Short ram Intake/CAI ?
 

Hi!

Tried a search without much success.... sorry if i missed the info.

I saw couple post about TRD/other aftermarket part. Mostly exhaust and cie... But nothing about intake. Maybe i'm wrong but to me short ram or cold air are one of the easiest and best boost for the $ you can have. And it also sound better :thumbup:

Does anyone know if TRD plan to offer a short ram for the FR-S?

Intakes won't do much without a tune. They are mostly for sound when the motor is stock.

An intake can cause a dangerous lean condition too if it's not designed properly. That's why a tune is necessary.

Really? I'm really not a mechanic guru but I did it long ago on my Vibe GT and never had problem. you are probably right that the greatest benifit is the sound but from what i've read i tought that it did help to gain some minor HP...

Thanks... i'll keep that in mind. Maybe that's why TRD seems only to offer suspension and exhaust and no intake?

Depends totally on the car and theres no way to know how this car will react till we get it on the dyno.

Honestly maybe at the most 3-6hp maybe none. The S2ks and 8th gen SIs never got anymore than that without a tune.

Still for the price its not a bad buy, and down the line when you get tuned itll pay off in a large fashion, plus it sounds cool :)

I've actually seen cars lose hp when switching to a CAI or SRI without a tune. I believe that happened with my brother's Altima.

The problem stems from the MAF sensor. The BRZ, like many cars, doesn't use a full MAF housing for the sensor. Instead, it's more like a probe inserted into the airstream. Since a MAF only samples a portion of the incoming air, if you change how the air moves AROUND the MAF, the ECU won't know and you could be slipping extra air past the MAF. This is definitely the case if you make the intake larger, and even changing the air flow (by adding or removing bends) can change how much air the MAF sees.

Now, in daily driving, the ECU is in what's called "Closed Loop". In this mode, it is constantly checking the air/fuel ratio (AFR) with the first O2 sensor. In this way, it can make adjustments on the fly. So for Closed Loop driving, an aftermarket intake is usually isn't so bad.

But when you're driving the car hard, the ECU enters "Open Loop" mode. In this mode, the ECU doesn't double-check its AFRs. Instead, it looks at the MAF and the engine speed, and then refers to a chart (called a Fuel Map) to determine how much fuel to add. Since it isn't double-checking itself, this is where an untuned aftermarket intake can cause issues. And this is exactly where you don't want your AFRs to be off due to extra air slipping past the MAF.

So I wouldn't do any intakes until there is a way to adjust the MAF scaling to match. And even then I'd want to see some logs to make sure removing the Heimholtz (sp?) resonators aren't going to cause issues with the MAF readings.

Thanks for the rather complete explanation Draco-Rex :respekt:

It will make me wait a bit more to see if there are worthy option or just simply enjoy the car without messing with mods ;)

Don't worry about trying to modifying everything under the sun. Get the car first. Drive it and enjoy it. If down the road you feel that its still inadequate, then spend the money on mod that is proven to work.

I have rarely, if ever told someone to search or do some research, I don't mean to be an a$$, but dude... Research LOL. There are a lot of threads like this.
Factory air boxes used TERRIBLE, but they have improved dramatically.The factory air box on this car is good, but it can DEFINITELY be improved. You will even notice some of the restrictions just by looking at it. You will probably gain a good 5-6 whp from a well designed system.
There may not be a "best." There are some that are better in the low end, there are some that are better in the high rpm range, and some are better in the mid range. It all depends on what you want from your system. Dsport had an intake and exhaust showcase. Go on their website, and find the article. They compared most of the air intake systems and exhaust available at the time on the same dyno and car.
A crappy CAI will not be nearly as good as a well-designed short ram. Also, cold air is denser, as you probably know, so you will likely get more power than a short ram, but there is the risk of hydro-lock. Hydro-lock is when water enters the engine, and believe me, that would be BAD. You can blow/ruin the engine like that so if you live in a place where it rains a lot, you are below sea-level, there is poor sewer system, your car is lowered, etc. a CAI is probably not the right system for you. If you live in the desert, you may have to take parts off such as the bumper just to clean the filter which is a pain in the a$$ every few thousand miles. You can still get awesome results from a short-ram or even a K&N drop-in.

There are pretty much four options:
1)K&N drop-in. This is the best bang for the buck. It's much better than stock for several reasons, but the gains were very close throughout the whole power band to a complete intake system. Peak horses is not what's important.
2)Takeda Intake. Dsport had an intake and exhaust showcase where they tested most of the intakes and exhausts that are available for this car. This one was one of the best ones throughout the whole power band.
3) Injen Intake. Again, this one was one of the best ones throughout the whole power band, and it was part of the showcase. Find the article of their website to determine which one is better for your application.
4) Grimspeed. They have put A LOT of R&D into this intake. They still haven't released it. There are four threads that they made on it. Find them.

Note: I actually wasn't biased when writing this. These were all tested on 91-octane one a dyno. I don't know what dyno they used, though. Sure it may not be possible for humans to be completely unbiased, but I probably wouldn't have even considered Injen, Takeda, or Grimspeed had I not read the article or the threads. I probably would've just told you, "Get HKS. HKS is the best for everything!" or something like that. This penned my eyes a little. Again, what i told you is just based on data. Also, the Takeda and Injen were tested on the same car and dyno, so those compare apples to apples. The K&N and Grimspeed PROTOTYPE were tested on the same car and dyno, so those also can be compared apples to apples.
Note 2: If you ask me, Grimspeed, which i hadn't even heard of until about three months ago or something, is probably the best intake for this car. I say this because I read all three threads, and I'm in shock that they have put so much work, answered every question, and posted so much data about their product. Manufacturers usually hide info like that especially when they use a competitor's product to compare.

Note 3: I don't know if any of those three intake systems are CAI's.

Note 4: You may want to check if certain intakes retain the sound tube. A lot of people like listening to their engine, so you may want to take that into account when choosing an intake. Some intakes do change the sound though, so you can still hear the engine without the sound tube. I know that the Injen can do that according to Dsport.

BEST OF LUCK! :p

Why did you feel the need to pull up multiple threads from the past just to post the exact same thing in each one?

because i've noticed that I tend to look at only my thread when trying to find an answer to my question once i've posted it(on other forums). I figured i'd help some people out. I didn't think I was doing something wrong. Forgive me if I did. I was just trying to help some.

it was under similar threads (bottom of the page) and a lot of people had the same questions