Hey Sam,

To flash our tune on your vehicle, a license must be tied to the ECU. In essence, you'll need a cable, license, and the map itself. When we release updates to the tune for all current customers, they are free. You are correct in that it is customization to individual's specific needs that we charge for based off of time.

Sincerely,


Delicious Tuning

Sweet. Thanks.

@malave7567:

Please get a new dyno run in, after you have correctly(lol ;)) reflashed your car with the NA Stage2 tune and share on here please :)

...and also try/ask to get your dyno shop for the "corrected" dyno numbers/graph.

We'd all appreciate it (well, at least I know I would, hehe)

I don't like how it is implied that I can't follow instructions on this thread even though I have yet to send any files to anyone because an email wasn't provided, so...

On the CD, there is a folder labeled stock tunes (or something similar) and then a folder with my name and vehicle year and model and transmission type, and in that folder with my name is only one tune, as opposed to the stock tunes folder that appears to have all the applicable stock tunes for the various year, model, transmission type. I have flashed my car twice now and with the one tune in the folder with my name, as per instructions and the instructions video (plus I'm not computer illiterate), and then worked with Bill to make sure my launch control and auto-blip work (and they do), and my maps can switch from 1-4 using the stalk.

Zach, are you saying that there should have been two tunes in that folder with my name? Instead of just one? Again, I never flashed any of the tunes in the stock tunes folder. I'm sorry if you and Bill weren't exactly on the same page, because I never have gotten the chance to send him anything yet. All I've been told is send to his email, which I guess I will have to look up on your website.

That said, once everything is sorted out, I will definitely want to re-run my car on the Dyno, but it's too bad that I would need to wait for another time when I can drive an hour out of town, and pay again for more Dyno time. Can't leave work early every day.

I didn't mean to imply you didn't know how to follow instructions...sorry. I just meant it's a simple mistake that could have easily been done by myself or anyone really. And, in your case as you've described, it sounds like you actually did the right thing perfectly ..so maybe Delicious put the wrong files/tunes into the wrong folder by mistake. No biggie..a simple mistake it sounds like.

Sorry, that wasn't aimed at you specifically. Was just a bit frustrating to come home after a long day, and before sending any files, it's already out on here that I must be the one who messed up. I can't buy the "right" header so I can't tune right either. It's just how it came out. I'm cool now. Just wish it was worked through and investigated before anything was posted.

It's cool. I appreciate your contributions and keep us updated/posted. I really look forward to it (as there haven't been any 3rd party dynos yet). I am very interested in this tune :)

OK, we are going to take a step back and rehash what we are seeing form a tuning perspective and the conditions he ran the dyno in and the correction factors used because people are over looking a some aspects of the dyno plot.

Important Points on the Dyno Plot:
1. We are pretty positive this is one of the tunes in or vehicle. This is not a stock tune from what we can tell. Though like we stated there is no baseline.

1. 200whp is on E85, we have confirmed this on our stock test vehicle. On 91-93 octane we are still dialing in the package with specific headers, and parts package but we are close but this is also done on in optimal conditions.

2. There is NO baseline on this car or any stock car on this dyno in the same conditions, weather related, correction factor related or what gear the pull was done in and therefore hard to say what the true gains are.

3. Intake temps we have noted a variance of about 3-4 horsepower per 10 degree change based off 60 degrees Fahrenheit when testing for a professional race teams. I am sure this would have a decent affect on the power of nearly a 40 degree difference.

4. What gear was the dyno pull performed in? As 5th gear is the optimal gear for dyno'ing on this vehicle. And you could see a few horsepower difference between the 4th and 5th gear.

5. There was no correction factor (STD) used and this would equate to about 8 horsepower to the final number in these conditions. This is the correction factor just about everyone on this forum uses for DynoJets as it reads the highest.

6. Unknown fuel being used, but I would assume it is some sort of 91-93 octane fuel and not E85. Which this of course will have a large impact on overall power.

All in all the heat is a big killer, and I would expect this car to make about 190+ on a 60 degree day with a STD correction factor on 91-93 octane. Yes that is a difference of about 30 horsepower, but heat kills especially on these cars that rev high where velocity and density of air are extremely important to making power.

But when it comes down to it to the owner of the vehicle. Install the stock tune back in your vehicle and drive it and then install our tune back in and I am sure you will notice the difference. A dyno does not tell the whole story without back to back runs of a stock vehicle with stock tune in the same conditions versus a vehicle with all the parts on the vehicle and our tune.

As for the P2096 code.
The customer has a bung extender for the rear O2 and this is causing the P2096 code. With this placed back to a more stock location setup this should remove this check engine light.

Hope that explains everything, and if you have any more questions or concerns you may email or call.

Cheers,
William Knose
Delicious Tuning

By the way, thank you to both of you for in the end being polite and respectable to each other. It is appreciated on our threads.

Thank You,
William Knose
Delicious Tuning

Thank you for a nice reply that has good information. I hope you received my PM with the run files and tune in a dropbox location, if anything, to see how the car was running in this heat. Plus, the car was definitely very hot from a long drive over. With SAE correction, power was 173-174, with STD correction, a couple HP higher. I agree that heat has a huge effect. This was on 93 octane fuel from a Chevron station. I am totally agreeing for re-dynoing on a colder temp day, as I had said. In fact, 190hp on SAE (i prefer SAE to STD and am aware STD is always about 3-4% higher) correction was my goal.

Sorry if I took offense on the way Zach replied, I do apologize if I seemed hostile. Just seemed silly to me to say I tuned the stock file over the stock file and somehow got the other features installed in the process. Just seemed like blame-shifting, and I'm sorry if I read it the wrong way.

edit: And yes, the car feels much smoother on your tune than it felt stock. I like your tune. I hope you don't think that I was attacking your claims when I posted the dyno. I was just trying to provide more info, especially for people around my area or that have similar set-ups.

How are evenings in Texas? I remember when I used to get dynos done back in the day, some shops stay open till the evening. Maybe your shop might have special one-off days where they hang out, work, tune after regular closing times..that'd be a great time to get a re-dyno ;)

There was a mis-communication our end, I apologize for the confusion. I think you should be fairly close to those numbers on 93 octane on a cool night.

Cheers,
William Knose
Delicious Tuning

http://i.imgur.com/GXLC9Pe.png

As temps go down, humidity steadily claims up to 100% or so by the morning hours. When I ride my bike to work in the morning around 6, feels like I can cut the air with a knife, lol. This only applies to southern Texas btw, northern Texas is much more dry usually.

Do you provide tunes that still utilize knock sensors and the other safe guards or is it speed density only??