😩 fine...

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Google never hurt either. It kinda sucks, the tools mentioned in the thread below mean you should be able to do everything in your garage, even with hand tools the only special things I needed was a spare jackstand and a vice meant I could pull the studs through with hand tools instead of an impact driver but getting them pressed in the right way is easier.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21563

You need to remove the rear hub to install the long studs, I think you might be able to do the short studs with the hub in place, kinda sucks but not impossible to do.

Damn, talk about a blast from the past!

Let me tell ya! I started using anti seize and I never broke a lug stud again! And then I got Muteki SR48s after I got my wheels, and those haven't given me an issue either (I install them without Anti-Seize).

As far as replacing them goes, I've done it on both front and rear in my driveway without removing the hub. As long as it's the stock stud, you shouldn't have an issue. I have been planning on installing ARP Extendeds, but I've had good luck with the stocks+Mutekis, so I haven't bothered.

I never have this problem with mines.

Never had any problem with studs on my brz. I use anti seize on my lug nuts too, but not every time I remove my wheels and I only use a very small dab of it. I use anti seize coz during winter snow time, lugs gets rusty from all the salt they use here in Canada and its makes tire change just a little easy.

Stripped my driver's side front wheel stud the other day as well. PITA to deal with. I may change over to ARP studs in the near future when time permits.

1 Are you running a aftermarket wheel and are they hub centric? Actually measure the hub and wheel, I have seen wheels millimeters off.


2 Are your lug nuts open ended?


3 Do you torque in a star pattern?


4 Are any lug nuts loose or rusted when removed

Try anti seize. coppery stuff not silver one. My father used to grease just the end of it. I dont grease it, I use the anti seize (have been for like 8yrs now). Never had any issues.

I'd like to add that anti-seize is not a lubricant; its an abrasive.

So all of that BS above about lubricated vs. nonlubricated torque in this particular situation means precisely squat.

That said, either use antiseize and avoid breaking studs, or don't and get used to replacing them. I've definitely broken a dry stud removing the lug nut plenty of times, and ive broken a stud with antisieze by removing the lug nut...once...ever.

Never seize has done the trick for me. I broke 4 or 5 before I started using it and haven't broken one since.

I was swapping out wheels once or twice a month because of the autox season.

I've always used a little anti-seize on all of my cars because of the winters, all of my studs are fine.

Sorry I meant silver not copper.

Silver is better because it doesn't harden and it does better in hot temps and resistant to water. Not that it gets wet there but its good to know it wont just disappear and rub off.

From the Owners Manual... I use a battery terminal brush on the stud end and battery terminal end for inside the nut. Clean off with brake cleaner and install dry.

Don't muddle up the issue ...... many have already made up their minds ...... :mad0259:


humfrz