Official FA20CLUB Turbo Kit FAQ Discussion
 

We decided to finally create a specific thread for all the inquiries we get daily regarding the plethora of current options for our turbo kits. Most of our current customers have little if any previous forced induction experience. This Thread should help shed some light on the detailed options you guys have to choose from when considering our turbo kits.

Turbo Selection:

T3/T4:
This particular line from Garrett's stable is based on older but still very productive non the less. These turbos along you to get a base kit with journal bearing turbo. When considering these turbos there are a few things to consider. While you can run up to about 20 psi on these anything above an beyond that boost level the bushing inside the turbo isnt well suited to sustain the thrust load. What this means is youll end up stressing the support system for your turbos shaft. But dont worry we have proven that these turbos as well capable of making great power below those boost levels.

50 Trim:
This turbo is the smallest compressor wheel in the lineup. This will allow for faster spool times considering the reduced size. The trade of is you will most likely be required to run a couple more pounds of boost to make similar numbers to the larger members in the T3/T4 family. Since we use them with the Stage 3 turbine wheel you can expect roughly boost to start to build around the 3200rpm with light throttle application. We testing these with boost targets of 10 psi which were achieved at about 3600rpms.

57 Trim:
This is the selection we generally recommend for most Automatic transmission cars. From our experience to date this seems to be well suited for the At cars even though we have made more power overall with the 60 trim. Reason being is this works great with a bit more overall TQ. Since the At cars dont actually have much delay during shift this makes for a smooth acceleration rate. The only down side we have come across is around the 400hp mark you will be approaching the TQ limits on the factory clutch packs in the transmission.

60 Trim:
This turbo has been reborn and brought back from the dead. This was our original choice for these kits. With some extensive testing we have Been able to 480whp@20psi. So 500whp is very attainable on this engine with Race fuel or E85. These turbos show peak spool rpms 10psi@3800rpms & 16psi@4200rpms. No slouch here.

GT28
There are a few options for these available. You can go with the traditional GT2871 or the next generation GTX products. The difference is going to be when you decide to turn the boost up on them. When higher boost levels are run you will notice the GTX variants will yield a bit more power. There are also going to differences in IAT's at the higher boost levels. The GTX will keep your temp lower in the charge stream when running above 14-15psi. The GTX will also yield more usable power while doing so. What youll notice with them is that they willcarry higher back pressure. You can use either the .63 AR of the .82 AR. We recommend the .82 on this platform. Youll free up the top end. Some might try to tell you these things pull to redline but what they do is hold boost up there not power band. What you run into is a turbo that has a turbine wheel thats on the small side for this motors rpm window.

GT30
This is honestly our turbo of choice outside the T3/T4 family. Its best suited with enough blade surface a to minimize back pressure in comparison to the smaller GT28. The GTX variant is well balanced and is proven to make 500whp on our Stage 1.5 kit. This was done with the .63 AR since we didnt need the extra flow with a larger sized turbine wheel compared to the GT28. expect spool times to drop a bit on the GTX compared to the normal GT series because of the reduced rotational mass weight on the compressor wheel.

This should give you some decent explanation and recommendations for each of the more popular turbo choices from our kits.

Reserved for Fuel mods

We offer 2 different Header options. Equal length & Unequal length. The main difference will be the audible sound. Because in forced induction form we have seen similar numbers from both kits. I personally prefer the sound of a nice EL manifold but the UEL is available for those who prefer the traditional Suby rumble. Will there be any downside to either,not really.

Why does the UEL cost more: Its a matter of time invested. If you look over the design and the amount of materials used you can see it take more parts and time to construct the UEL header.

Can I upgrade from your header to the Turbo Kit: Yes. We offer a credit back for those who already own our headers. Please contact us to make the upgrade. This allows you to run our header in NA form then upgrade to our turbo kit when you are ready.

We will post sound clips of both headers later this week. Or you can browse our YouTube channel for clips of the EL header.

MAP Sensor:
As far as the pressure sensor goes it was originally used for Atmospheric compensation tables, but in forced induction trim it has been repurposed. Originally used primarily for logging boost levels above the stock limits. What we soon came to realize is that it is necessary for proper control of the fuel system mainly the DI side. Without it you cant command the proper amount of fuel since you cant see the actual manifold pressure reading in the plenum above the factory setting on the oem MAP sensor.

Choosing the MAP Sensor Size:
While some tuners prefer to use one specific size of sensor be it 2.5, 3 or even 4 BAR versions. Some have their personal preference based on their own back ground. We personally have scaled and tuned all 3 variants. We have noticed a minute variance in them but a few adjustments to the scalar seemed to have sorted that out. We have come across the cheap eBay sensors as well and decided against using them. Reason being is the QC on them doesnt seem to match up to the level found in the OMNI units. Some of these when tested back to back displayed as much as a 5-10% variation while just measure against atmospheric pressure. What this will lead to is inaccurate tune calibrations based on your manifold pressure.

Boost Controllers:
Coming Soon

When this is complete it is going to be very useful! Thank you for doing this! sub'd

does your new tuner kit that sells for 4199.99 still need to have a fitting welded into the oil pan?

Awesome info, Do you have any experience with the Ball Bearing T3/T4 options?

Honestly no. At the additional cost you would be in the ball park of the GT series.

That's what I was thinking too, just saw them on some sites so I figured I would ask.

Official FA20CLUB Turbo Kit FAQ Discussion
 

@FA20Club.com thank you so much for this thread it explains a lot of the why and really helped me pick which turbo setup I will be getting. Y'all also bring the best price out there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

youre welcome guys

Thanks for the writeup Toni, Pleasure getting to meet you and bullshit with you last weekend (Victor)

Ya thanks for this! Clearing up the air so everyone understands!!!