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Blizzak LM-25s are disapoointing
Wanted to try out the snow tires. I have a 150' drieway, uphill into a culdesac, then a slight uphill about another 150' to the stop sign. I made it to the top of the driveway, did a donut in the culdesac, then got stuck, no movement, just burning the tires. I was able to reverse back to the driveway and down the driveway back into the garage. But I was really hoping these tires would be able to handle an inch of snow and a slight incline. Oh well. Maybe I need to throw some weight in the trunk.
http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/...ps99bfctqw.jpg http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/...psdnhh2afw.jpg |
That was the most thorough tire test I've ever read.
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I'm glad you enjoyed it.
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Sounds like driver error, not the tires.
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Considering I did fine in an inch of snow last year on my WS3D, I'm also inclined to believe driver error. That said, it's not hard to high-center a car with all of 4" of ground clearance. |
Glad mine is not my daily ride. It's staying put in the garage until the white death is gone.
I've never driven a RWD car that was worth a flyin' fuck in snow, no matter what tires you put on it. You want to get around in snow in a RWD vehicle? Put on real chains and load the ass end with weight. You don't want to do either in a Subion. I see you have the typical Mt Airy topography. You should see mine. 235' and the last 40' are steeeeeep. Then a long steep climb out of the neighborhood. The reason I have an Outback and a 4wd Ranger. |
My car is great in the snow with my winter tires on. Tires and driving correctly allow our car to conquer pretty much anything where ground clearance isnt an issue.
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My stockers did better than that. That's kinda sad.
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I would do the following
1. Check Tire pressure ensuring you are at the best possible PSI, not under inflated or over 2. Throw weight in the back (at minimum 50lbs if not 100lbs) 3.Make sure your tapping your throttle allowing the snow to scoop underthe tire on the tread |
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I drove through the recent storm in Ohio for 3 hours with no real issues and I have snowsports on, not even full snow tires.
I think that the issue is that you are 1. going uphill, 2. only have 1" of snow, 3. possibly driving normally? Not many snow tires do well in 1" of snow on an uphill. There is enough snow to make the road greasy but not enough to actually use any of the great tread that you have. Take those same tires out in 4-5" of snow, or some hard pack and the difference will be night and day. You also have to drastically change your driving style in the snow. Burning the tires indicates that you had the traction control off, or in sport? Perhaps you did that after you lost traction with all the aids on? I wouldn't be too disappointed. I think you actually performed the hardest test possible with these tires, then added RWD to the mix. I've got a lot of winter/winter tire driving experience and I'm not at all surprised by the results nor would I view it as an indication of the tire's worthiness in snow (not slick) conditions. |
My Blizzaks brake better on slush and snow than they do on dry pavement...
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I had to move my car to get 3M done when I first bought it last winter. ~3/4" of snow on the roads and made it across the city just fine on the OEM primacy tires.
It's all about being careful, being smooth with the gas, knowing when to let off and when to give it a bit more, and most of all keep momentum. Blizzaks themselves should get around awesome, much better than the cheaper winters I threw on mine after. Are they new ones? If they're worn down that'd be the problem. The other thing is you mentioned being stuck and just burning tires. You shouldn't really ever be spinning your tires. As soon as you break traction you need less power not more. |
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