My car on stock brakes with Dunlop ZII's couldn't engage ABS anymore when the tires were warm and I could overheat the pads badly in a hurry, switching to better fluid (ATE Super Blue) and pads (Ferodo DS2500) and haven't overheated the pads since, and can easily engage ABS.

It all depends on your individual needs.

100% agreed! I know that if I were to hand my car over to Mike he'd overheat the pads no problem :D

Just another addition to what I said above, if you compare 100% stock brakes to a typical BBK on sticky tires you will see a decrease in stopping distance, BUT that's because the BBK comes with better pads. If you were to simply put better pads in the stock calipers you'd see the same results.

A BBK with thicker rotors will help dissipate heat so the brakes don't hold as much heat, but that only helps prevent fade, not reduce stopping distance.

You can add the 17x8 +42 TC105N - I measured using your Sprint kit template when I was fitting the AP Formula kit.

Hmmm that's supposed to be on the list... we test fit that wheel!

My favorite BBK is your face - so ugly it could tear the asphalt apart!

To add to this, if you're not on the verge of hitting ABS, then you can brake harder than you currently are. The primary purpose of higher temperature pads and/or a big brake kit is to allow you to sustain this level of braking for longer periods without brake performance degradation.

I have your Sprint kit. You can add OZ Ultraleggeras to your list (no spacers needed).

- I run the RPF1 17x8 +45 on the track, without issues.
- I run the OZ Ultraleggera 17x8 +48 on the street, without issues (lots of clearance).

Done that too many times in other cars. It is something that's good to learn and take care of early to help minimize the "oh shit" moments ;)

Thanks for the info in this thread everyone. Helps for other people besides OP I'm sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Confused why? You're going a LOT faster, so obviously you must get on the brakes much sooner in order to decelerate to your corner entry speed, which hasn't changed!

I'm confused because some people recommend getting a bbk, and some are against it and say just get better pads and fluid. Hope that clears things up.

Depends on an individuals needs. Some drivers are extremely efficient with their brake usage and can get by just fine with OEM gear with upgraded pads/fluid. Some drivers run 10-15 minute sessions and can use the OEM gear with upgraded pads/fluid. Some drivers do 60 minute sessions and delaminate the OEM rotors after 45 minutes.. oops! ;)

There are other BBK benefits (weight savings, consumables [wear rate and cost in some areas], feel/modulation, etc) also that aren't directly related to their primary purpose (additional thermal capacity and increased/more efficient heat removal - although consumables wear rate is affected by that also).

As an example of what these brakes can do, I faded the hell out of XP10s, ATE Super blue (both glazed the pads and boiled fluid) at sebring with the OEM gear. With the AP sprint kit (and AP 600 fluid/CL RC6E pads) I tried to destroy them braking at the absolute last possible spot for a 30 minute session and only cracked a rotor. And that was because I didn't let it cool down, I parked it with smoking rotors and jumped in the race car and went back out. If I let them cool down they would have been fine.

If you track the car at all, you and your FI car will be happy with a good BBK like the AP kit. :)

If it's strictly a street car, you'd be okay with just a pad upgrade.

- Andy

Thanks for helping out guys!