil is the best choice, I say. There is no lag. Just monitor the flashpoint out of concerns over potential thinning caused by fuel dilution.
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:threadjacked::offtopic:
Agreed on the SOPUS Group III+ Gas To Liquid base stock Pennzoil oils (really more like Group V). NOACK volatility on some of these oils is even better than Red Line (the 5W-20 is 5%) and these volatility results are less than half of what is currently allowed by API (maxiumum of 15%). Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus technology is slowly starting to pop up in stores and Pennzoil will be doing a full launch early spring. Any current Pennzoil Ultra that is API SN is also made with GTL base stocks (although no 0W-20 is available in the current Ultra). -Dennis |
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