I put anti seize on early on when I got the car and haven't had my lug nuts back out. I always torque them properly when mounting the wheels. YMMV

If you're torquing to 2000 ft-lbs you're yielding the bolts to get clamping force, the never seize won't do anything to get them off.

I work at a Discount Tire Company in Colorado and I recently worked on my car at the shop and our computer states torquing the lugs at 80ftlb... I am not quite sure why the manual says 89. Also the studs on a Subaru/Toyota/Honda are very fragile and really easy to break. I've seen some studs easily breaking off at around 100ftlb. Really the only advise I give to you is that Discount Tire/Americas Tire will bolt on wheel assemblies for free.(Or at the very least my store does!) Oh and also, if a Discount/Americas tire breaks a stud they will call the nearest Brakes Plus and have them put new studs in for you for free!

Aluminum lug nuts? That's nuts.

Btw that's electrolytic corrosion, the opposite of galvanizing. Galvanizing is done to prevent electrolytic corrosion.

Yo WTFFFF I just snapped 2. I have broken 1 lug in 15 years of working on cars. What is the deal with these???

Anti seize works brilliantly to stop them from binding up. ARP studs all around is the best solution though.

wait the torque for this car is 89 ft/lbs? I've been doing it to 80 this whole time lol

Reading the comments about anti seize, bad idea. Id u lube them with anti seize and torque them to 89lbs ur actually going way over.

My family owns an automotive shop for the last 45 years and have always used anti-seize with great success.

I always torque it to about 3-5lbs less than dry torque spec.

I have taken my wheels off of my frs about 10 times with no problems.

I you use any lubricant on wheel studs here in UT you get failed on your safety inspection. The factory torque spec is for dry application. Using any sort of lubricant will cause the lugs to be overtightened.

Not that I'm against using it, but I've never used it and I've never broken a stud. Are these on vehicles using factory wheels? How about aftermarket with or without centric rings? Can't imagine something as cheap as a wheel stud being made of low quality metals from factory.

Yeah, it pisses me off how these cars are so delicate. One of my studs is pealing from the end, and the other got some of its threading shaved. Seriously, wtf! And if you're slightly off on the jack point when lifting it up, the jack point will slightly bend. Smh bro.

The price you pay for cheap cars.

My theory is if you're not careful taking the wheel off the studs the wheel and stud will grind against each other and remove material (probably from the wheel) which will get caught in the threads if it isn't brushed away before the lugs go back on, it's probably the root of the threads getting wrecked.

I've had two strip, never snapped any. Went ahead and replaced them with those bigass ARP studs for the WRX in the hopes that I would never have to replace them again.

How do you change them? You just need to remove the wheel and replace them from the back correct without removing the hub correct? Never really looked black there so Idk. I'm more worried about that bent jack point! I how it doesn't bend this week while it's on the lift when I'm replacing the clutch this week and kill me...

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You should read the WHOLE thread. ;)